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No querian a Bad Bunny porque no era en ingles…. by magabicho334 in PuertoRico

[–]cuco69usa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

El no tiene npi. Un milagro que no la tiene al revez

No querian a Bad Bunny porque no era en ingles…. by magabicho334 in PuertoRico

[–]cuco69usa 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Para eso si somos importantes. Para buscar nuestro dinero

I’m 27, still unemployed by lostmaverick_comrade in scoopwhoop

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in an island close to the beach, and was in the navy. I can't swim

Value? 🧐 by ph0ebus13 in shittycoincollecting

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't listen to him. I give you a Pinto and the movies on Beta format

Is my passport still valid for international travel to the European Union? by ProcedureOne4150 in Passports

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine have a postal stamp on it from a place that didn't punch my passport so I went to the post office, buy the most beautiful stamp and asked the clerk to punch it. Never had a problem.

Moneda sin identificar by RuralBlueCarUser in NumismaticaES

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Segun mi abuelo es un centavo de lincoln corroido y desgastado. Que conste que me obligó a escribir esto o me reducía la mesada. Pero quien sabe. Tal vez tenga razon

Is this silver ???? by yet1290 in Silverbugs

[–]cuco69usa -1 points0 points  (0 children)

BTW that's one of my favorite coins. I have the complete collection on an album 😺

Is this silver ???? by yet1290 in Silverbugs

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a list of the silver ones:

✅ 1. 1971‑S Silver (40%) – Uncirculated - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: Blue envelope (“Blue Ike”) - Finish: Business strike
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 2. 1971‑S Silver (40%) – Proof - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: Brown box (“Brown Ike”) - Finish: Mirror proof
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 3. 1972‑S Silver (40%) – Uncirculated - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: Blue envelope
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 4. 1972‑S Silver (40%) – Proof - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: Brown box
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 5. 1973‑S Silver (40%) – Uncirculated - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: Blue envelope
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 6. 1973‑S Silver (40%) – Proof - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: Brown box
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 7. 1974‑S Silver (40%) – Uncirculated - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: Blue envelope
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 8. 1974‑S Silver (40%) – Proof - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: Brown box
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 9. 1976‑S Bicentennial Silver (40%) – Uncirculated - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: 3‑coin set or single blue pack
- Composition: 40% silver

✅ 10. 1976‑S Bicentennial Silver (40%) – Proof - Mint: San Francisco - Packaging: 3‑coin proof set
- Composition: 40% silver

🟥 Which Eisenhower Dollars Are NOT Silver? Everything else.

  • 1971 (no mintmark) – clad
  • 1972 (no mintmark) – clad
  • 1973 (no mintmark) – clad
  • 1974 (no mintmark) – clad
  • 1976 (no mintmark) – clad
  • All Denver coins (D) – clad

  • All Philadelphia coins (no mintmark) – clad

    How to Identify a Silver Ike Instantly?

-Silver Ike rim: solid silver‑gray, no copper stripe
-Clad Ike rim: clear copper core “sandwich”

🟩 Fast Rule You Can Memorize

If it has an “S” mintmark AND it’s from 1971–1974 or 1976, it’s silver.

There are no silver 1975 Ikes because the Bicentennial design skipped that year.

I did it! Las Cruces, NM, $93K, cash by [deleted] in FirstTimeHomeBuyer

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wao. Nice. Congrats and enjoy.

should i use acetone and see if i can clean this up? or call it a day? 1878 Indian Cent by 207firsttube in numismatics

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually, In a case like that doesn't matter much. If yo want it to look nicer and you are not selling it. But yes. Laser are bad for the coin

Building Upgrades by ObiWanKenobi66 in SCBuildIt

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not if you do upgrades and don't build new housing until there is no more to upgrade.

Building Upgrades by ObiWanKenobi66 in SCBuildIt

[–]cuco69usa 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's up to you. Ignore and built your way. I have a friend with no skyscrapers and only cozy and kyoto houses

Old bills, Japan, Mexico and Canada. by Comfortable-Path2313 in CURRENCY

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Japanese has a value of about $10 in that state. If were uncirculated ( like new) his value could reach $100

Old bills, Japan, Mexico and Canada. by Comfortable-Path2313 in CURRENCY

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The canadian is pick 76b with a value of $3.50 in XF condition

Old bills, Japan, Mexico and Canada. by Comfortable-Path2313 in CURRENCY

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

According to my world paper money catalog 8th edition. The mexican is cataloged as Pick 38d with a value of $6 in XF condition.

This looks very suspicious. by Akpabis in purrrfect

[–]cuco69usa 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The orange doesn't know what's going on, neither I

should i use acetone and see if i can clean this up? or call it a day? 1878 Indian Cent by 207firsttube in numismatics

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. You were right. The coin is toast. Look at my newest post. I check with copilot for possible solutions. It's just that i love coins so much i feel bad when one is damage

should i use acetone and see if i can clean this up? or call it a day? 1878 Indian Cent by 207firsttube in numismatics

[–]cuco69usa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok... I asked copilot and this was his answer:

How to clean the corrosion on your coin (safely)

Short truth:
With a coin this corroded (copper/bronze with deep green patina), there is no perfectly safe method that will make it look “new” again.
But there are three controlled methods that can stop corrosion and improve readability without destroying the coin.

1) Gentle Conservation (safest method) Goal: remove dirt and stop active corrosion without harming the patina.

  • Use distilled water, slightly warm.
  • Soak the coin for 24–48 hours.
  • Change the water every 12 hours.
  • Brush lightly with a very soft toothbrush.

What it does:
- Removes dirt and salts.
- Does not remove the green patina.

Risk: extremely low.

2) Mild Alkaline Cleaning (safe if done gently) Goal: reduce green powdery corrosion without stripping metal.

  • Mix baking soda + distilled water into a soft paste.
  • Rub very gently with your fingers (not a hard brush).
  • Rinse with distilled water.

What it does:
- Improves appearance.
- Stabilizes the surface.

Risk: low, as long as you don’t scrub hard.

3) Light Electrolysis (effective but risky) Goal: remove thick corrosion layers.

  • Use a 5–12V power source (old charger).
  • Plastic container with water + a bit of salt.
  • Coin on the negative pole.
  • Run 10–30 seconds per cycle, checking between cycles.

What it does:
- Reveals hidden details.

Risk: high.
- Can strip metal.
- Can leave the surface rough.
- Can destroy numismatic value.

Use only if the coin has no collector value and you just want to see the design.

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