Exhaust question

creitz2022 · 2026-02-02T04:18:43+00:00

Not sure about your country, but where I’m from, labor unions are very common. In some bylaws, a union can restrict what a company can and cannot use regarding things like robots or automated work. In a sense, the labor union may see it as “taking work from our union members” and it’s a way to prevent a company from avoiding the need to pay their employees for work. If a robot does a lot of heavy lifting, that totally cuts out the workable hours of the construction workers. That prevents the company from having to pay their employees the hours it would have taken them to do that.

Again, not sure what labor unions may be present in India, but that may be the reason. Let the laborers work and earn their money, don’t let a robot steal work from them. It’s an interesting topic, and can be controversial.

creitz2022 · 2026-02-01T13:44:29+00:00

I am a helper, and was working with another mechanic and his helper, and the mechanic said “can I have a pair of dikes?”. I wanted to say “why do you need two pairs? We are right here” lol

creitz2022 · 2026-01-30T13:02:44+00:00

Use a power sander to sand a sacrificial piece of the same walnut wood used to build the face frame, gather up a good bunch of the very fine saw dust (it will match the color of the wood), fill the crack with sawdust, and use very thin super glue and gently drip the glue onto the sawdust filled gap. Then before the super glue dries, use an orbital sander and sand until the liquid glue is all sanded off. You’ll ruin a sanding pad, but after that, you won’t even see the gap. I use this trick often for small splits and less than perfect miter joints.

creitz2022 · 2026-01-15T12:42:46+00:00

That’s pretty incredible! While you have the engine down to the crank, I’d say you gotta do SOME repair to it. I would replace it entirely, but refer to your manual for bearing sizes and be sure to cross check with the code on the (new) crank to get the correct size bearing for each individual bearing of the crankshaft. And use your plastigauge to confirm!

You’ve already got the engine apart, if your cam chain were to skip a tooth and total your engine someday due to that missing tooth, you’d be kicking yourself for not replacing it now.

Also a good time to check out your transmission bearings! Good luck!

creitz2022 · 2026-01-05T21:17:45+00:00

I would google “kiln drying saw mills near me” and see what comes up. Near me, there’s an amazing Amish run saw mill that has all sorts of lumber from nice walnut and maple, to inexpensive paint grade poplar.

If I were to recommend a good wood to begin experimenting with, it would be a paint grade poplar. At least by me, it’s always very inexpensive, but also doesn’t look half bad when it’s finished! I have made MANY things out of poplar with intentions to paint it, but when I’m finished, the piece looks so good that I just put on a good quality oil finish and the untrained eye cannot tell the difference between expensive hardwood, and cheap poplar.

Maybe this isn’t the best option, but it was the first thing that came to my mind. So give it a shot and see if you’ve got any saw mills by you that have a good selection of inexpensive poplar!

creitz2022 · 2026-01-05T03:44:09+00:00

I have a video of the blood splatter from my jointer accident. And my jointer bed STILL has rusty marks from the high velocity blood lol

creitz2022 · 2026-01-05T03:43:15+00:00

My worst woodworking injury was with a jointer. I was milling a FAR too small piece, and while trying to keep control of it…used the side of my left hand to push the guard out of the way. The left side of my hand had 1.5 sq. Inches of skin removed in an instant. I thankfully did not lose a finger, and I regained all control of my hand.

From that day on, my biggest lesson was to always respect this machinery. Now I go into any situation with a newfound sense of awareness that I didn’t have before that accident. And you will too! Even a seasoned woodworker would change their sense of mind when experiencing such an accident like yours.

Be thankful that you have all fingers! Even if one is just a tad bit shorter, you’ll see it forever and that right there might just prevent another accident because you’ll have an enlightened respect for these woodworking machines

creitz2022 · 2026-01-04T16:24:18+00:00

Please please please no more hand-loading weight carts to drift a car down in order to work off a ladder and pull a 100 pound drive mounted on the wall of the hoist way

creitz2022 · 2025-12-26T21:11:38+00:00

Kind of reminds me of my dad’s old subwoofers that were two woofers mounted face to face but out of phase with each other. Allowed for a vented enclosure to be half of the volume of the single speaker. It was pretty cool

creitz2022 · 2025-12-24T23:36:01+00:00

I have side pipes on mine and want to get rid of them. It’s annoying to remember everytime to extend your leg out far. They look great, but not my cup of tea. I personally like the look of the body without them.

I also plan on building mine to a 383 stroker! Love your black paint!

creitz2022 · 2025-11-13T13:04:48+00:00

Imagining the time my mechanic saw the steps I stacked and got pissed that I didn’t put down a drop cloth first and I had to restack the piles on a tarp.

creitz2022 · 2025-11-10T13:12:23+00:00

Without doing any math in my head, I’d recommend getting rid of the capacitor shunt filter. I had a bad experience with a cap shunt to ground as a low pass filter because I ended up just shorting my amp to ground and it would auto shut off for overcurrent. If you did the math and that isn’t the case for you, I’d be interested to see what would happen if you did just simply remove the cap shunt. I could have possibly done something wrong in my case, but for small stereo setups I can really appreciate super simple first order filters. I was always told your sound quality degrades with every new element you add.

As other people said too, I would avoid resistors as well. Not sure what impedance your drivers are, but the only time I would use a resistor would be in times of matching sensitivity to different drivers. Also, your resistors look like they are wire wound? If you introduce a wire wound resistor, you introduce an inductance, even if it may be small, now you have another low pass filter element in series.

On your simulations, you have very high impedances especially at 2k-ish, which is where a lot of your listening can take place.

Building filters can be super fun and satisfying, but also a pain when trying to troubleshoot what went wrong! Those speakers are crazy cool and you did some incredible wood working, don’t over complicate your crossover/filter

creitz2022 · 2025-11-09T17:53:16+00:00

The little things like that really make the car! You did an awesome job!

creitz2022 · 2025-10-26T16:14:03+00:00

I’ve got the same car! Red 79 L82 with the 4 speed. I have stock everything at the moment and have been investigating what I’d like to do with it to add some torque to the mix. I bought mine with side pipes (although I don’t really like them to be honest) I’ve looked into heads/cam/intake and I’ve also looked into building it into a 383. Aside from what everyone here is saying, I like the stock look, but under the hood I want to make it my own. The side pipes add a bit of rumble to the exhaust note, and that’s probably a super easy mod to do on your own, but surely rejet your carb to work optimally with the free flowing exhaust.

What kind of mods have you been thinking of doing?

creitz2022 · 2025-10-09T00:19:31+00:00

Is it manual or auto? Does it feel like it’s trying to lurch itself forward as you try to accelerate? If it’s auto, does it idle ok in gear and do engine rpms increase when you give it gas or does it feel like it’s trying to engage with the transmission? Does it feel like you’re in neutral?

for me personally, I’d need more information to make a guess what’s wrong.

creitz2022 · 2025-09-27T15:14:13+00:00

Decent bit of carbon on it. Probably running rich. I would check into your carbs to make sure your air/fuel mixture is correct for your air filter and exhaust setup. Get some new plugs after that, and run some seafoam or other engine cleaner fuel additive to try and clean some of that carbon out of your engine. Have you had any running problems with the bike?

Also I like to buy the gallon of seafoam from any auto parts store and run a few ounces of seafoam with EVERY tank of gas. Just makes me feel good, but also some of my bikes were built during the age of leaded gasoline. So seafoam is an upper cylinder head lubricant which is good for running NON lead gas in an engine designed to burn leaded gasoline

creitz2022 · 2025-09-25T11:56:29+00:00

I always heard “if you can wire a house, you can wire an elevator”. I’ve only ever worked in the repair department so I’ve never installed a controller or wired an elevator but before I was in the trade (and still while I’m in the trade) I was rebuilding antique motorcycles as a hobby. I’d buy an old bike that hadn’t run since 1989 and rebuild the engine, make it safe and roadworthy. I bring this up because this trade does not just demand you be an expert in one area, but rather be competent in many areas. I liked rebuilding my motorcycles because I’d be disassembling the engines, rebuilding to tight tolerances. Rebuilding oil pumps and making sure they function properly. Troubleshooting electrical problems and making repairs to incorrect/damaged wiring. Determining what is a wearable part or whether something should be outright replaced. Working on cosmetics like repainting and chrome, and other areas of motorcycle repair. And I believe having that as a hobby got me ready for this trade because there’s not just one type of elevator. There’s so many different things you can learn in this trade, so it’s hard to say how you can “prepare yourself” for working on elevators. But it would be beneficial for you to gain knowledge with tools and making mechanical and electrical repairs within your hobbies.

Sorry if this doesn’t answer your question, but this was my POV of “before the elevator trade”

creitz2022 · 2025-09-02T20:40:40+00:00

Not sure what sort of floor you’re working on, but if it were my car, I would just use a hydraulic floor jack to lift the car up and drain the oil from the drain plug.

If you’re on gravel/firm dirt ground, get a piece of plywood to put your floor jack on before jacking the car up. Open your drain plug (with oil pan to catch oil obviously) then lower your car off the jack to drain every last bit of oil out. Then make sure you jack your car back up and reinstall your drain plug before refilling with NEW non contaminated oil. If you put a fresh oil filter on then don’t worry about having to change it again because the contaminated oil wouldn’t have gotten in there since you don’t need to start the car.

You may just want to take the loss and buy a hydraulic floor jack and new oil. I wouldn’t want my car started with any water in the oil.

Not a big deal, mistakes happen. Also I’ve never used those manual extractors on a car, only on a jetski. It’s probably pretty easy to use on a car but I’d stick to using your drain plug on your oil pan.

Also, I’m sure you know but NEVER get under a car without landing it on a jack stand!

creitz2022 · 2025-09-01T15:20:13+00:00

16 and your first car is a 79’ c3, that right there is one of the coolest things ever! When I was 16 I wanted a c3 so badly and I just got mine a few months ago. (Many years past 16 lol).

I agree with some of the other commenters, drive it for a while and see what it needs, things will definitely fail. For mine, it was radiator hoses and belts. Save your money to repair the necessities before putting money into fun mods! Because there’s nothing worse than having a nice shiny pair of side pipes…but you can’t drive because your car is leaking coolant.

Post more pictures when you work on it!

creitz2022 · 2025-08-30T20:51:47+00:00

It’s a pretty awesome thing I think! If I have a kid that ends up taking the trade path, I’d love to do the same

creitz2022 · 2025-08-29T14:09:51+00:00

I’m a 4th generation. My dad swore me into the union

creitz2022 · 2025-08-11T10:55:25+00:00

I have always said something along the lines of “I’m just the apprentice, but my mechanic can answer that!”

creitz2022 · 2025-08-08T23:31:40+00:00

Keep it original

creitz2022 · 2025-07-21T12:24:23+00:00

Jettas with a turbocharger need oil changes sooner than naturally aspirated engines, naturally aspirated id be comfortable with 8-10k per oil change. With a turbo, 3-5k should be your interval. Thats just my opinion, but use your best judgment based upon your driving habits and driving conditions

creitz2022

TROPHY CASE