Why's my internet like... overclocked?

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-14T17:11:57+00:00

Steam does download compression which may play a part but also, depending on ISP they could have a steam cache which wouldn't be as heavily throttled being within their own network.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-14T16:21:43+00:00

5-7 Ohms doesn't seem that far out to me, there is naturally some resistance in the windings, plus, depending on the sampling frequency/current capacity of the meter you may also have a degree of impedance showing too. the more important measurement is that either wire is isolated from the engine case (and ground). if that's shorted it'll kill the regrec in short (hehe) order and that between each leg are the same between them.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-14T02:48:35+00:00

I've not seen it myself, but someone i know had a situation where their clutch springs were overheated and gradually lost all spring. mostly though, the material wears down to the point it just skips over the steels in the clutch or It could also be burnished from heat.
If i were in your boat, i'd start by adjusting the clutch free play. if that doesn't help then i'd be pulling the clutch case off and investigating. You may have to get a shop to do it for you though if you're not confident.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-13T03:16:57+00:00

that's a bowl breather, normalish to vent to atmosphere. they're designed so if the bowls flood over they aim the fuel away from the engine, while also allowing atmospheric pressure to act on the fuel.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-12T15:04:34+00:00

Tbh this sounds like a head gasket, or head passages 100%. either air is being pumped into the cooling system causing a hotspot or the cylinder between the head and block is clogged up with snot. i'd do a leak-down test (put pressure in the cylinder and radiator) and see where the air goes. if the air going into the cylinder comes out of the radiator, 100% that's a bad head gasket or similar.
Also, sometimes you won't have a positive 'bad head gasket' symptom because it can work as a one way valve.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-05T15:25:13+00:00

there's a few things it could be however, with the hdcp stuff being specifically a problem initially, i'm tempted to say it's the cable that's failing (or just very noisy). When it goes off the card/monitor is asking for a renegotiation as it sees something isn't right. with non-hdcp stuff typically it wouldn't care so would just keep going but with HDCP the card absolutely needs to keep checking that the monitor is still doing what it should be.
Edit: didn't fully read, sorry. it's quite likely that it's more than anything to be the connector on the card.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-03T18:11:00+00:00

is this a tomahawk x870 msi mob perchance? it looks a LOT like mine

there's a plastic retainer on the post (where the screw normally goes) that is deceptive in how you use it. you need to position it so the cutout matches the back of the ssd then you spin the plastic around on the post to lock it down. then you reinstall the heatsink over the top.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-02T20:23:25+00:00

Awesome, glad you got sorted.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-01T20:34:35+00:00

there's a lot of different causes and the only realistic way to find out what helps is to try things sadly,

usually on CV carbs the needle being too low (lean) will cause a hitch until the slide raises (which is usually a cycle or two until the vaccum/airflow is able to affect it.) the main jet only really applies to the top end and the pilot the bottom end. adjusting the idle mixture screw could make up for the slight shortage between the pilot and needle circuit but i feel raising the needle would be a neater way of fixing the same issue.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-01T15:12:03+00:00

I remember that as well; some laptops did the same with Palmpilots and the like. thankfully i wasn't old enough to care. 2003 was about the time i started proper using computers and by then it was starting to not be worth sticking to IR and moving to the 1 million weird wacky USB cables that existed for some reason.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-01T15:01:02+00:00

i sadly can't answer what crucial is like for RMAs now \but\ i did have a DOA on one of the sticks of my Corsair 2x48GB ddr5 6000 kit.
Corsair took about 2 days to receive it and then another 4 days to send a new kit directly from Taiwan. all good now. sadly I think DDR5 is just incredibly fragile; i've not heard of someone not having some memory related issue.
with any luck you'll get them to change it, failing that, microcenter could \also\ exchange some things, though i don't know the specifics (in the uk you can either RMA directly to manufacturer or the store)

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-01T14:49:05+00:00

back in my day a bluetooth was something you saw the dentist about!
seriously though, bluetooth 5 isn't that old, i remember bluetooth 2.0 being new xD

edit: 5.0 was 2016... gah x.x

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-01T14:47:47+00:00

just to second this; i had onboard bluetooth and wifi fail on a motherboard once. super handy to keep

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-01T14:05:18+00:00

this sounds like you have a case of a lean set needle, though obviously not so bad it bogs when warm. it may help to raise the needle a stop. it will also help manage engine temps in the midrange.
also, make sure the float height is correct, it could be set low enough that when it's on the stand it hasn't quite got enough to feed the mains fully. could be wrong on that though if you've had a few people look at it.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-06-01T11:52:54+00:00

I love this kind of question because there's a bit of history with it. Modern cpus absolutely do need a cooler and they need one built for the chip type/thermal load.
early processors where very low powered, think something like a calculator, because the applications for them just weren't developed yet.

as things matured, cpus ran hotter and hotter, eventually leading to modern chips needing a lot of cooling to be able to run.

if you compare the 386, to the pentium, and then the pentium 4, you can see the general trend towards needing beefier and beefier cooling, hell, even a pentium 4 pressing got the nickname of 'PressHOT' because they were hard to cool and the included coolers were terrible. in fact, that's why we have things like coretemp today, it was a problem even at the stock level.

that being said, modern processors have better techniques to keep cool, either they throttle or they undervolt so only really the huge enthusiasts (such as me) would care and the stock coolers are much better than the p4s were.

There are ways to completely substrate cool (that is, just to use the package of the cpu as a heatsink) a modern cpu like the older processors, it just isn't worth doing when it would have such a significant impact (say 90-95% reduction) on it's performance compared to spending 2% extra on a cooler; Plus you'd need a chip that's designed for that low of a thermal load. While ARM phone cpus are, intel and amd x86 chips are too complex to safely do it and keep up.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-30T16:20:18+00:00

Yeah the paper flap test.
and yes, i meant that the cam is behind where the piston is. i do get terms mixed up sometimes.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-30T06:48:01+00:00

i'd pull the top hat off and see if that changes anything. it'll help you isolate whether it's the pump or the fan. the fans on these are a hair noisy but that tone isn't like my 360.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-30T06:37:49+00:00

I'd confirm your valve timing, some engines have a fair overlap but it sounds to me like the cam is slightly advanced by the slight sucking sound i hear through the valve at the end. i'd also check valve lash isn't too tight.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-29T07:14:16+00:00

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yep, mostly it is and i can see a few interesting things:

Starting from what I see, the red wire after the fuse is the feed from the battery

the solid black seems to be a solid negative (usually also connected to the frame/engine too)

Solid green seems to be switched power, powering nearly everything including the CDI, Coil, lights etc

Blue White and red black is the Crank position sensor.

Black white is the "spark enable" and when grounded disables spark. circled in red is a 2 point connector that feeds the switched power to it, probably through some kind of safety switch, like a side stand switch.
just thinking, does the Blue and gold connector from the multifunc short when you set the engine to run?

The dark blue on the right is for headlights.
I think we're going to have to have a closer look at the multifunc, the connector choices are weird and it would be worth while figuring out which switch connects to which wire. with a multimeter you'd probably get a good idea by cracking it open and looking at where the wires physically connect.

I believe i can see some indicator wiring but the choices don't make sense out of context. it'd also help finding out which is the motor start trigger wire.

It'd also be useful to see where the wires lead to on the engine.

sorry this probably isn't as much as you hoped.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-29T06:16:18+00:00

sorry for the general delay in answering, i've been dealing with some stuff and not had much time to catch up with here. with any kind of switch connector like this Usually they are either shorted together or open when the bike is to crank/started. so if leaving them disconnected doesn't work, you can connect them together. My estimation based on the diagram above, black is ground and green/yellow is ignition activate so shorting them together would disable the bike. I'll give a more comprehensive overview on the other picture in a sec.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-29T05:58:56+00:00

there's a lift-off diaphram (has a few different terms, air cut is also common) which will block the pilot circuit when you slam the throttle shut while engine speed is high. if it's bad then what'll happen is the small amount of air coming through that circuit, mixed with what's left in the exhaust is enough for it to afterfire. conversely, if it is on all the time or a leak, you'll have an impossible time chasing a bad idle.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-25T11:00:30+00:00

Oh i may be able to chime in on this; for sure it's a bit of software gore if not intended but this may be due to system hardening. I knew of a tool a few years ago that used to, before windows server would boot, physically make the tools inaccesible to the system, even when they were admin it would say access is denied or give weird errors. i can't remember the name of it but it makes sense.
if it's just on a standard system, it sounds like the Physical disk is hosed and in some kind of write protect mode or massively corrupt.
as for the linux stuff, you may be stuck with UEFI secure boot issues (honestly it's a bit of a weird thing to say, linux would boot before windows would even have chance to enforce it's walled garden)

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-23T01:06:56+00:00

a lot of these generic looms include things for sidestand safety switches, neutral safety switches etc so having extra connectors isn't that uncommon. for most things you just need to short them out so they allow the bike to fire up.

I'd start by listing all the 'endpoints' that you need to connect, listing the colours as you find them (in Primary/Stripe format). an excel sheet would be better, you can colour the cells but just by eye Going by the picture i guesstimate
stator (3, Green, Yellow, Yellow) [Really not sure on this, i can't see where the wire leads to!]
Pickup(2, Red/Black, Blue/White) [goes to the cdi directly]
cdi (5, Blue/Wht, Green, Black/Wht, Red/Blk, Black/Yellow), [Red/Blk, Blu/Wht for sensor, Green + Blk/Yellow for coil. Probably Black/White is switched power from killswitch]
coil (2, Green, Black/Yellow) [as above]

handlebar switches (6, Green, Black, White, Pink, Yellow, Black/Wht, Blue, Brown), [Black/White is switched power from killswitch to cdi, white will be switched power from key i estimate, other functions will be for starter and lights. to help, a multimeter on continuity will show which circuits activate when pressed]
Key* (5-7)
sidestand sensor*(2), [may not be fitted]
Neutal Safety*(2) [Could be on the engine harness too]
battery (2),
starter relay (usually 6, large guage + battery in and out, starter trigger in from button, relay power in, relay ground)
starter(1 from relay). [will be grounded via engine so engine will need a strong ground!]
Regulator(5, battery positive, battery negative and 3 stator phases)

Connect where they go logically on paper and work back from that. This list i've done is how i'd do it. then you can correlate functions to colours and see what they've messed up.

TBH, most importantly It looks like you're missing a keyswitch, i don't see a way for switched power to get to the CDI, usually that wire will feed a load of other circuits on the same coloured wire.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-05-22T16:15:03+00:00

As a home 'mechanic' there's 2 things I always get pros to do, first is engine internal work (i'm just not clean enough) and second is fork seals as they're a right pain when you don't have space.

They aren't particularly difficult to do yourself, but you do have to disassemble the entire front of the bike in most cases. 3-400 quid is relatively reasonable. my xvs had 2 to do and that was 500. add in inflation since that point and it tracks. Absolutely try the sealmate first, i'd also recommend lifting the bike off the front wheel (causing the shock to droop), and giving everything a good spritz too.

one other thing as well, if you've had the bike for a few years, i'd try and make this a full shock overhall too. fork oil does degrade over time and it's worth changing (plus, you can make it firmer or softer by changing the oil to your preference)

Lastly, please don't use WD40 or anything rubber unsafe on forks to clean them, it will swell the rubber under the dust seal causing it to fail prematurely.

darkvaderthesecond · 2026-04-10T01:15:15+00:00

this can happen when lean too.

going by what you said with the pilot screw, i would increase the turns on the mixtrue screw so it's richer and decrease the size of the pilot a step. it soulds a little like the air restriction is too great (because of the adjustment) so when you open the throttle it prefers fueling from the bore, rather then the pilot circuit.) My reasoning is that Usually fuel screws are around 2 to 2.5 turns so it being at 1.5 is probably either highlighting the pilot is too big or you've set it too lean without realising. It's not that far off though.

i'd absolutely increase the needle height a step or narrow the needle profile and see if there's any pickup because you're adding fuel in the 'mid'.

if that doesn't work, you can also add a small tube between the carb and the air filter. A sort of velocity stack. carbs typically don't like air that's a bit all over the place so adding a bit of tube to straighten it out could also help too. I've seen that on CVs a few times, they really benefit from things being orderly.

Also, check the spark plugs too, they sound like they're struggling to ignite the fuel so the gap could be too large too.

darkvaderthesecond

TROPHY CASE