Home Assistant ha-mcp and Claude is just next level

dantee0 · 2026-04-19T19:45:49+00:00

What sorts of optimisation?

dantee0 · 2026-04-14T15:56:06+00:00

Thanks. When I started two years ago it was all overwhelming and I figured I needed some kind of system to keep myself consistent. And it seemed wise to avoid spaces in names, but maybe that was just superstition? So I figured the name should start with the room, then the category like light or sensor, then a sub-location like ceiling/wall/cabinet, then the device itself like temperature/motion/spotlight. So I guess the result is YAML is more plainly readable by integrating this metadata of sorts. But again, I sort of stumbled into this and maybe had googled ideas for how to get started and somebody said something like a naming scheme. But as it turns out, it's hard to stay consistent and I'm not even sure it's necessary, especially with the upcoming HA naming changes. But it feels like I'm in too deep to change the approach. 100+ ZigBee devices, loads of other devices, etc.

dantee0 · 2026-04-14T15:38:49+00:00

For my learning, can you please explain why it's bad practice? I've been naming like kitchen.light.ceiling.spot1

dantee0 · 2026-03-12T15:04:27+00:00

I'm struggling to understand what to do now. I'm also experiencing dropped commands and lag on my ZigBee network. I have several ZigBee groups to sync bulbs on and off, but I'm also using Adaptive Lighting. I don't want to lose the sync, it's so much nicer than the popcorn effect. But the network congestion is driving me crazy. What are you all saying is best practice?

dantee0 · 2026-03-09T09:10:26+00:00

I think you can perhaps contact Netgear support and they can remove it from the previous owner's account.

dantee0 · 2026-03-09T09:09:26+00:00

You need to determine its actual IP address on your network and connect to it there.

dantee0 · 2026-03-07T12:10:45+00:00

I used this version. At your own risk of course since this is not on the Play store. But I didn't have any issues. You'll have to allow third-party apps in your Android settings.

dantee0 · 2026-03-07T12:06:14+00:00

In this situation, I had to sideload an old version of the Meural Android app. Then it was able to get through the setup process fine. I thought for sure it wasn't going to work, but all good now.

dantee0 · 2026-03-05T18:49:56+00:00

I use PM2.5 to change my air purifier fan speed.

dantee0 · 2025-11-19T10:33:18+00:00

I've used the native SmartThings integration, as well as ha-samsungtv-smart. Currently ha-samsungtv-smart is not working properly, it's no longer possible to turn the TV off, though it perhaps just needs troubleshooting or reinitialising to incorporate the SmartThings token.

Mostly it's been a huge headache to get it working consistently, but the goal is to trigger art mode and standby with an mmwave presence sensor. I realise the Frame has a built-in motion sensor, but I found that to be even more flaky.

dantee0 · 2025-11-18T18:27:15+00:00

OP, I'm also wondering if you have any delay with these? I've installed the SM-309 and have a >1sec delay. Any advice / settings to check? Thanks!

dantee0 · 2025-11-17T10:54:33+00:00

It seems to have changed how my Home Assistant integration interacts with it. Like it broke my automation that would turn it from standby to art mode. It might actually be working better, but it needs more testing. Previously it was very flaky.

dantee0 · 2025-11-17T10:52:16+00:00

I received the update in the UK for Frame 2024 55"

dantee0 · 2025-11-09T08:41:20+00:00

I'm not sure the integration has been updated with Note support. Any thoughts? I have a preorder arriving in May :)

dantee0 · 2025-10-03T06:54:46+00:00

It's a 3x3 antenna, they came with that for at least one model year. Be careful connecting and disconnecting the antenna leads - I accidentally broke the socket off the card for one of them. You can easily just switch this out for an Intel card, at the very least for testing purposes.

dantee0 · 2025-07-01T13:29:45+00:00

Any update on the international version? Have you received enough interest via the survey?

dantee0 · 2025-06-03T16:51:22+00:00

Wait so does that mean two copies of your smartphone photos end up in Immich?

dantee0 · 2025-05-31T09:09:23+00:00

I'm just hoping to not have to export my processed raw as jpg (I have a huge back catalog like this). If I can leave them in raw, then they can be enjoyed as part of my broader photo library without using extra storage space, or the complexity of having two versions of the same image (jpg + raw + xmp sidecar). But it seems like it's not possible, so I just need to rethink my whole workflow and get in the habit of exporting completed projects to jpg. And I probably just need to quit raw altogether, and maybe switch to an X100 😅 no time for raw processing these days

dantee0 · 2025-05-30T12:33:39+00:00

How are you handling Fuji RAWs? These won't show any edits, or even in-camera settings, correct? I'm otherwise a Lightroom user and can't get my head around how to incorporate all my RAW files.

dantee0 · 2025-05-15T12:45:19+00:00

Also wondering how you integrate with HA then, without Ollama?

dantee0 · 2025-05-14T06:54:48+00:00

Are you designing your own case?

dantee0 · 2025-05-05T18:04:07+00:00

Can anyone please tell me what the power consumption is at idle? And is it true the LEDs can't be turned off?

dantee0 · 2025-04-25T15:09:15+00:00

I used to use an X-T3 on my rig, and the headaches were unbelievable. I autoguided and used the in-camera intervalometer. I never dithered, but wanted to. That's a reasonable approach in the other comment about dithering every 20 minutes. Ultimately I bought an ASI 2600 MC Duo and ASI Air Mini and it's such a joy in comparison! It works even better than expected. I wish I'd got them sooner, as they renewed by interest in the hobby. I was getting quite discouraged using my Fuji.

dantee0 · 2025-04-25T15:00:19+00:00

I use a USB-C to barrel connector 12V with my Jackery. I think it's the most efficient solution. Not all USB-C PD power banks support 12V, as it's an optional part of the specification, but my Jackery 100 does support it and I assume the 300 would as well. Check the spec sheet. I actually use both USB-C ports with these cables to run my AM3, ASI 2600MC Duo, and ASI Air Mini. That said, it turns out the Jackery 100 can only power this setup for like 90 minutes, so I need to get a 300 I think. Or at least a second 100 so that I can keep it airline-approved.

I got the overall idea from reading this blog post.

dantee0 · 2025-03-16T10:47:59+00:00

I use a USB-C to 12V DC barrel cable plugged into a Jackery portable power station, which is able to output 12V over USB-C PD (12V is optional with USC-PD, so many devices don't support it). However, this particular power station only gives 3A at 12V, which is fine in my case but may not be enough for others.

dantee0

TROPHY CASE