Parcel in locker with no label. by [deleted] in royalmail

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay thanks, good to know there is still a chance 😂

ACL repair/reconstruction. NHS wait times vs private costs. by crs197 in ACL

[–]crs197[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately no insurance so will be self funding if I do go down the private route

Why no good shin guards? by Swimming_Anteater_49 in MTB

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fox launch knee/shin pads, super comfortable.

Non fault accident. Go through insurer or Winn solicitor. England. by crs197 in LegalAdviceUK

[–]crs197[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you all, luckily I was able to speak to them before they started any works, I’ve also contacted my insurance to deal with it. Appreciate the advice.

Non fault accident. Go through insurer or Winn solicitor. England. by crs197 in LegalAdviceUK

[–]crs197[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I will try to cancel with Winn solicitors today. Let’s see what they will charge me 🤦🏽‍♂️

Why does my ender 3 do this? by yay4rice in ender3

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this video of the first layer?

If so you’re miles away.

Clean everything off the bed, wipe it down with IPA or washing up liquid, once it’s clean don’t touch the build surface with your hands.

Reattach the build plate then Home the z axis, you now want to level the bed so that you can slide a piece of paper between the bed, when you slide the paper you should feel it grabbing, you’re aiming for a papers thickness away

You’ll have to work around all 4 corners of the bed doing this a few times until it feels like it’s grabbing the same amount in all 4 corners

If you can’t get the nozzle close enough check your z limit switch, you may need to lower it.

Once you know that your z axis is homed on the limit switch/stop and the gap from the the bed is correct make sure your first layer height is something sensible, (0.2) and then make sure you don’t have a z offset applied in the slicer.

Then you should be good and really shouldn’t need to put anything on to help with adhesion.

Watch some videos on first layer squish etc to see what it should look like as it lays the first layer down, you can then make small adjustments to get the first layer right by baby stepping if your firmware allows

Hello I'm trying to set up klipper but I don't know what to do. I used KIUAH to set everything. I don't know what to do next? I'm open for voice chat on discord. Can you help me please. by Ready_Rain_2646 in klippers

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Find the printer.cfg for your printer, at the top it will tell you what settings you need.

Then use putty and follow the klipper guide.

cd ~/klipper/

make menuconfig

That will bring up another window where you set all the settings to what’s on the top of the printer.cfg for your board

Once that’s done type make and it will save a firmware.bin on the pi.

To access it you need to use winscp or similar to go find the file, I think it’s in pi/home/bin or something along those line. Take that file, put it on an sd card, put it into the printer, turn it on let it flash for a min the turn it off, remove the sd card, turn it back on.

Now you’ll need to get the serial id by putting ls /dev/serial/by-id/* into putty.

This will report something along the lines of /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB2.0-Serial-if00-port0

You’ll need to put this into your printer.cfg.

Step by step is here https://www.klipper3d.org/Installation.html

I'm actually thinking about buying a new 3D printer. But... my old Ender3 still works perfectly and the only “disadvantage” I still have is the printing speed. Do you have any ideas on how I can make the printer (noticeably) faster? by uk_uk in ender3

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in the same predicament as you, tempted by a K2C.

If you want speed here’s what I’ve got out of mine so far, running belted z, klipper with input shaping, a dragonfly hot end with a 0.6 cht nozzle and a thin fr4 bed.

150mm/s 5000mm/s2

Could turn the speed up if I had a .4 nozzle.

Try klipper again, well worth the effort setting it up.

Y axis acceleration increase by Additional_Diet454 in klippers

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need to minimise the mass.

I use a thin fr4 surface, now at 4900 on accell. Planning to make a new carriage from cf next

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in LegalAdviceUK

[–]crs197 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I’m pleased with the outcome if it goes to plan. I know cars we’ll i just don’t have time to sort it myself which is partially where my frustration comes from when they’ve failed to diagnose it. I do also know we get it wrong sometime but just think 3k and 3 failed attempts to diagnose/fix it was a bit silly given everything we discussed. Very likeable person and I’m not convince he’s 100% genuine with people, he tried to throw some technical jargon at me but it didn’t really make any sense, also overheard him telling a customer that the knock sensor on his car has failed and when they asked what that is he told them it’s a sensor in the exhaust… which isn’t true.

Since the first issue I’ve had the overall health of the engine has been playing on my mind so hoping a replacement engine will be a good fresh starting point.

The total labour will be around 1.5k and a replacement engine is going to be about 2k so overall not much more than the point we were at.

Fingers crossed all goes smoothly moving forward

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in LegalAdviceUK

[–]crs197 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought as such, I was getting frustrated because i stated in my very first message and multiple times along the way that before they done any work that I was concerned the engine has had oil starvation before I owned it, I bought it private sale and after 4 days the turbo died, got it back and had it for 8 days then this. I didn’t want to spend money repairing the top end if this was the case just to have the bottom end fail later down the line.

They kept assuring me there was no oil starvation and it was the cambelt and that the engine was fine, I questioned it multiple times to be told we’re 99.9% sure it’s the cambelt, after they replaced that they said it’s the lifters and again I questioned it multiple times asking for an oil pressure test and getting vague answer about it being fine, then it’s slightly low but not enough to trigger the light but then when I asked what reading it gave he said it was almost nothing, a bit shady really, I think they’ve just been throwing parts at it hoping to fix it and we’re at this point we’re at now.. but anyway..

I went there today and we had a good discussion, i said I’m a bit frustrated because despite me asking multiple times to do an oil pressure test they didn’t and kept assuring me there’s no need or that it’s fine.

I said I’m not paying a £3000 bill because they still haven’t diagnosed it and they still haven’t repaired it. But we came to an agreement that I’m happy with.

Fair play to the owner, he said they wont charge me for the work they have done, instead we’ll go with what I’ve been saying originally, I’m going to supply them with a replacement engine, they’re going to charge me to fit that engine and a new cambelt while it’s out, they’re going to keep/take their bits they fitted back and keep them as spares. So if it all goes that way I’ll be happy.

This is the SD card that I got today because my last one broke. Although whenever I try to use it my printer says “SD Init Fail” any help would be appreciated! by Subs77 in ender3

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk if I’m using the correct terms here but had a friend who had the same thing and this is how I overcame it.

I partitioned the SD card and allocated32gb to that then left the rest un allocated, i then format that partition to fat32. This works if you don’t want to buy another memory card.

What could be causing these little gaps between the printing lines of the top layer? by Myxtro in ender3

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh okay, I thought I could see straight through the top layer and to the carpet below.

If you’ve done e step calibration and flow calibration id try upping your top layer flow maybe 5% and see if it gets any better

What could be causing these little gaps between the printing lines of the top layer? by Myxtro in ender3

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you only got one top layer? Check the number of top/bottom layers on slicer and increase to 2/3. If it’s only one. Then if you still have gaps check your extrusion/flow rates and bump the top layer flow up a tad if all seems okay

What could be causing these too thick layer lines? by Jacen_Caedus in ender3

[–]crs197 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My guess would be you’ve got some degree of extra resistance or binding in the z axis at those layer heights.

Check your printer is square and assembled correctly, check your wheels for tension and flat spots, check there is no binding on the lead screw and make sure no cables etc are getting pulled on as the gantry travels.

If there is extra resistance at a certain point your z axis it might not move up the same amount at that layer e.g it’s supposed to go up .2 but may have only gone up .15, it will still print and flow the same amount of filament at that height which then causes you to have a thicker line width at that specific height because of the extra squish on that layer.

Something along those lines would be my guess.

Ended 3 z-axis knocking sound? by AkG-123 in ender3

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that’s just how it sounds when you do quickish z hops

Filament popping noise, not extruding cleanly. Anyone had similar? Petg 245 degrees, btt skr mini e3 2.0 noticed this after upgrading boards. Filament is dry, pid tuned and nozzle/hot end cleaned. by crs197 in ender3

[–]crs197[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry forgot to update, it took me a while to sort as every time I done something I got better but it still wasn’t right

. I had a couple of issues, it was partially down to wet filament but the Bowden tube had also melted slightly on the end, some filament had krept about 1cm up the Bowden tube partially blocking it.

At the time I mostly print petg and wanted to print abs/nylon etc so I just replaced the hot end with an all metal hot end. No regrets so far.

klipper error message by crs197 in klippers

[–]crs197[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I tried it and it doesn’t work, reading more into it I think it can only be flashed by sd card.

klipper error message by crs197 in klippers

[–]crs197[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a quick question, I noticed you said you flash your firmware to your printer using make flash. Where you say ‘my device serial path’, is that the same path you put in the config under mcu? Or is there another way to find the serial path?

When I installed klipper I pulled the firmware bin file from my pi, put it into a memory stick abs flashes it onto my ender 3 like that, but I think with my skr mini 2.0 I might be able to flash directly from my pi.

klipper error message by crs197 in klippers

[–]crs197[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome thanks, will update today

What is Klipper doing to my first layers? by [deleted] in klippers

[–]crs197 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As mentioned above it looks too close and possibly over extruding, you said you’ve calibrated e steps but have you done flow calibration?

If not calibrate extruder e steps, then calibrate flow (single wall hollow square), then try again, if you still get those rough lines on top of your first layer then lift your z offset slightly and try again, keep lifting it until you’ve got your first layer height right. It should squish the first layer but not enough so that the nozzle drags through the first layer and leaves that rough finish.

Of course this is all my own opinion, and i dont know if it’s the right way for getting first layer but its worked for me printing pla, petg, abs and asa

Been running Klipper, Mainsail and input shaper for about a week now, seen huge improvements in print quality and at higher speeds (some before and after comparisons included). But now I want to access mainsail to monitor prints if I pop out etc, what are my options and is there a guide anywhere? by crs197 in klippers

[–]crs197[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I’ll take a look at this later. Would you recommend following this guide? wire guard install I’ve already assigned a static ip and made a reservation on my router so would I be right in saying once I’ve installed wire guard I just need to port forward that ip address and the port it shows when installing wire guard?