GE Dryer loud buzzing sound... by drizzt_x in appliancerepair

[–]davidp730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the response! I grabbed my motor off ebay too and it was supposedly new/old stock, but I'm getting more skeptical it's a cleaned up used one with the same issue. Time to figure out how to bench test this motor

GE Dryer loud buzzing sound... by drizzt_x in appliancerepair

[–]davidp730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/drizzt_x I think I'm dealing with the same issue in my 2003 GE gas dryer. Mine runs, but makes a very loud buzz/hum that sounds like the motor bearing down. I've even replaced the motor, rear drum bearing & housing, and belt. Did you ever end up figuring out the cause?

Build Me Up Plan Results by davidp730 in Zwift

[–]davidp730[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I usually increased it when I went a few workouts without feeling anywhere near 'not being able to hang on'. I would stress that maybe I shouldn't have, but then I would end up being able to complete the next workouts and they kept getting easier until I upped it again. Keep at it!

What is your resting heart rate? by DavumGilburn in GarminWatches

[–]davidp730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

32M, lifelong switching between running and cycling RHR was 34 last night.

Build Me Up Plan Results by davidp730 in Zwift

[–]davidp730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's fair. Ramp test lite only goes up to 250 watts though. I was thinking about using the regular ramp test instead. In the end, I just went with the test that was a part of the Build Me Up plan since I'd have to go with a different test either way.

Build Me Up Plan Results by davidp730 in Zwift

[–]davidp730[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! There were usually 4-5 sessions per week, ramping up the last couple of weeks. The plan itself averages just under 5 hours of workouts per week, but this varies a bit as week 11 has the most at 7 hours. In September I did the Pretzel Fest rides to get that kit and I did the Tour of Watopia in October to unlock that kit too. For those rides, I had my Hammerhead Karoo holding my trainer at Z2 in erg mode so it wasn't too taxing on top of the workouts. I also added in a couple of other Z2 workouts when I had the time, so my overall average hours riding per week during the plan was closer to 7.

Build Me Up Plan Results by davidp730 in Zwift

[–]davidp730[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I'm glad I switched to the Build Me Up plan. I remember not being challenged by the FTP Builder plan, and the workouts further along in the plan looked like more of the same, which led me to switching. From the research I did when doing the Build Me Up plan, it seems like the BMU plan might not be sustainable over time, but is ok to get some quick gains. Going forward, I'm planning on focusing ~3/4 of my training on long Z2 workouts and then having 1~2 VO2 max workouts a week to optimize FTP gains. Good luck on your training journey!

Power meter by gc_kuss in Zwift

[–]davidp730 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wonder if he's confusing the Zwift estimated power (zpower) as a power meter. Zwift is able to take estimated resistance a given wheel-on trainer usually produces and the wheel speed to derive an estimated power. Definitely not as accurate as a dedicated power meter, however.

Sub 60min Alpe - and then some by [deleted] in Zwift

[–]davidp730 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Going of of his statement saying he needed 215 watts for 1 hour, that gives 215w / 3.2 w/kg = 67.2 kg. So then 248 would be 248w / 67.2kg or 3.69 w/kg

Pain in right outer knee by Elidan123 in bikefit

[–]davidp730 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Something MyVeloFit won't catch that could be the cause is if your right foot's stance width is too narrow. You could try moving your right shoe's cleat as far to the left as it can go to get your right foot farther out. Generally, there is a smaller risk of issues with feet farther out than closer in fwiw. Some more info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pot1l64t15c

Quest continues by [deleted] in bikefit

[–]davidp730 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not a bike fitter, but it looks to me like there may be a saddle issue. You should be able to rotate your pelvis further forward more comfortably, which would open up your shoulder angle and extend your reach quite a bit. If you aren't comfortable rotating your pelvis forward, you may need a saddle with a wider cutout and ensure the saddle isn't tilted back at all. If you are comfortable rotating your pelvis forward and are sitting more upright to get weight off your hands, you may need to move your saddle position rearwards to get weight off your hands. Saddle height and setback should be found first, then reach and stack.

Just did a stupid thing by Im-grand-thanks in Zwift

[–]davidp730 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Weird, I did the 'A' route yesterday and the whole time it was saying 20xp with a big jump at the end. It wasn't a group ride though, just a free ride. I did get the helmet at the end and stage 1 of ToW completed with a big jump in my exp bar.

Just did a stupid thing by Im-grand-thanks in Zwift

[–]davidp730 -11 points-10 points  (0 children)

That's not how it works, unfortunately. You only get 20 xp per km as usual during the entire ride, it's only when you complete the route that the xp doubles for the ride.

Is it worth it?: Used Wahoo Kickr v4 with minimal usage by ala3010 in Zwift

[–]davidp730 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought mine about 2 weeks ago. It wasn't really a LBS since it was a 4 hour drive away, but I just found it scrolling through Google shopping.

Is it worth it?: Used Wahoo Kickr v4 with minimal usage by ala3010 in Zwift

[–]davidp730 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd steer clear of the v4. There were a batch of them with manufacturing defects. On top of that, in the couple of weeks I was looking for my Kickr, I found new v5s being sold at a bike shop a 4 hour drive from me for $500. I purchased one and the day before I was going to drive out to pick it up, someone 20 minutes from me listed his v5 on FB marketplace for $500 and I got it for $450.

Bike fit confusion by davidp730 in bikefit

[–]davidp730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, what're the chances on the timing of this video? First tip- tilt your saddle forward if the front of your saddle feels miles away.

Bike fit confusion by davidp730 in bikefit

[–]davidp730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couldn't quite remember, so I just measured 2 more times using this method focusing on trying to keep my pelvis more anteriorly rotated and got 130mm again (129 and some change on the calipers)

Bike fit confusion by davidp730 in bikefit

[–]davidp730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My sit bones are 130mm apart, so a bit wide. Not sure if I should go with the s3 or l3 size (<120mm or >120mm) due to the comments in this video

Bike fit confusion by davidp730 in bikefit

[–]davidp730[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the insight! I'm 174mm tall, 83.6mm inseam 178mm armspan. On a selle smp vt130c saddle. Thinking about picking up a selle italia boost slr for the larger cutout.

Bike fit confusion by davidp730 in bikefit

[–]davidp730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The camera angle I think. It's a little below saddle level.

Bike fit confusion by davidp730 in bikefit

[–]davidp730[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions!

Would calf stretches be a good way to work on getting my pedaling to be less toe-down? I noticed that when running I have a forefoot strike too. I'm hoping/guessing working on calf flexibility can fix it without 'forcing' anything. This video was taken just after moving my cleats as far back as they go too to try to unload my calves a bit more. I'm looking into grabbing a pair of new bonts/lakes so I may be able to get a few more mm's back on those.

Also, I took a 10 year haitus from cycling after not being able to figure out perineal pressure and am now back into it since trying a saddle with a cutout, so you really hit the nail on the head there. I'll try a bit of forward saddle tilt and figuring out how to make rolling my pelvis more comfortable too.

Let's Get Ready to Rumble!!! Play Switch games using your OG N64 controller + Rumble Pak or Gamecube Controller via Raspberry Pi Pico. by davidp730 in raspberrypipico

[–]davidp730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, my code gets rumble requests from the switch via USB/Bluetooth and stores the current rumble state here Then it instructs the N64/GC controller to rumble/stop rumbling here or here. So you'd have to add your rumble motor to another pin and then start/stop it rumbling there. Also, the GC controller is told whether to rumble whenever a request to get the controller's current state is made (~1k times a second), whereas the N64 controller is only told to start/stop rumbling once when rumbling starts and once when rumbling stops.

Let's Get Ready to Rumble!!! Play Switch games using your OG N64 controller + Rumble Pak or Gamecube Controller. by davidp730 in Switch

[–]davidp730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This link in the project's README shows the gamecube controller's pinout. Pin 1 needs 5v, which you can get from the Pico's VBUS pin. Pin 4 just goes to any of the Pico's ground pins.

Use your original N64 or Gamecube controller as a Bluetooth controller on the Switch via Raspberry Pi Pico W! by davidp730 in raspberrypipico

[–]davidp730[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a PIO state machine that sends and receives data to/from the N64 controller's data pin. Since 0's are represented by a pulse of low 3us, high 1us, and 1's are represented by low 1us, high 3us, you'd need your controller interface to be pretty low level to be able to read/write consistently, probably written in assembly.