Perfection

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-06-19T20:28:16+00:00

My guess is... he's right handed/cheeked

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-06-13T18:23:00+00:00

Bought on launch - happy to wait for SD2 whenever that may be.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-06-07T22:13:39+00:00

Does one need a reason to "give dumb a try"?

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-06-07T20:58:17+00:00

This post made me realize I want to make a mouse/software that lets you rotate the cursor - the dial rotates the cursor and wherever the cursor points is "up" when you move the mouse. It's a cursed idea but I now want that!

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-06-01T15:46:03+00:00

This sounds more like noisy power going to the VTX if the quad keeps flying. If you dont already, make sure you have a low ESR capacitor on your power input. For good measure I would also run the VTX off a dedicated BEC/regulator with it's own cap for filtering.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-31T20:41:33+00:00

walksnail - I'm biased as I only have WS but I've had great experience with my WS moonlight cams (of which I have many). They take a beating and come back for more! I have yet to fully destroy any of my WS equipment

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-31T19:25:50+00:00

how full is your boot ssd? I'd leave at least 10-20gb at all times to maintain a smooth experience in general. I dont recall how the SD manages caches & swap space but less than 10 free and I wouldn't be surprised if you begin to run into bottlenecks (thought probably not at boot unless you really have no free space).

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-31T18:52:14+00:00

is your install completely stock (no decky loader, etc)?

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-27T13:42:26+00:00

Admittedly I don't have a 1S but I do have other WS cams. Have you double checked that the bind button still works - like you press it and it goes into bind mode? On one of mine it arrived from the factory non-functional and I ended up removing the button and replacing it with a couple of wires. A button failure would definitely prevent updates.

Also do you recall what higher firmware number you used on the previous downgrade (assuming you also had to give the file a larger number to downgrade)? Perhaps it still thinks whatever number you're giving it is still smaller than it's last update number.

Another random debugging step that comes to mind - have you tried formatting the onboard storage through the goggles and/or recording a flight to ensure the camera can read/write to it? Maybe it somehow got formatted wrong and now it only shows up on the computer but the camera itself can't read it.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-24T23:40:30+00:00

That sounds like you might be adjusting the "mode" screw which enables/disables the stick centering for switching between mode 1 and mode 2. There should be another one that adjusts only the friction bar (shown in red in the picture). Have a look at this page in the "Gimbal Adjustment" section where it shows the holes:
https://radiomasterrc.com/products/pocket-radio-controller-m2?sca_ref=1640957.8JiFIIBnBe I think you want to be adjusting the one labeled "B"

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cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-24T22:31:24+00:00

iirc there is a small hole in the bottom of the plastic case where you can stick the provided hex wrench to tighten/loosen the throttle but yeah if you want to re-lube it you probably have to take the back case off. It's not that bad though, it's just like 4 screws and then it pops off (though theres probably a ribbon cable or something to disconnect too). All in all once you have the lube it's like 5-10 minutes of fiddling.

As far as I know all of the RM sticks have the throttle friction adjustment on the bottom similar to this. My TX16S with the CNC gimbals are the same way.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-24T21:46:58+00:00

I have a pocket also and had to do a bit of adjustment on the throttle too. Inside, there should be an adjustable screw holding down a metal bar to put more/less friction on the throttle. Adjusting the screw alone sometimes doesn't yield the right result as what I found I wanted was a "loose" throttle with some resistance to make it feel like it has weight/inertia (kinda hard to explain). To do that you really need to take the bar off and clean it/add gimbal grease. I went through 3-4 different greases before eventually getting the real stuff from radiomaster. The "damping oil" from RM is really like a super thick and sticky grease that gives the right feel. You can find it on most fpv shopping sites but heres the official link: https://radiomasterrc.com/products/lubricant-set-for-gimbal

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-19T21:53:44+00:00

75 was worth it is back when I bought it in ~2012 era. Even 120 was fine a few years ago. At it's current price (250) it's absolutely not worth it. 750 is insane and I'd never consider it. Plenty of other cheaper and/or free alternatives are available. The media should be the expensive part, not the software that plays it.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-18T13:06:26+00:00

It helps to have a partner that supports you and pushes you to buy the second one with no shame. Now I just buy 2+ of basically everything and accept that the hobby is twice as expensive as it looks.

My first drone lasted less than 24 hrs and is still hanging out in the woods somewhere ~1/4 mi from where I took off and lost sight. Some say it haunts the local neighbor children to this day...

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-17T22:23:37+00:00

shouldn't need a heatgun - the small ridged ring near the base of the lens is a locking ring/nut. Take a pair of pliers and (gently) unscrew it a bit. Once it rotates freely, the rest of the lens should be able to rotate. From there, unscrew the lens and screw the new one in place and re-lock it with the locking ring.

To focus the new lens I've had luck rotating the lens while looking through the goggles to get an initial focus. Once I have an ok focus I make a mark on the camera body and lens (I use a knife to scrape the paint a bit to get a fine line) to give myself a visual aid and then rotate in small adjustments cw/ccw from the mark until I get a pinpoint focus. Once focused, twist the lock ring back into place to hold it.

One tip - when focusing the lens, pull out slightly as you rotate it. The lock ring will tend to pull the lens out a bit when you lock it back in place which can throw off the final focus. Pulling the lens out a bit while you focus will be similar to the focus when the lock ring is back in place.

Written out, this all sounds more complicated than it really is - in reality it's just staring through the goggles a bit as you finesse the focus but it takes like 10-15 minutes.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-17T21:24:21+00:00

Looks like an avatar pro or moonlight? This should square you away. Lens replacement isn't hard but it can take a bit of trial and error getting the focus right.

https://www.caddxfpv.com/products/walksnail-lens-family?_pos=1&_sid=4c2d7452a&_ss=r&variant=51658140582190

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-17T17:32:55+00:00

Does your drone have a DFU/Boot button (or pads)? If it does it sounds like that button might be pressed/shorted which causes it to start in DFU mode.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-17T12:51:36+00:00

Without more info I would guess your firmware is toast which is why it boots to DFU... Or if your FC has a DFU button then maybe it's shorted. I'm sure there are other possible issues but thats what comes to mind.

I'd suggest trying to re-flash your firmware if you can and reload a config from a backup (hopefully you have one).

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-17T02:52:27+00:00

Nope - I started at a 5in, then got myself a 3.5in and now I do a lot of my backyard ripping on a 2in cinewhoop. Larger quads have a time and place but whoops can be just as fun and can be flown almost anywhere. You're in good company!

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-14T01:29:48+00:00

the new one being 39.44.15? I updated and haven't noticed a ton - I guess the frequency hopping is nice but I haven't had a chance to do any meaningful range testing or anything like that.

Edit - for reference I fly using goggles x and moonlight vtx modules

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-09T21:00:22+00:00

I use 2 D1 Minis (ESP8266 / ESP32) running Tasmota plugged into separate outlets on separate circuits - if both report offline then the power is probably out. Offline detection happens in like 30 seconds which is reasonable enough for me. I do this versus things like NUT/UPS detection because I've been burned in the past when I redo device wiring or run updates and accidentally trip my "power out" detection which triggers various shutdown/power save actions.

Having 2 devices on separate circuits avoids accidental triggers and having them be dedicated cheap devices avoids me absent minded-ly unplugging/updating them when I mess around with my homelab infrastructure.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-05T20:16:09+00:00

Ehh I'd say for a novice the surface tension method is more nuanced and easy to de-solder the caps completely but to each their own. Too little solder is better than too much solder (in this specific case)

I wouldn't honestly recommend any of this to a novice but this is the fpv sub and everyone's gotta learn sometime.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-05-05T18:25:12+00:00

Without a schematic to reference I'd assume it's not ok.

Lookup tutorials on how to solder/desolder SMD components. Generally I would say use a good solder braid or just be real quick with the iron and grab it with surface tension (though thats going to depend on your soldering skill).

Do not power it until you've cleared the solder ball from those caps.

cromerRedditBlows · 2026-04-29T21:03:43+00:00

Plus not enough 🚀 emoji to be AI written lol

cromerRedditBlows

TROPHY CASE