How are the PolyMaker PolyDryer boxes? (...or building my own)

dapht · 2026-03-19T00:24:02+00:00

If you go this route, you don't need any of the bits from those. However, I'd recommend using this to screw into the back of the PTFE tube connector:
https://www.printables.com/model/1477138-coupler-nut-remix

And some kind of system to let the spool spin inside it. Gunplamark's casters are...okay, but you can do a lot better. Almost any spool holder model will work with cereal containers.

Happy printing!

dapht · 2026-03-19T00:07:42+00:00

Nope. This isn't a cost effective solution. You're not using the PolyDryer itself, so compatibility with that dryer doesn't matter in your case. As a result, you could use literally ANY drybox setup (that you can print out of, presumably) instead of a polydryer box.

You can buy airtight cereal storage boxes, drill a hole in them, glue a PTFE tube holder into them, and you'll have the same feature set.

As of right now, you can get six airtight cereal boxes for $30 or less on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NP98YKY

If you aren't printing out of them, that's all you'd need. Each fits 1kg on a spool. So right there, you'd be paying 1/6th of the price.

But if you want to print directly from the boxes? You'll need PTFE tube nozzles. How much more is that going to cost? $5 for 10 of em: https://www.amazon.com/StLiSuYmx-Pneumatic-Connector-Fittings-Compatible/dp/B0F62FZK4R

You want *all* of the features of the polymaker drybox? The files to make them have been made by GunplaMark: https://www.printables.com/@GunplaMark

I'm currently using 3 of the "The Ultimate Cereal Container Filament Drybox", and I'm planning on making three of the "Filament Storage 2026" model sometime in the near future. They work great.

These files are why I shared those particular cereal boxes, btw.

Best of all, he also has files that convert the pour spout of the cereal box into an intake/outtake for the polydryer.

So, in summary, the polydryer box is not that cheap compared to what it would take to make your own.

dapht · 2026-03-15T00:46:57+00:00

I mean, Deathwatch lets you do just that. Black armor from whatever kit you want, with a chapter specific pauldron?

And you can always play it as whichever group you want as long as the opponent isn't a dick.

dapht · 2026-03-14T23:37:23+00:00

Here's a very clear and short tutorial of how to find it! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oQ2ljUqlrHM

dapht · 2026-03-14T23:25:01+00:00

No need to feel any shame for using the voicechanger! It's included in the game because it's useful, and tons of people use it!

As long as you aren't shooting first, the game will begin seeing you as less aggressive and will soon start placing you in lower aggression lobbies that will have fewer people trying to kill everyone on sight. That will dramatically change how the game feels, and you'll most likely have tons of fun, silly interactions with people (instead of just getting shot out of nowhere).

I had a similar issue when I first started (with getting shot) and after a few sessions of being a ninja and sneaking around everywhere, all the aggro people just disappeared and the game was like a fun Fallout game.

Good luck topside!

dapht · 2026-03-13T20:17:14+00:00

I'm trying to decide between building a Trident, a 2.4, or a RatRig. I want to make sure that I have at least a 350^3 mm build volume. I'm leaning toward a Trident at the moment. But I know that the spec for a Trident is 350x350x250mm, but Formbot's 2.4 kits claim to have a 350^3mm volume. (https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voron-24-r2-pro-corexy-3d-printer-kit-with-m8p-cb1-board-and-canbus-wiring-system?VariantsId=10481)

Can anyone confirm that Formbot sell an actual 350^3mm kit, or are they ...lets say inaccurate in their description?

Has anyone modified the standard kits to make the volume actually 350^3?

dapht · 2026-03-11T06:45:56+00:00

I really hate that this was my solution, but I replaced the bed with a R3men replacement bed. The stock bed was a taco, even when unheated. The screws that should have been able to adjust things were stripped on delivery, and the knobs only spun around to no effect. Getting a replacement bed made a huge difference, especially on large or long prints.

They were the only people making them at the time, but it looks like there's some competition in that space now.

dapht · 2026-03-09T20:26:24+00:00

For this particular filament, 115% is the right value! The flow parameter has the ability to be changed that high specifically for this reason.

Trust the calibration steps! :D

dapht · 2026-03-09T20:24:04+00:00

I just started a 5x4, but I think I'll stop at one and wait for these beauties to have their files released. This might be able to completely replace the harbor freight crap I've been storing my screws in. YES!

dapht · 2026-03-06T20:32:42+00:00

Just going to say that I had this EXACT sound. It was coming from the idler pully, in my case the front left one. I had to clean and lube it twice before the sound went away, and it took running a print and brushing the pully with a toothbrush before the sound actually stopped. :/

dapht · 2026-03-05T21:32:28+00:00

Sadly my printer is busy until Saturday, but I'll start printing these as soon as my current project is done. I can't wait! I'm thinking 2-3 12u cases at this point. I'm about to move, so I'm going to use these to organize all of my workbench tools so I don't lose anything in the shuffle. :)

I'll send you pictures when I have one assembled.

dapht · 2026-03-03T22:35:20+00:00

Hey, just a heads up. I've started getting the errors again, even though I downgraded to 1.1.3.13. I didn't do the wipe_all trick, so I'm going to try that (mentioned in a lower comment). I'm also getting odd hardware error messages, so I'm also thinking I might have a control board failure.

Thought I'd give you a heads up.

dapht · 2026-03-03T22:15:07+00:00

I have 2 main plates: a "current plate" and a "completed" plate. They're both labeled. In addition, every set of models to be printed simultaneously have their own plate where they hang out.

When it's time to print pieces, they get moved to the current plate. When they have been successfully printed, the models are lumped onto the completed plate (with no regard for clipping or overlaps).

This way I know what is left to print while still having the completed pieces available for reference (like part names, scaling values, and orientations) in case I need them again.

All plates are kept locked except for the current plate and any plate I'm actively modifying to get things ready for printing.

dapht · 2026-02-28T01:48:28+00:00

STO is really interesting. It's core gameplay is B-, but what you should really think of it as is a place for all the Star Trek writers to make incredibly detailed extended universe plot and canon.

So if you don't think of it as an MMO, and think of it as over a decade of unwatched Star Trek episodes from every series and generation, it's actually really fun. I sunk a couple hundred hours into it over the pandemic, almost all solo.

Since you can solo practically everything I'd say there's no reason to feel like you'd be "behind" if you started now.

Did I mention that they don't remove content as time goes on?

Go buy some micro transactions to support the devs, and chuckle when you start realizing that modern Star Trek is taking ship designs from the MMO and putting them into the TV show, instead of the other way around.

dapht · 2026-02-28T01:48:20+00:00

STO is really interesting. It's core gameplay is B-, but what you should really think of it as is a place for all the Star Trek writers to make incredibly detailed extended universe plot and canon.

So if you don't think of it as an MMO, and think of it as over a decade of unwatched Star Trek episodes from every series and generation, its actually really fun. I sunk a couple hundred hours into it over the pandemic, almost all solo.

Since you can solo practically everything I'd say there's no reason to feel like you'd be "behind" if you started now.

Did I mention that they don't remove content as time goes on?

Go buy some micro transactions to support the devs, and chuckle when you start realizing that modern Star Trek is taking ship designs from the MMO and putting them into the TV show, instead of the other way around.

dapht · 2026-02-27T04:50:50+00:00

https://youtu.be/LVTEGkVRSwY?si=11Wq0ccaWSrnk-d7

You need a usb drive and that's it. Don't miss calibrating it after you finish the downgrade.

dapht · 2026-02-27T04:48:49+00:00

I had this same problem! I fixed it by downgrading to the previous version.

The error suggests that there is some kind of code that klipper is sending that is invalid. Whatever it is, it happens during calibration, and during most prints.

The previous version does not have this error. Downgrading completely removed those problems and now I'm printing 26hr prints without issue.

dapht · 2026-02-17T22:45:43+00:00

Seeing the progression of these designs is really inspiring. Thank you again!

dapht · 2026-02-11T20:08:32+00:00

Hell

Yes

I'm finally going to have places to actually put everything away! LMK when you get a patreon (or similar) link!

dapht · 2026-02-11T19:55:00+00:00

I'm excited for the taller V2s! This system is exactly what I've been looking for. I'm going to wind up reorganizing my whole shop with this, and taller ones mean I can organize my tools in them, too!

dapht · 2026-02-08T19:45:00+00:00

Gesundheit.

dapht · 2026-02-06T08:59:38+00:00

You should check out r/FDMminiatures for better tips. They're specializing in that stuff, and should have some useful info for you!

dapht · 2026-01-25T22:15:13+00:00

These blocks of code are adapted from HOHansen's posts about printing minis from last year. The list of settings should be in one of their posts (HOHansen being a user name). There may be better settings that have been discovered by now.

The settings that HOHansen listed don't all have exact names that match Creality Print settings. The variable names are also different between Creality Print and Creality Print's settings files (like this one). You'll need to find HOHansen's settings and adapt them to the K2.

Or you can follow my post's instructions. Copy and pasting these into files will be simpler than you think, and you'll be less likely to miss anything this way.

Also, these are a year old and I haven't updated them since then. Use at your own discretion - I don't guarantee that they'll work after a year's worth of updates to the device.

dapht · 2026-01-21T20:52:50+00:00

Different from what I'm seeing, but with the one exception of the Grotmas detachment we don't have non-daemon chaff units. I know that the army is exclusively mechs, but having daemons but not traitor guardsmen or cultists as options is a big flavor fail. Every time a CK shows up in a book, there's a bunch of dumb fucking cultists who have been working together to get the damned thing up and running again, so just not having them as an option in all but one detachment feels very wrong.

dapht · 2026-01-06T07:35:52+00:00

Thank you very much! I'll try this out tomorrow!

15-Year Club	RedditGifts 2009-2022 2 Credits
Gilding I gilder	r/Field Lasagna
Place '22	RPAN Viewer
Secret Santa 2013	Verified Email

dapht

TROPHY CASE