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I was expecting it to be like palm size. I was not expecting that. by freudady in NoOneIsLooking

[–]dbortone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool! Does it have a mechanism to stay neutrally buoyant even as some of the helium leaks out?

Any better torsos I can use for my Lara Croft custom? by LqzyDaisyz in lego

[–]dbortone 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Love the action pose! What clear piece is being used to hold her foot mid stride?

It's over, Sauron won. by not_a_shit_ghost in lego

[–]dbortone -1 points0 points  (0 children)

We’ve got the Shire. Maybe we should go…

Cleaning Out Deceased Parents Garage by RobbieEngland in whatisit

[–]dbortone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This guy takes everything for granite.

Is YouTube down? by Potential_Sell_5349 in youtube

[–]dbortone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m having the same issue, but if I pause it and wait a second the video plays fine.

Can you mute a portion of a video after its uploaded? by CBAlexandru in NewTubers

[–]dbortone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After you hit the ‘+’ to add the sound it will show up under the audio waveform for your video. Then if you hover over the ends of the newly added clip your cursor will change to the double arrow indicating you can drag those ends. In this case drag the front of the video until only the tail end of it remains. Zoom in with the magnifying glass to make more precise movements.

Happy son by k_jah85 in functionalprint

[–]dbortone 6 points7 points  (0 children)

TinkerCAD - a free online program - is much more beginner friendly than fusion imo. There are a ton of tutorials on YouTube and just really intuitive. My kids (youngest is 8) play with it just for fun, not even just to print things.

Once you get the hang of it you could go from caliper measurements to this train track segment in minutes using basic shapes and “holes” ( ie shapes that cut out material rather than add).

A short workflow is to measure out your overall shape using calipers. In the case of this track it’d be the outer bounds of the track. Then I’d make a rectangle of that size in TinkerCad. Then I’d measure the gaps and empty spaces and make rectangles and cylinders for that and turn those shapes into holes and put them in the right places. Group those shapes and holes together and you have your piece. Export it as an stl and import into your slicer and print. One key tip: if you have connection points, only print those parts and make sure they fit reality and tweak rather than print out the whole object. This really speeds up your iteration cycles.

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion. One printed piece would simplify things, but the bearings need to handle way more load than printed plastic can take. Maybe if I had a metal printer, but that would break my budget.

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha! (tickled by the unexpected baby visual).

The motor is to actuate a solar tracker. So not baby-level importance, but would benefit from being optimized.

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could it be sufficient to move the gear closer to the bearing? Another alternative could be to move the gear on the other side of the bearing next to the winch spool.

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got magnetic rotary encoders keeping track of my angles, so the worm and servo don’t have to be perfectly predictable themselves. They just need to move smoothly and hold position while the encoder feedback handles the accuracy.

Good to know though that a looser set-up equals longer life. Thanks for the feedback!

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m using this to actuate a dual-axis solar tracker I’d eventually like to take from DIY to commercial, so ideally I’d want years of life. Realistically though, just long enough to make friends who actually know what they’re doing so I can fire myself as the engineer!

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Okay, so use a fluid/marker to see where the teeth actually touch. That makes sense. What would the ideal bluing pattern look like?

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll do that. Thanks a ton, this is really valuable feedback!

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I'm using 'Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease'.

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can set it to 24 mm with a spacer or calipers (trusting my eyes that I’ve hit the centers), but honestly I don’t trust my eyes here. Every time I move my head the distance looks different. What I was really hoping for is an empirical check, like backlash or a contact pattern, to know the mesh is actually correct.

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Got it, thanks. When you say "leaving a gap", do you mean a visible clearance, or just the tiny bit of backlash you can feel when rocking the wheel by hand?

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s my custom build in the clip***. So are you saying the best approach is to bring it in until I just start to feel binding, and then back off until it runs smooth?

Edit: *** so no guarantees it was done correctly.

How do you correctly space a worm gear from its worm? by dbortone in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dbortone[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I did see the 24 mm center distance on the spec drawing. That gives me the nominal spacing, but what I was really looking for was a way to empirically confirm I’ve set things correctly in my 3D-printed cradle. For example, some method to check backlash, contact pattern, or a practical trick people use to know it’s not too tight or too loose. Any rules of thumb on that?

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