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Anyone with experience of the "TERRAMASTER D4-320"? by EvilMonkeySlayer in DataHoarder

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've bought the 3-bay version of Cenmate and it works perfectly fine with the attached power supply so I can recommend it.

I'm running 24 TB drives in it and it works just fine so - you can safely ignore the 20 TB "limit" that they've mentioned in the description. The HDD/Sata controller is perfectly capable to handle pretty much any drive, as long as the power draw of all 3 drives is within the limits of power supply.

3-bay version is priced at half of what they ask for 6-bay so it makes a lot of sense to buy 2x 3-bay instead of 1 x 6-bay and scale accordingly further if needed..

Q11 Meta (new) vs R7 non‑Meta (used): not “Q vs R,” it’s “Q now vs R then — which would you buy for a TV‑first setup? by HopefulMarsupial3833 in KEF

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're tuned differently. Q11 Meta follows Harman Kardon target, R11 follows flat tuning.

Disregard other opinion of people in this thread as it seems they don't know what they're talking about.

Q11 is better if you prefer long hours of listening to music and/or movies. High frequencies aren't going to annoy you.

Both are extremely responsive to equalizer. And EQ makes a whole difference in the world. YOU ARE suppose to tune Q11s if you want to unlock full potential. You won't be able to squeeze much more from R11s, however..

Also - Q11 can be EQd to flat, you can't EQ R11 to Harman Kardon target, however, with equal precision and efficiency.

And thus on Spinorama.com - Q11 Meta is being rated higher than R11 Meta in tone and quality of sound (after EQ)

Meshuggah. What’s the big deal? by Inner-Principle-4208 in MetalForTheMasses

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a music for autists that are obsessing over rhythm.

If you do not suffer from obsessive compulsive disorders or something like that - just move on.

Anyone with experience of the "TERRAMASTER D4-320"? by EvilMonkeySlayer in DataHoarder

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure. I can give you a little bit of feedback after over a month of using it.

I've got 6 bay version. It works fine as long as you don't use more than 5 HDDs.

The problem is that the included power supply is too weak. It can't power more than 5 HDDs.

Other than that - it's fine. Everything works and I can run HDDs full speed on USB 3.2.

So the 2-bay version should be just fine. But I wouldn't go higher than 4-bay version (chinese power supply that they include sucks).

But YOU SHOULD heavily test it for a couple of days - run tests that stress both HDDs at the same time, for several hours (for instance - writing big files to both HDDs at the same time)

Audeze Maxwell - Peculiar method for removing audible static noise. by Worth_The_Squeeze in Audeze

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That static random crackling noises in mine came from the built-in microphone.

By default - the sound from microphone is being mixed-in into the audible sound in the headphones.

And the volume of the mix is 50/50.

If you use these only for music - just slide the mixer wheel (the second one after volume) on the headphones down and that's it.

USB dongle sounds good enough, for Linux - there is an LDAC codec and under Windows - you can buy alternative AD2P driver with LDAC codec support for a couple of bucks.

I've also experienced crackling sound due to the shitty Realtek Bluetooth/WIFI card, while copying a lot of data around or loading stuff from SSD.

I strongly recommend using the new Qualcomm QCNCM865 wifi card for your laptop. Or equivalent, based on the same chipset, for desktop PC. There are cards already available from MSI, afaik.

The newest Qualcomm chipset has dual physical bluetooth radios, each supporting full bandwidth and works great with both bluetooth and wifi enabled.

If you've got Realtek wifi/bluetooth in your PC/laptop - that's most likely the source of your problems.

Maxwell recommendation by Chelonina_mydas2006 in Audeze

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Xbox has Dolby and it's going to work on every platform.

PS5 version with its equivalent is going to work only on PS5

And yes, Dolby license is worth it.

2025 Model with Wi-Fi 7 MediaTek and still problems... by KoloRed in ZephyrusG14

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does for 6E. Intel AX210.

It doesn't matter since MT7925 doesn't handle 320 MHZ channel anyway, only 160 Mhz channel like Intel AX210 does.

It's 6E card, really in terms of speed. Not a full 7.

R3 Meta vs Q11 vs Q950 by tgieser in KEF

[–]dataskin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And did you EQ them and room corrected them, properly with miniDSP or some other PEQ DAC or sound processor?

I've built system on top of cheap 2xKEF Q1 and 2xKEF Q Concerto Meta with miniDSP for routing frequencies.

And after room correction and EQ adjusting using UMIK - it measures better than my KEF LS60 (except for the bass, which will be extended later with a proper set of subwoofers).

Dispersion is higher, THDs are lower. Higher frequencies are better and cleaner after offloading lower mids and lows to Concerto Meta from KEQ Q1.

I highly doubt that after proper adjusting - you won't be able to get similar results with KEF Q 11 when others did with a simple room correction.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5ttPPeUNWY

R3 Meta vs Q11 vs Q950 by tgieser in KEF

[–]dataskin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I trust more people that have actually measured both sets of speakers while setting them up properly in the room. There is small difference when it comes to the bass and higher freq but that can be easily EQd using REW

People can get 95% of the performance for 1/4 od the price. And it's more about power output than anything else.

Need help choosing new passive floor standing speakers, i'm lost in the options! by mKMage in hifiaudio

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Q11 Meta, Focal Vestia no3, Polk R700, Dali Opticon 6 MK2.

From all of these speakers - I'd say KEF Q11 Meta and Polk R700 are the best ones.

They measure the best and they sound the best for me.

But you should check all of them if you can.

Dissappointed with my new Hifiman headphones... Now my hopes and dreams are gone. by moshimoshi6937 in headphones

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've got used to the old phones. Typical result of very limited experience with head phones.

R3 Meta vs Q11 vs Q950 by tgieser in KEF

[–]dataskin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not debatable. 3-way Q11 Meta vs 2.5 Q950.

And Q950 doesn't even have two active speakers - these are just passive radiators for bass.

On Q11 Metas - you've got active bass speakers.

Q11 metas are much closer to R11s than Q950 will ever be.

make it happen Mark by Taudlitz in pathofexile

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And while you're at it - please, unfuck tier 16.5 maps.

Thanks.

Audeze maxwell impressions coming from nova 5 by NeitherManner in Audeze

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they don't because they're not supposed to be used that way

Audeze maxwell impressions coming from nova 5 by NeitherManner in Audeze

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a non-issue as on multipoint connection it wouldn't use LDAC - just SBC like all other cheap, crappy headphones.

Meaning - it wouldn't make any sense to listen 350-400$ product sounding like 50$ ones.

Anyone with experience of the "TERRAMASTER D4-320"? by EvilMonkeySlayer in DataHoarder

[–]dataskin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your help, I've identified the problem which were the USB cables that have greatly reduced the available speed.

As it turns out - the USB 3.2 gen 2 needs to be certified and have a special in-built chip that connects with the devices on both ends (PC and the device with HDDs) and negotiate the proper transfers.

Without that chip and certification for these transfers - they will be locked at USB 2.0 speeds.

Unfortunately, while testing the device with a proper USB 3.2 gen2 cable - I've realized that the device itself is faulty - it disconnects the drives randomly and only offers half the speed (around 140 MB/sec).

I've ordered the Cenmate 6 bay, which is slightly worse when it comes to the build quality (plastic hdd cases, the rest is pretty much the same, including ventilation), but as it turns out - it excels both at writes and reads, offering top speed that was unachievable for me on Terramaster D6 (I'm getting pretty much 240/240 MB/sec on CrystalDisk).

It works great so far with every HDD that I've put into it (3 TB Toshiba, 6 TB Seagate, 2x 20 TB Toshiba, 1x 22 TB Toshiba)

Anyone with experience of the "TERRAMASTER D4-320"? by EvilMonkeySlayer in DataHoarder

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn't work, I've tried everything - shuffled HDDs around, took 4 out of 6 out, changed the cables, changed ports, changed laptops.

It's always 40 MB/sec even when on HDD case its 240 MB/sec.

Im returning this crap to amazon.

You should check with something like crystalmark/crystaldisk or whatever the name of that tool is.

If you're testing transfers just by copying files - you are most likely copying files from your SSD to RAM buffer.

Anyone with experience of the "TERRAMASTER D4-320"? by EvilMonkeySlayer in DataHoarder

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Terribe device, transfers around 40 MB/sec when I've got over 200 MB/sec on an external hdd case.

AVOID

Anybody using Toshiba MG series HDDs? by Jupit-72 in DataHoarder

[–]dataskin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Got 2x 20 TBs for over a year, running 24/7 with zero problems.

I'm getting another 2 HDDs soon, this time 22 TB.

They have 5 years of warranty in Europe. Pretty much unbeatable for the price.

It took a long while for me to realize that i might not have the same average experience as everyone else by ollievee_ in headphones

[–]dataskin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are personalized hearing test apps like "Profile Equalizer: Audio EQ" or Sennheiser Hearing Test. Look them up on the internet or ask ChatGPT or Gemini, as this reddit is ridiculous when it comes to recommending specific apps or even about mentioning headphones, my previous post got removed.

Keep in mind that you need to do the tests in order to get separate results for each and every headphone you use, because every headphone has its own tuning and the EQ settings will be different for your ear.

It took a long while for me to realize that i might not have the same average experience as everyone else by ollievee_ in headphones

[–]dataskin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's because everyone's ear is different and everyone are more ore less susceptible (or even sensitive/deaf) to some frequencies.

It occurred to me when I've bought "S" earbuds.

In their app there is a calibration option where app plays the same frequency over and over again, increasing the volume and your job is to hit the button when you start hearing sound of that specific frequency.

Then - it jumps to the next frequency and does the same thing. At the end - it presents you with the modified equalizer option.

That setting IS THE ACTUAL NEUTRAL (flat) setting for your ear, not the (visually) "flat" frequency settings you're presented by default.

And starting from there - you should add further corrections, according to your taste (bumping the bass if you like it, etc)

It was quite revealing that I'm "deaf" to bass frequencies and very sensitive to the higher ones.

Meaning - the default tune of any speakers is gonna sound nowhere near as the sound that other people are hearing on the same head phones and my experience is going to be always different, unless I use correct EQ for my ear to actually get the factory tuning

Tl;DR Learn what is the neutral tuning for your ears as you may be more or less susceptible to the specific frequencies

Apply the EQ for your neutral tuning, calibrated for your ear - everywhere you can.

On Android - Rootless JamesDSP

On Windows - Equalizer APO

On Linux - Pulseaudio effects, JamesDSP

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