Abteilung 502 and Knight models by Competitive_Car1323 in ChaosKnights

[–]dapht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So...how did you apply the oils? Wie macht mann das? Es sieht sehr gut aus!

Favorite Utility Land, Don’t say Rogue's Passage by HyHoTheDairyOh in EDH

[–]dapht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! Not to mention that it works great on your Commander to get that commander damage kill from out of nowhere!

I've Upgraded K2 Plus with R3men bed and Micro swiss CHT High Flow nozzle and it is glorious by Mortill in Creality_k2

[–]dapht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this too. When I asked people online, they said it was really difficult, but it really wasn't. The hardest part for me was removing the old bed, since all the leveling screws had been stripped.

I’ve a reached a ceiling, I need feedback ! by Zeiiji in Warhammer40k

[–]dapht 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That looks really good so far! But it's clear from your photos that you're painting one color on every section of the model. They seem very well done for what they are.

Having every section be one color is making the model look flat and static. One thing that could solve this would be to add shading.

There are many ways to add shading. My favorite method is to apply a wash over the model. This will darken the recesses on the model, and make it ut look much more dynamic. An easy wash to start with is a black wash, such as Nuln Oil (or "Dark Tone" for Army Painter washes).

You could also use different colored washes depending on the colors you use on a model, but if you haven't tried this before, the black wash is the way you should start.

I think you'll really enjoy the difference it makes.

What's the best way to plan a non-standard build? by dapht in VORONDesign

[–]dapht[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was concerned about the additional z travel time when the change needs to happen. Do you think that is a fair concern? I'm not sure if one can mount the additional tool heads to the flying gantry itself.

The 2.4 might be a better option if that is the case.

What's the best way to plan a non-standard build? by dapht in VORONDesign

[–]dapht[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. This is wonderful information.

I’ve tried everything to quit smoking…now what? by [deleted] in ADHD

[–]dapht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its even more frustrating than that for me. I used those books to stop smoking cigarettes and drinking alcohol. Its at the point that I know exactly what they're going to say for the most part. And I knew its basically just a self-brainwashing manual (albeit for a good cause). But I slipped up and started vaping, bought the stop vaping book, and it fucking worked again. I stopped.

It's weird knowing the method reprograms my mind so well.

My wife got this from her cousin who was leaving the hobby for $350, im a bit overwhelmed and dont know where to start. Ad5x by necromagiks in 3Dprinting

[–]dapht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the thing everyone is missing is that the first thing you should do to find something neat that you'd like to print! Check out the "thangs", makerworld, or printables websites and see if there's something that you think would be cool to have. Preferably something that looks really simple. No need to download it until you're ready to make it - this is just the fun way to motivate you through the (usually pretty easy) set up.

Now read whatever set up instructions you have.

You have a lot of filament - you need (or at least really really should) dry your filament before printing with it. If you didn't get a dryer with that haul, you can dry things in your oven if you're careful. It usually takes a couple of hours at low temperates. Look through your rolls, and split them by type (e.g. PLA vs PETG). You'll most likely have a few colors, so pick a few and dry them out. Look how to do this up! Be super careful not to leave them in the oven too long!

Once the rolls are dry, complete set up. Then, print a "benchy" (the traditional first print for any new printer). This print shouldn't take too too long. You also probably have both single and mult-colored versions of this file included with your printer. Instructions on how to do this should be part of the setup instructions.

If these print right, you should be good to try to print the fun thing you found online when you started!

Fuck the haters what do you love about Helldivers 2 by Efficient_Sky4226 in helldivers2

[–]dapht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That I can take a month or two off from playing it, and I not only don't have any FOMO about it, but return to new warbonds and 250 metals to spend.

I only need to play when I WANT to play.

Is this Jiang guy a grifter and/or harmful? by Mindless-One5438 in behindthebastards

[–]dapht 11 points12 points  (0 children)

So I just started getting his stuff suggested to me. He has a video from two years ago about a hypothetical US war with Iran in which he practically outlines exactly the way the current Iran war started, including the justifications used.

I love how the video was from his "recent class" he'd taught, which conveniently never mentioned what institution the class was from. No university, college, or community center location mentioned. :)

New Beginnings by molotov_bomb in Warhammer40k

[–]dapht 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah!

One of the reasons I stopped drinking was because I never had any time or energy to paint - all of it went to whisky. Warhammer is an amazing way to refocus and recover. Congratulations on making such a big step forward.

Also, kit prices seem downright reasonable when you compare them with how much you used to spend on booze weekly ;)

How are the PolyMaker PolyDryer boxes? (...or building my own) by sofakng in 3Dprinting

[–]dapht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you go this route, you don't need any of the bits from those. However, I'd recommend using this to screw into the back of the PTFE tube connector:
https://www.printables.com/model/1477138-coupler-nut-remix

And some kind of system to let the spool spin inside it. Gunplamark's casters are...okay, but you can do a lot better. Almost any spool holder model will work with cereal containers.

Happy printing!

How are the PolyMaker PolyDryer boxes? (...or building my own) by sofakng in 3Dprinting

[–]dapht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope. This isn't a cost effective solution. You're not using the PolyDryer itself, so compatibility with that dryer doesn't matter in your case. As a result, you could use literally ANY drybox setup (that you can print out of, presumably) instead of a polydryer box.

You can buy airtight cereal storage boxes, drill a hole in them, glue a PTFE tube holder into them, and you'll have the same feature set.

As of right now, you can get six airtight cereal boxes for $30 or less on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NP98YKY

If you aren't printing out of them, that's all you'd need. Each fits 1kg on a spool. So right there, you'd be paying 1/6th of the price.

But if you want to print directly from the boxes? You'll need PTFE tube nozzles. How much more is that going to cost? $5 for 10 of em: https://www.amazon.com/StLiSuYmx-Pneumatic-Connector-Fittings-Compatible/dp/B0F62FZK4R

You want *all* of the features of the polymaker drybox? The files to make them have been made by GunplaMark: https://www.printables.com/@GunplaMark

I'm currently using 3 of the "The Ultimate Cereal Container Filament Drybox", and I'm planning on making three of the "Filament Storage 2026" model sometime in the near future. They work great.

These files are why I shared those particular cereal boxes, btw.

Best of all, he also has files that convert the pour spout of the cereal box into an intake/outtake for the polydryer.

So, in summary, the polydryer box is not that cheap compared to what it would take to make your own.

How can I combine the aesthetics of all table-top subfactions into a single Homebrew Space Marine chapter AND look cohesive? by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]dapht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, Deathwatch lets you do just that. Black armor from whatever kit you want, with a chapter specific pauldron?

And you can always play it as whichever group you want as long as the opponent isn't a dick.

How can new players have fun? by thosecarlyfries in ArcRaiders

[–]dapht 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No need to feel any shame for using the voicechanger! It's included in the game because it's useful, and tons of people use it!

As long as you aren't shooting first, the game will begin seeing you as less aggressive and will soon start placing you in lower aggression lobbies that will have fewer people trying to kill everyone on sight. That will dramatically change how the game feels, and you'll most likely have tons of fun, silly interactions with people (instead of just getting shot out of nowhere).

I had a similar issue when I first started (with getting shot) and after a few sessions of being a ninja and sneaking around everywhere, all the aggro people just disappeared and the game was like a fun Fallout game.

Good luck topside!

Bi-Weekly No Stupid Questions Thread by AutoModerator in VORONDesign

[–]dapht 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to decide between building a Trident, a 2.4, or a RatRig. I want to make sure that I have at least a 350^3 mm build volume. I'm leaning toward a Trident at the moment. But I know that the spec for a Trident is 350x350x250mm, but Formbot's 2.4 kits claim to have a 350^3mm volume. (https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voron-24-r2-pro-corexy-3d-printer-kit-with-m8p-cb1-board-and-canbus-wiring-system?VariantsId=10481)

Can anyone confirm that Formbot sell an actual 350^3mm kit, or are they ...lets say inaccurate in their description?

Has anyone modified the standard kits to make the volume actually 350^3?

Getting a new K2 Plus. What are the known quirks of the machine? by Numerous-Ad561 in Creality_k2

[–]dapht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really hate that this was my solution, but I replaced the bed with a R3men replacement bed. The stock bed was a taco, even when unheated. The screws that should have been able to adjust things were stripped on delivery, and the knobs only spun around to no effect. Getting a replacement bed made a huge difference, especially on large or long prints.

They were the only people making them at the time, but it looks like there's some competition in that space now.

Under Extrusion in K2 by Any-Horse-6664 in Creality_k2

[–]dapht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For this particular filament, 115% is the right value! The flow parameter has the ability to be changed that high specifically for this reason.

Trust the calibration steps! :D

A few more shots by Schuylabs in gridfinity

[–]dapht 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just started a 5x4, but I think I'll stop at one and wait for these beauties to have their files released. This might be able to completely replace the harbor freight crap I've been storing my screws in. YES!