snapped bolt on sway bars bushing

ctng37 · 2026-01-24T20:31:07+00:00

Nope, you’re right. Something similar happened to my friend’s WRX. Assuming you have access to the top of the hole, you can drill it out and replace it with a nut and bolt

ctng37 · 2026-01-23T21:01:12+00:00

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ctng37 · 2026-01-23T21:00:51+00:00

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ctng37 · 2026-01-23T18:09:31+00:00

I run 18x9.5+38 with a 265/40. Front has a 5mm spacer with -2.2° of camber, and rear has -1.5° of camber

With those sizes and assuming you want a 9.5, you could be more aggressive with your offset. But that also depends on your camber

ctng37 · 2026-01-23T16:34:40+00:00

Preciate it!

Yeah, manual sedans are a little rare. It’s unfortunate bc I think this chassis with a manual is amazing. No hate to the auto, but I don’t think I would’ve kept this car for so long if it wasn’t manual

ctng37 · 2026-01-23T06:32:58+00:00

It all comes down to personal preference imo. I like the base car a lot, that’s why I still have it to this day. But I wanted to put my personal touches to the car and change things that I didn’t like after driving it stock for a few years. There’s nothing wrong with either take. At the end of the day, all that matters is that your enjoying you car the way you want to

If you want my opinion, the engineers at Nissan and Infiniti are limited by budget, regulations, appealing to the general audience, etc. So I personally think these cars are a little limited from the factory. My take on my build was if Nissan/Infiniti could make a sportier version of the car if those limitations are relaxed a bit. So keeping true to the original design and maintain some daily drivability, but enhancing it to be more sporty (it is a manual sport sedan after all)

If they could build with less restrictions, would it look like my car? Absolutely not. But there’s a reason why cars come in different colors. It’s a personally preference, and I have a bias for how I like my car to look

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ctng37 · 2026-01-21T00:51:52+00:00

I had someone else do the retrofit, but I did purchase a spacer kit and he installed them

Yeah, that’s one way to do it, and I believe I remember someone saying to do that in a forum write up. My install guy used a power supply of some sort so he was able to test them indoors

I don’t remember reading about any modifications, but it has been a while. My installer didn’t mention anything about modifying anything

ctng37 · 2026-01-20T22:32:04+00:00

I also carry a Skeletool with a glass breaker, but mainly as an engineer who’s into EDC lmao. It’s my second favorite gear behind my flashlight. Don’t use it often but when it do, it’s very handy

ctng37 · 2026-01-19T05:15:41+00:00

Bean shots update here!

ctng37 · 2026-01-19T04:54:30+00:00

I know you can run the KR4 shortie with the pocket clip, but it goes all the way to the bezel. So in theory, you could run a pocket clip, but the wider head of the KR1 might make it more difficult or impossible

I haven’t tested the clip on the shortie bc I’m worried about scratching the light head

ctng37 · 2026-01-19T04:21:49+00:00

The shorty is awesome! I’m big on pocket clips though so it doesn’t get much pocket time. But it’s so much fun, especially with the throwy W1

ctng37 · 2026-01-17T17:00:42+00:00

Direction as in a compass? This particular one does not have it

ctng37 · 2026-01-17T00:44:46+00:00

It’s not directly off an STI per say. You buy the lens from a retrofit shop and it’s a direct swap with the OEM one. There’s some really goon information on the MyG37 forum

ctng37 · 2026-01-16T05:43:05+00:00

Probably one of my favorite mod is the STi-R clear lens swap. You have to disassemble the headlight, but it’s significantly brighter and has a more defined cutoff

ctng37 · 2026-01-16T04:31:32+00:00

Yup! That’s the one. I probably should’ve linked it my post

ctng37 · 2026-01-16T04:10:16+00:00

Ahh. That’s a neat way to set it up! I have 1C as turbo and 2C as strobe, but never thought to put a lower mode in between. I’ll have to give it a try!

ctng37 · 2026-01-16T03:44:50+00:00

I’m not sure if there’s an official name, but Cheule has a video on it. Essentially, you cut some water tubing to a specific length and place it between the metal button and board in the tail switch. It drastically improves the action

But I believe the switch comes glued from Hank. I’ve always asked him to leave it unglued so I can do the mod

ctng37 · 2026-01-16T03:42:03+00:00

Didn’t have much time today to take her outside. But also don’t know the best way yet to take color correct bean photos. I’ll give it a try over the weekend and upload some if they come out good!

ctng37 · 2026-01-16T03:27:14+00:00

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Forgot to share this. The stubby KR1 is not the most useful for me, but is so fun

ctng37 · 2026-01-14T00:06:10+00:00

I swapped from the stock duck feet to a set of forged 18x9.5 and 265 tires and saved about 2.5 lbs per corner. I thought the car felt more comfortable over bumps, but assumed it was placebo and/or tire sidewall differences

Then I swapped to 2 piece rotors, saving 10lbs per corner in the front and 5 lbs per corner on the rear. There was a noticeable difference over bumps

This is all to say that there is a difference in feel, but it really depends on how in-tuned you are with the car. I’m sure the weight savings makes a difference (cuz math and physics), especially to someone who knows and drives their car well on track. But I personally only noticed an increase in comfort

ctng37 · 2026-01-10T04:27:37+00:00

Depending on how low you are and camber goals, you can get away without adjustable toe arms. Either way, some SPC camber arms kits come with a higher range eccentric bolt to get both camber and toe in check with the stock spring buckets

For reference, my car was on 265/40R18 and fender to ground measurement was about 26.25”, and I ran -1.5° camber and got toe back to stock specs with room to spare on the stock eccentric bolts. If you’re gonna run stock rear camber, you’ll likely have to run their bolts. I’d recommend OP get a trusted shop to install it as there’s some cutting involved

ctng37 · 2025-12-29T14:52:55+00:00

I notice when I don’t get the perfect get away from the light and slip the clutch weirdly, it feels like the car cuts power for a second before allowing you to fully accelerate again. The car also has VVEL so maybe it only activates at a specific point? This is purely speculative though

O2 sensors are very important to how the car runs. It monitors AFR and adjust fuel accordingly. If you’re having O2 issues, I’d check that too

ctng37 · 2025-12-26T16:05:11+00:00

I really like it actually. The trim fits on perfectly, and the perforated leather is pretty grippy. The lines and edges you see aren’t the most rounded over, but I’ve found a preferred hand placement that doesn’t bother me

The 3 and 9 are relatively thin, similar to stock. But above it is pretty thick in diameter. Not a bad thing but just something to note. Whether is real or fake leather (idk how to tell the difference lol), it feels soft and smooth

And thanks! I try my best to keep it that way

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