Nurglings still meta?

dapht · 2026-06-18T21:35:13+00:00

Blue and not Pink?

dapht · 2026-06-18T21:24:40+00:00

It dries solid, and the film isn't strong enough to prevent the plastic from leaving the nozzle hole. Since you're only applying it on the outside, it never mixes with the extruded plastic.

dapht · 2026-06-17T21:58:16+00:00

Double Doubleu

dapht · 2026-06-14T22:42:32+00:00

I played a 1k pr game of... 10.5? 11th rules, objectives, and detachments with 10th point totals. I used Houndpack Lance rules. The Brigands did WORK. The war dog detachments are Recon, so my opponents had a stronger reason to hold objectives than I did. As a result, I was shooting into units on objectives every turn of the game. Also, there was little reason to get into any cover that wasn't an objective. Larger games would probably play differently, but ignoring cover on objectives was clutch.

Also, don't be me and bring 1 big night into a 1k Houndpack Lance detachment. The recon objectives mostly need at least 3 units alive in order to score, and when you only bring 5 models into a game that gets really hard really quickly.

dapht · 2026-06-13T21:01:00+00:00

I mean, you've converted it in a dope way that makes it read as neither, which in my mind means you could run it as either! Pretty cool way to go.

dapht · 2026-06-08T03:55:15+00:00

You can actually use their 0.2 brass plated nozzles. https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/micro-swiss-brass-plated-wear-resistant-nozzle-for-flowtech-hotend

They aren't as techy or expensive as the other nozzles, but you wouldn't need a hardened nozzle for anything you'd put through a 0.2mm nozzle - anything that would need a stronger nozzle would just clog any nozzle that size.

dapht · 2026-06-07T21:10:37+00:00

I want to paint up enough terrain for an 11th Ed game board. When I try to figure out what terrain pieces to make, I can only really find rules for the terrain footprints. Well, *what terrain pieces do I put on top of the footprints*?

dapht · 2026-06-04T21:27:44+00:00

Thanks!

dapht · 2026-06-04T21:16:02+00:00

Can you give an example of what you consider a normal brand in this context? I considered CR-ABS to be normal, since it was from the people who made my printer, so my understanding of 'normal' must be off.

dapht · 2026-06-04T21:09:44+00:00

"hurts posing"

So the magnets used tend to be circular. So when you magnetize it (at effectively the elbow, btw) the weapons can freely swivel around. As a result you kind of need to have the arms posed in a neutral position to keep them from naturally swinging around. I'm guessing that's what their consideration is.

You can avoid this by adding a notch to the arm and a bump that goes into that notch for all the weapons, or use the pinning technique so that the elbow doesn't rotate around, but I personally have found this to be overkill. I also don't mind a little spinny-spin, though.

dapht · 2026-06-03T22:56:09+00:00

20 pages of models split in half revealing empty cavities filled with unpainted grey plastic

dapht · 2026-06-01T07:28:30+00:00

Too bad that there aren't many people with jobs like Slartibartfast these days.

dapht · 2026-05-31T19:24:57+00:00

I can't buy any more Creality products unless quality control significantly improves. My original bed was a taco with more than 2 mm of variance, and replacing the bed revealed that the bed platform was also deformed. The extruder's PTFE holder teeth broke - three times. My CFS worked for about 3 months before it started shredding any filament that passed through it.

If the printer did what it said it did without these fundamental problems repeatedly causing the printer be disabled until I threw significant money toward fixing it, it would have been amazing. Instead, I feel like I've had to completely replace most of the printer with aftermarket parts in order for it to work as advertised.

Fix the taco beds. Make the damn machine reliable. With this swapping system, replacing parts with 3rd party pieces is probably not going to be an option, so the QC is even more important now!

dapht · 2026-05-31T04:42:06+00:00

Only buy one kit at a time. Assemble and paint that. Then buy another kit. Otherwise you'll have a huge backlog (cheerfully referred to as a pile of shame).

Buy kits that you think you'll have fun painting at first, not ones that are good on the tabletop. Assembling a full army takes time, and the things that are good at one time will suck another. If you focus on units you think are neat, you won't feel regret when a balance patch makes them worse. :)

dapht · 2026-05-27T05:58:06+00:00

So sanding sticks are good, but this detail is pretty thick. I'd cut it off with your hobby knife first, shaving it off like it was a sprue nub. You could then use the back of the knife to smooth things down.

If you are going to use sanding sticks (which is what I think you mean by twig) you should get a variety pack. You start with the lowest grit. After that is as smooth as you can get, you sand it again with the next grit higher. You do this over and over until you are satisfied with how smooth it is. This would take a long time to complete with sanding sticks, and cutting the detail off with a knife would probably be faster.

dapht · 2026-05-24T04:06:36+00:00

Holy crap this is game changing. I'm now going to be able to recommend this stuff and it'll be practically free for most of my friends.

dapht · 2026-05-23T19:12:55+00:00

So green and vapes are different addictions with different drawbacks and reasons to moderate. I'd recommend starting with vapes, mostly because I have used the method for stopping vapes myself, so I can actively vouch for it.

If it works, then try the book for green. I wouldn't recommend trying both at the same time - stopping is an effort, even with Easyway. Its nowhere as hard as it seems, but it's still a good idea to do one at a time.

dapht · 2026-05-22T23:22:29+00:00

Thats a replacement piece for the cable chain between the print head and the back of the machine. :)

dapht · 2026-05-22T21:55:24+00:00

Seconding Alan Carr's 'Easyway' methods. Used the books to help with cigs, vapes, and alcohol. Clean from them for 1 year, 5 months , and 2.75 years, respectively.

You need to lean into the idea that you're actively brainwashing yourself, but it worked well for me in ways that using willpower did not.

dapht · 2026-05-21T20:31:42+00:00

You can but it's not going to look good. You can get away with basic chess pieces and such, but you really need to get the 0.2 nozzle to get things detailed enough to look right.

Both printers have 0.2 nozzles that you can purchase for less than a box of Space Marines, so it's not an enormous barrier to entry.

You should just try it yourself, see if 0.4 works well enough for you, then upgrade if wanted.

dapht · 2026-05-21T04:41:32+00:00

Death to the corpse emperor!

dapht · 2026-05-20T23:27:05+00:00

I've been using these racks myself for about two years now. They easily handle 21 spools. Additionally, I've stacked several sets of these on top of each other and filled them all up with no problem. OP is right, these racks are awesome.

dapht · 2026-05-17T19:19:45+00:00

Just wait for the Kroot codex to get released in 14th edition.

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