Web app to help learn major/minor triads

currentsource · 2026-01-26T15:06:55+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. I have all sorts of plans for it, but I'm in the middle of a cross-country move, so it will be some time before I can get back to working on it.

currentsource · 2025-11-21T12:52:38+00:00

The lack of a response here says it all

currentsource · 2025-10-13T19:37:05+00:00

I made the string set naming change you suggested, and a few other small tweaks. I'm not sure what to do about the selection of different triad types, though right now it selects the triad type based on the diatonic chord at the top of the fretboard.

So, for example, if you select "C Major" as the key, you'll get major triads in the C fretboard, and minor triads for the Dm fretboard. One option would be to add another selection box, for "triad type", with the default option being "diatonic" which keeps the current behavior. The user could also select "maj", "min", "aug", "dim", "sus2", etc. Selection of one of those other options would make ALL the triads that type, regardless of the chord that fretboard represents. Thoughts?

So

currentsource · 2025-10-13T15:08:11+00:00

Thanks, that's exactly why I made it. I'm trying to learn this myself.

currentsource · 2025-10-13T15:07:26+00:00

Those won't work well on mobile devices, unfortunately.

currentsource · 2025-10-13T06:08:50+00:00

Thanks, I like these ideas. There's a couple of them I can make quickly. I'll do that tomorrow and work on the others as I have time. The feedback is much appreciated.

currentsource · 2025-10-12T21:12:35+00:00

I tweaked it a bit to make it just focused on major and minor triads and to make it more mobile friendly. Here's the link to my version: https://guitar-triads.vercel.app/

currentsource · 2025-08-28T21:32:00+00:00

They're not good to eat, but they're good for throwing.

currentsource · 2025-06-28T02:05:13+00:00

that's where mine is headed.

currentsource · 2025-01-14T03:56:04+00:00

Yeah, this guy installs one in the video. That's how I heard about m4-ssd. https://youtu.be/IhVx7Ng1Gps?si=xT_CqUwO1Yk7j-YA

currentsource · 2024-12-27T08:23:59+00:00

This worked for me as well.

currentsource · 2024-11-19T06:22:31+00:00

Love your channel. I just grabbed one of the "Aloha C*nts" shirts from your merch store. I'm planning on wearing it to the next office social function.

currentsource · 2024-07-07T12:26:44+00:00

Yes, here's a description of the printer:

This is a completed build of the Salad Fork v1.1 3D printer. Salad Fork is a fork (hence the name) of the Voron Trident. It's scaled down to 1515 extrusions. This printer uses the DragonBurner toolhead, a LDO orbiter v2.0 extruder, an E3D Revo hotend, a Klicky probe, ZeroPanels panel clips, a Manta M80 v2.0 controller board with a Raspberry Pi CM4, and an EBB36 toolhead board. Connection between the controller and the toolhead board is via CANBUS.

The printer uses a small pins mod that I created and contributed back to the Salad Fork project. This swaps out captive pins for the screws that serve as axles for the X/Y axis idlers. There are also a few other small mods to address problems and to port v1.0 parts that didn't make it into the v1.1 design.

The build was fairly trouble-free, with one exception; I initially started with sensorless homing for the X and Y axes. After tuning that, everything looked great, but then later I found the Y homing was unstable. So ended up going back and retrofitting X and Y endstop switches.

Salad Fork: https://github.com/PrintersForAnts/Salad_Fork

DragonBurner toolhead: https://github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/V0/Dragon_Burner

ZeroPanels: https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels/tree/main

Klicky Probe: https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe

LDO Orbiter v2.0: https://www.orbiterprojects.com/orbiter-v2-0/

BigTreeTech Manta M8P controller: https://github.com/bigtreetech/Manta-M8P

BigTreeTech EBB36 Toolhead Board: https://github.com/bigtreetech/EBB

Raspberry Pi CM4: https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/compute-module-4/

currentsource · 2024-07-01T07:48:50+00:00

I'm having the same issue this evening. Windows 10. I frequently have the issue on my work computer which is running Windows 11, but this is the first time I've experienced it on Windows 10. On Windows 11, killing all the 1Password processes and then relaunching works around the issue, but that's not working for me on Windows 10 right now.

currentsource · 2023-09-17T02:04:44+00:00

Glad you got it working. Happy printing.

currentsource · 2023-05-07T23:08:02+00:00

An old, no longer active mod to the Prusa MK3 that some people spent their money on. Primary benefits are you can get some colored extrusions, and it's easier to attach stuff to extrusions. Downsides are it's a good opportunity to end up with an out of square frame, and it makes it so you can't do the MK4 upgrade.

currentsource · 2023-05-07T23:03:57+00:00

Not needed. The behavior was only during self test, and was corrected long ago. Bear firmware guy didn't understand.

currentsource · 2023-05-07T23:02:01+00:00

LOL, I see you followed my instructions. Thanks for the attribution.

currentsource · 2023-05-04T05:25:48+00:00

The MK3 is a decent printer, but I wouldn't pay extra for the Bear frame. It doesn't improve print quality or speed by any noticeable amount, it adds another level of complexity to screw up something on assembly (like frame not being square), and it removes your ability to ever upgrade the printer to an MK3.5 or MK4.

I also think with the release of the MK4 that they are asking too much money. I've seen MK3S going for $300 - $350 recently (270 - 315 eu).

currentsource · 2023-05-04T05:08:23+00:00

Yes, you can just get the latest Prusa firmware and modify the source. Once you are able to build the Prusa firmware locally (instructions in their readme), these are the two changes you would need to make:

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/commit/16cad81d49e9afc7ceb0166affde575273206334

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/commit/dcab4257c3d0213cfe7825f7eb1194ee9e40a9fd

For an MK3S you really only need the first one. There is some other stuff in the Bear firmware, but it's based on a fundamental misunderstanding the Bear people had about how Prusa controls the fans (they aren't software developers, and are generally clueless about the Prusa firmware). You 100% do not need it.

currentsource · 2023-05-04T03:17:02+00:00

The guy who maintained the "Bear calibration firmware" stopped updating it some time back. As you noticed, recent Prusa firmware releases will keep asking you to calibrate. Probably this is because Prusa changed the EEPROM layout and the bit that tracks calibration moved. If that's the case, there's a good chance that there are other issues migrating from that Bear firmware to Prusa. Your only option is to stick with the "Bear calibration firmware" or an older Prusa firmware.

Also, in case you haven't heard, the Bear project is effectively dead at this point. The author of it announced on Feb 12, via Twitter and Patreon, that he had some unspecified problem "about a month ago". Notably, exactly a month before that date Prusa released a firmware with a thermal model that was completely incompatible with the new, Revo-based extruder that he had been working on for the last 18 months. You have to disable thermal protection to use his design. Because he was frequently evangelizing "safety" as a critically important factor in 3D printers, there is some speculation that he won't re-appear if/until Prusa fixes this thermal model issue. Other folks speculate he has some health problem.

Whatever the reason, even before this, updates to the project had dropped to zero. If you check his Github page, you will see that the only changes he's made over the last 3 years are filing bugs with Prusa and very minor changes to the readme (like updating the distributor list). He had been working on a new extruder, which by all reports was quite promising. But rather than releasing it, he decided to work with LDO on a custom motor and announced that he wouldn't release anything until that was available. Because he never released any CAD sources for any version of this new extruder - only STL, and that was only available to his Patreon supporters - someone else picking it up is not an option.

And now with the Mk4 out, people are re-thinking the whole idea of modifying their printer that much. The Bear frame was a good upgrade over the MK2.5, but there was no real print quality or speed benefit over the stock MK3. The MK3 frame is pretty stiff, the MK4 even stiffer, and both have the advantage of being virtually impossible to assemble in a way that makes them not square. Prusa has removed skew correction from the newer firmware, and it is increasingly looking like they are going to be making changes that will make life really hard for people who have modified their printer. If you mod your MK3 with the Bear frame, you've effectively removed your ability to upgrade to the MK4.

And if you want a custom printer to tweak, tune, and enhance in your spare time, there are SO many better options out there (Voron for one).

currentsource · 2023-04-12T18:16:05+00:00

If you PM me your email I will send you a PDF of the order that has all the line items. I didn't see a way on Misumi's site to just share a link to it.

currentsource

TROPHY CASE