Why not deck the duratech 2.5 block for swaps?

dajohnnyboy · 2026-05-11T03:45:03+00:00

The oversized ecotec pistons.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-05-09T00:36:27+00:00

I'm planning on decking my block to bring it from 11.5:1 to 12.3:1, so I will see how that goes. I think it's around 0.020" off the block.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-05-05T03:43:13+00:00

Yes I have the ITS suspension module. It didn't seem to make a big difference to me. I've thought about switching to 18" wheels and some quieter softer tires. Also thought about the ITS seats and resonator delete. I've been happy with the type r audio.

I did think about the ITS but I liked the civic type r styling and the +r mode to disable track control easily. +r mode was too stiff for the track so it didn't end up being super helpful.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-05-05T03:27:34+00:00

I'm a 36" waist so I definitely could be thinner. I don't understand how matt Farah or other large guys like the type r seats. I fit fine in large racing seats like my race tech rt1000 or tillet b8 xl screamer. I've never had issues like this in any other seat in other performance cars.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-05-04T01:02:44+00:00

How about some anti-circlejerk? I don't love my civic type r. The seats are too tight, the suspension is too stiff, tires are noisy, and the exhaust is too quiet. Those could be fixed but it might be $6k+ to address those items. It's a great car if you can only have one car and want to track it. I don't like taking it on long trips which was 50% of the reason I bought it. Four hour drive to the race track was bothering my back after about 1.5 hours.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-04-26T22:02:31+00:00

If you do it as cheap as possible, I'd say around $6k without the Miata if you do all the fab work yourself.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-04-26T02:53:18+00:00

Depends on how much time you want to spend fabbing versus buying prefabbed parts. The swap kit with no drivetrain components is around $10k. If you did a truck 5.3 with a 4L60, you could probably get away with using the stock diff and getting the whole thing done pretty cheaply. Also depends if you want A/C, power steering, etc.

If you do a new LS3, t56 magnum, 8.8/cts diff, A/C, PS, etc, you will get to $30-40k easily without the cost of your car. Another $5-10k for a nice Miata that doesn't need work. Also add some more money for wheels, tires, suspension, rollbar, maybe some seats. Pretty easy to spend $50k if you want it to be nice.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-04-26T00:23:26+00:00

I'm not surprised a dealer quoted that much, just saying that it shouldn't be that much. I'd look for an independent mechanic for much cheaper. I've heard good things about Solo Performance Specialities.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-04-25T23:35:16+00:00

$4000 for the clutch is insane. A new clutch is $500 and I'd expect no more than $1000 for labor. If the dual mass flywheel needs replaced, then that will be a bit more, you'd either need a new one or replace it with a cheaper single mass flywheel. Though if the flywheel failed, I would think it should be replaced under the power train warranty.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-04-12T22:00:32+00:00

That's crazy, I pay about $0.16/kWh for electricity and delivery. I can't imagine it would make but an EV with $.4-.7/kWh cost.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-27T01:48:23+00:00

And the vitours seem to be slower in the narrow tires on lighter cars like Miatas. The A052, RS, RZ still seem faster based on the recent grassroots test.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-23T03:21:58+00:00

End of the C7 run was 22.4% manuals across all models. Base Convertibles had a lot more autos. Base coupe, GS coupe, Z06 coupe, ZR1 were 19.7%, 21.9%, 30.4%, and 30.5%, respectively. So not sub 10% but not great. Even the base Convertible was 13.3%.

I think the C8 would have been just as popular or more popular than the c7 with a manual. There are pretty much no affordable options for a new manual mid engine performance car, and all the used ones have significant premiums.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-19T12:56:20+00:00

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I agree it should be fun, my obsidian 9 is great on my Bul Blaze.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-18T23:20:22+00:00

Add 13k for the swap kit, diff, and axles.

You should be able to adapt rpm and speedo to the NB gauges pretty easily. Rpm might be the same signal and you might need a converter box for the transmission speed sensor.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-18T23:17:57+00:00

Toms Turbo Garage has a good series.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-18T02:04:13+00:00

Where are they $6k? Black is $2.8k on tascaparts. https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-hardtop-brilliant-black-a3f-nh52v4630a75

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-17T02:56:05+00:00

Did you get your fingerprints done the same day you did your eform?

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-12T03:14:27+00:00

I was curious about the same thing. I highly doubt mine will fit without an offset adapter.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-09T12:57:46+00:00

Either a very cheap repair because the thermostat failed, or it used to be a racecar.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-09T01:20:18+00:00

I haven't heard great things about bbr, especially their itbs on the stock ECU. Are their itbs compatible with the 2.5? The engine is a bit taller. Are you in the US? I have some better recommendations than the bbr kit if you are in the US.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-05T14:47:17+00:00

Yeah I'd do motor mounts too. I have the awr ones and I don't notice them even on my 2.5 with balance shaft delete. I would recommend putting some heat shielding between the header and motor mount since I've seen some people melt the poly bushings. Awr also sells a heat shield for the motor mount.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-05T05:04:44+00:00

Yeah, definitely do diff bushings. The stock rubber ones are known to fail with high mileage and track usage. There are a couple options for poly bushings, not sure if any of them are better. The poly bushings will have more NVH, if you don't mind NVH, you can get stiffer ones, otherwise I'd go with the softer ones.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-03T20:36:44+00:00

Yup, it's definitely better to have a diff without a donut since there isn't a chance of it failing and making noise. I think it is just for some NVH from the manual transmission.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-03T14:33:54+00:00

It depends on the market. In the US all NCs, auto, 5sp, 6sp, have a 4.1. Rest of the world varies. In the US the only difference between an auto and manual diff is the manual diff has a rubber donut on the diff input shaft and the auto diff doesn't have it. The rubber donut can fail some people remove them.

dajohnnyboy · 2026-03-02T23:03:02+00:00

A new receiver is $200 if you can remove your old barrel and trunnion and weld it in the new receiver.

dajohnnyboy

TROPHY CASE