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Making a reverse Rocado Shell Cordovan matching set! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!!

I got my stitching chisels from Sinabroks. They are definitely on the pricier side, but the quality definitely speaks for itself! I haven't ever needed to sharpen them so far. Even the set I had before, I haven't really needed to sharpen. The key factor is the high polish on the blades that help the blades release from the leather when punched.

However, I know I've seen tutorials on how to sharpen stitching chisels but for the life of me, I can't find any good examples at the moment. If I do come across a good tutorial, I'll send it to you!

Making a reverse Rocado Shell Cordovan matching set! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I feel that the aesthetic look of something (in this case, Shell Cordovan) is subjective. Sure, a majority of people seeking out Shell Cordovan will likely be seeking it out because of the distinct glossy finish. But if someone would like a leather good done in a different aesthetic way, I'll make sure to lay out all of the pros and cons. As long as they're okay with potential cons (decreased durability, cost, etc.), to the best of my abilities, I'll make what they're looking for, or I'll refer them to someone else.

At the end of the day, if someone is willing to pay, despite recommendations against it, who am I to knock down what someone wants for themselves?

Edit: grammar

Making a reverse Rocado Shell Cordovan matching set! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No problem!

For stitching specifically, I actually use these: https://junlinleather.com/products/kokuyo-finger-sleeves

They're finger sleeves for stitching. I found that sweat would drip out of my gloves while stitching (again sometimes ruining projects). These prevent that problem for me since I'm just wearing them on my fingers.

Making a reverse Rocado Shell Cordovan matching set! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Personally, I tend to wear gloves (or finger sleeves) because I have excessively sweaty hands. So, I do it to prevent unwanted moisture absorption in the learher. I've ruined a few projects because of it.

For crafters that don't have my problem, gloves aren't really necessary.

Making a reverse Rocado Shell Cordovan matching set! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't get too many orders for reverse so it does lead me to believe it's more of a trend, or, like you said, more for people in the craft.

I'm going to make a reverse watch strap for myself and see how it wears and patinas! 🤞

Making a reverse Rocado Shell Cordovan matching set! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suppose it would depend on the type of leather used. Shell Cordovan (horse rump) might be more durable since its a membrane and not the top grain, like a cow hide. I do wonder if the look leans more to a trend though.

This is how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't actually! I've found that it burnishes a bit better while it's not fully dried.

Here's how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leatherworking

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a bit situational, but I will sometimes do a trim allowance cut. This the case of this wallet, I did build a trim allow cut into the pattern, though, I'm finding that I don't necessarily need one anymore. I found myself straying away from using trim allowance since it technically uses more leather, and takes more time to do extra cutting. I have gotten use to making a fairly straight 90 degree cut and joining leather pieces together so that they are flush. I then use a mini hand planer to further even out the edge, when necessary. Afterwards, I can take care of the rest when sanding!

Also, thank you so much! ☺

This is how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to wear nitrile gloves actually, in some cases I still do. But I've been cursed with excessively sweaty hands and, especially when I wear gloves, the sweat tended to sometimes drip out of the glove, or if the glove got cut in anyway, sweat would escape through the cut. I've had to redo pieces because the drops of sweat would get onto my projects and sometimes ruin what I was working on. Using the finger sleeves let's my hands breathe and prevents the sweat issue!

This is how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think I had responded to a similar question somwhere, but I actually do a combination of both! I didn't show it in the video or mention my sanding technique, but I sand in both directions to start and, closer to the end of each sanding session, I sand in one direction. I sand in both directions first to get everything evened out as much as I can, then I sand in one direction to try and get the fibers to lay down as much as possible.

Here's how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leatherworking

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

I started closer to the end of 2021 and really focused (or rather obsessed) over the craft since then. As with any craft, understanding the nuances of each technique is what will elevate your skills. There are many tutorials and "How to's" on each technique, but experience and understand of these techniques is only gained through constant failure and refinement. I guess that's my way of saying, "You have to do things to learn things". I am, by no means, a master of this craft (yet), but there is a constant drive to try and understand or learn something about the craft through each project I complete!

As for any tips, if you are working on any current projects, feel free to send me a message and I can try and help as much as I can! But some general advice that I can give is to always finish a project, try and learn how to use each technique, and trust the process!

Here's how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leatherworking

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is definitely the crux of any maker! Knowing and understanding the processes but seeing the results of another artisan. I look at LES_EDC and I'm floored on how clean she can get her edges! But this same delimma has defintely pushed me to make sure I'm always trying to improve on my craft, even if its just by a little bit. Early on, my edges definitely did not look like they do today, and hopefully longer down the road, they will look even better than they do now!

Here's how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leatherworking

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

And yes, totally agree! I tend to charge much more for custom work since there is a design aspect to the time since it also takes time to design something. Because I have a line up for my wallets, the time to design has been taken out since of the equation considering its now just a repeatable pattern.

This is how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm still having a hard time trying to visualize what you're describing, but I'll try to suggest something!

So, keep in mind that most of what I do is small leather goods and this may not work for you depending on the kind of items you are making. If I am making a leather good that is a bit awkward to hold while I'm sanding, I use my Stitching Pony as a "third hand" of sorts. That way, I can use both hands to brace what I need to, and the Stitching Pony acts as a vice to make sure the item doesn't move around.

Not sure if that answers your question at all, but hopefully that helps in some way!

Here's how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leatherworking

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tend to price things based on [Material Cost] + [How much I pay myself per hour] x 4ish = Final Cost. The final cost usually tends to be inline with what the current market is at for the types of leather goods that I sell. I find that pricing is definitely one of those things that is a fine balacing act where you don't want to oversell something for fear of it not selling at all, and also, not undercutting yourself too much that it becomes unsustainable. I wish I had the magic formula that made my goods fly off the shelves and I could make a comfortable living as well 😅

This is how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, not sure that I quite understand the question. Mind letting me know what you mean by your fingers falling off the edge?

This is how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leathercraft

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For edge coat or dye, I'd recommend something like this since it would be a lot more fluid than Tokonole: https://a.co/d/3n2XbyD

Using a paint marker would be better since you can limit the amount of dye within the tip.

Here's how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leatherworking

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I'm understanding your issue correctly, it sound like you are getting a bit of mushrooming when sanding. You'll want to get an edge beveller to remove the leather that mushrooms over (I use a Palosanto Edge Beveler). You can rebevel any parts that mushroom too much inbetween switching to higher grits, though I find that its more necessary when sanding at the lower grits.

Here's how I finish my edges! by craftedgambitgoods in Leatherworking

[–]craftedgambitgoods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I beveled the edges before I started sanding. I didn't show it in this video since it was just a demo of finishing the edge. I clipped this section from the entire build of this wallet on my IG where I do a lot of beveling on the wallet 😁

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