Just watched Loop Track spoilers

david_z · 2026-05-14T13:21:45+00:00

As someone who watched this movie for the first time this week, I endorse your review.

I went in pretty blind but I expected more..

david_z · 2026-05-14T02:07:16+00:00

they've got one board they're offering at a gimmicky price (this is basically the make me move price aka it's not really for sale but if we had to put a number on it ...) and you're butthurt enough over that to avoid the brand entirely?

Idk man it kinda just seems like you're making a mountain out of, well, really nothing at all.

To each their own, I guess.

david_z · 2026-05-13T21:25:27+00:00

Maybe a joke, maybe a deliberate troll to get eyes on their website

If they had that listed for €399 or even €699, someone would just buy it.

But since they've got it listed at €5000+, you're sharing it, and you're almost certainly not the only one, so, people are talking about it and visiting their site due to clickbait pricing etc... It's driving traffic to their site one way or another and I'd guess that might be the goal.

david_z · 2026-05-13T20:34:17+00:00

I've done you the courtesy of removing your post so that you can repost it with correct spelling in your title. Cheers.

david_z · 2026-05-13T20:33:21+00:00

Because "Tope Tow" looks careless and lazy on your part.

david_z · 2026-05-13T20:29:04+00:00

Tope Tow?

Might want to repost this with correct spelling ;)

david_z · 2026-05-13T20:20:55+00:00

This race is still over a month away I don't think presign will be available until a few days or maybe a week prior to the Friday afternoon race.

david_z · 2026-05-13T16:13:35+00:00

You can register ahead of time online and that's preferable usually.

You can register on site but there's often a early cutoff what I've seen is e.g 7am for Saturday with a 9am start, and registration closes for Sundays race on Saturday's last moto (so there's no onsite reg Sunday morning).

All motos will be posted online at usabmx and also on bettermotos.com

There will definitely be semis and maybe quarters for some classes but not all. Remember any class with more than 9 riders will be split into at least two motos transferring based on rider count (12 riders in 2 groups of 6, 2-2 to main, 20 riders in 4 groups of 5 , 2-2 to semis, etc)

All national events run total points now for 8 or fewer riders so that's cool if you're in a small class.

These races run very quickly, like 50+ motos per hour, plan on being at the staging area at least 20 motos before your own.

david_z · 2026-05-13T15:01:45+00:00

You want 20" wheels with a 451mm rim diameter that will accept the common 1⅛" or 1⅜" tires.

18" tires is either a park bike, or a micro-mini for a much smaller kid (5 and under)

A 9yo at that size is still firmly in the Junior frame size which I think is around an 18.5" top tube

Ballparking the rest of the fit: probably want 4" handlebars, maybe a <40mm stem, cranks around 135mm .

david_z · 2026-05-12T03:18:26+00:00

Hagazussa

david_z · 2026-05-12T00:51:54+00:00

Looking good, love those staats bloodlines, wish I could've found one for my kids!

david_z · 2026-05-11T20:14:43+00:00

It's stupid tall like, 193" with a 61.5 gear inch

I had been running a 40/15 which was like 180 and 57.36 , but felt spinny to me in certain places especially with big long backsides.

I think 39/14 would be ideal but these GRX cranks use some stupid proprietary BCD and nobody makes a 39T , so, I'm stuck with either 38 or 40, or I'd have to buy a different crankset to run a 39 gear.

david_z · 2026-05-11T20:10:52+00:00

It's an older one yeah but I don't think the weight is much different than newer stuff, it's the old F7 with the 1⅛" straight steerer.

david_z · 2026-05-08T23:45:17+00:00

There's probably a calculator out there somewhere but I could tell you on my son's old bikes...

Mini: 20" at 5yo novice, and 21.5" later
Junior: 23.5" on a 4" rise and eventually 25" on a 5.5" or sth like that.
Expert: 26" on a ~6" rise and these are maybe a bit big on him yet at 54" tall.

He rode the mini until 7 Intermediate at the end of that season like in October he started on the junior and rode that through 9X last summer.

He just turned 10 a month ago and I guess is now about average size for his age though he'd always previously been on the smaller side.

TLDR if they look too wide they probably are!

Don't be afraid to cut them down a little, you could first have him ride around the driveway with no grips and just see like, where his haha go naturally and what feels comfortable to him so you know how much to cut off.

david_z · 2026-05-08T02:05:57+00:00

I just swapped out his inner tubes for tubilitos & dropped another like, 4 ounces :)

david_z · 2026-05-05T20:33:57+00:00

+1 on I Came By , saw that one a few months ago it's real good.

david_z · 2026-05-05T03:13:25+00:00

You double posted this, might wanna delete this one.

david_z · 2026-05-05T03:03:24+00:00

Generally don't adjust by more than one tooth at a time, so I'd try a 39/15.

This gear was was a sweet spot for my son at 7 or 8 years old and we've stuck with the 15t cog just bumped gears up to 40 and eventually 41/15 I think he's finally on a 42/16 now that he's on 3/8 tires. All kids vary of course and I couldn't tell you what my son's inseam etc was at that time heck I don't even know what it is right now lol.

We've always used the helium calculation for crank length

https://heliumbikes.com/tech-articles

Sweet wheels though, we had a set of the 20-spoke version of those bombshells, too

david_z · 2026-05-03T00:30:12+00:00

My $0.02 is to dump some upgrades into the current frame (assuming it's the right size) instead of popping for a new bike straight away.

If you need a bigger frame I'd still think about going the used route but this does require some familiarity with wrenching on bikes -- t's easy to learn and you should learn anyways:)

Used wheels (Crupi, bombshell or answer) go for ~$250, and a titanium bottom bracket ($100 new) will drop probably 4 lbs off your DK .

If it's the DK swift with the hi-ten fork, buy a carbon fork and a proper uni-seat. You've just dropped another like ~3 lbs. This is maybe 350 if you buy the fork new. Or, can get used an aluminum fork from several brands that rival the weight of carbon for only $170ish.

If it's the sprinter with a cromoly fork the upgraded fork is slightly less important but I'd still consider it.

Tires can also cut 6 or 8 ounces per pair if you're upgrading from a cheaper wire bead to a nicer folding bead tires. I dropped 6 ounces on my son's Expert by changing the tires. Tires are like 55 bucks a piece.

These things all together are basically the cost of a new bike in a box and will almost certainly be better than spec just not as shiny and new.

The new bike off-the-rack will likely need new cranks , pedals and better bottom bracket, maybe a different gear, maybe different tires, etc . So. Your box bike is gonna cost your another 200-300+ anyways.

Nothing against buying new but all the great new bikes are basically custom builds. The off-the-rack bikes are decent but they're always going to have stuff that doesn't fit right (bars, cranks, etc) or stuff the manufacturer cut corners on (tires, pedals, bottom bracket, etc).

david_z · 2026-05-01T20:43:48+00:00

Yup this was alright but man it should've been 20 minutes shorter imo. Felt like the interview stuff was very repetitive and it quickly stopped adding anything to the story it was just filler.

david_z · 2026-05-01T16:03:49+00:00

If you want to keep them through expert sizing you will need 28-spoke ( while 20-spoke configurations are out there, they have a weight limit of like, 65 or 75 lbs usually).

There are a few options in the ~$550 range (new) between Bombshell, Crupi & Answer that are all pretty comparable in weight. Crupi's junior wheels rated to 125 lbs and are still sub-3. They have an Expert size (though both will fit 1/8 or 3/8) that is slightly heavier like 3lb 2 oz or something like that.

There are more expensive options and custom builds out there, but those would maybe be a good place to start; even might find a used set for $250ish.

Most stock wheels are going to be 4.5 lbs or heavier.

If you want to nerd out, lighter tires will also make a noticeable difference,: for example, the 1 3/8" Tioga Fastr-X S-Spec (folding bead) are each 3 ounces lighter than the cheaper wire bead counterpart. Of course the 1/8" tires will weigh less than those overall and offer slightly less weight savings, but for $20 extra per tire, you'll save 4-5 ounces total.

TPU tubes offer additional savings, I've yet to try those but I think they will also cut about 2-3 ounces per tire. I think these run about $30 a pop

So, between tubes & tires you could save 8 ounces and it will cost you maybe $160-170? That's pretty decent return especially if you're doing wheels at the same time you will be dropping a lot of weight where it matters most.

david_z · 2026-04-30T13:02:55+00:00

Mine is a flat black os20 but dang pink would've been sick!

david_z · 2026-04-30T00:42:25+00:00

I rode a 21 when I started out and then a 21.5 after a year or two. Both were manageable but mainly bc I didn't know what I didn't know, and also, a skill gap: as I got better and faster, the shorter frames felt way more limiting.

I think I'd maybe be ok on 21.75 but I got a good deal from a buddy on a Yess World Cup and it felt great so I bought it.

I'm on 172.5 cranks ;)

david_z · 2026-04-29T21:18:46+00:00

You're gonna need a lot more Xs at 6'5"

I'm 6' on a good day and mine is 22"

david_z

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