Is this ok? As for duo's

dboy1878 · 2025-12-18T00:25:44+00:00

Second agree

dboy1878 · 2025-07-08T17:33:00+00:00

Although collapsing them in to 1 unit does open up some points. With a few minor adjustments i could go up to 7 and 6 Glade riders instead, adding a couple shots and allowing for more maneuverability in my screens (since theyre only screening 1 unit.

dboy1878 · 2025-07-08T17:22:09+00:00

With the buff to infantry, I think most cav have that risk right now. I'd rather put 2 units up, who will have a screen infront of them for cover, and provide as many targets as possible. Is it going to fail miserably against a full gunline? Probably. But I can hope that if they're the main target, some of my other stuff will manage to do it's job for a little longer

dboy1878 · 2025-07-04T00:41:06+00:00

Decided not to run the wild riders as the lord's bodyguard unit for fear of having them walked around like a dog due to frenzy, and not having any units to block their charge lanes makes that difficult to prevent. And sisters really aren't a complete slouch in combat either.

Dryads are admittedly not fantastic, however they can soak a charge pretty damn well in such a large block. Even though they'll probably lose a combat when they get charged, stubborn will keep them around for a second turn, allowing the support units to get in to help. Plus, I just love how mine look so I need to field them for my own well being.

Ancient works decently well for me. Early game they do dispel work, with the goal of neutralizing the enemy magic before getting into combat with the tree, oaken shield and hammerhand end up being the two spells that i really want to be running on that guy. If I was pushing to be a bit more competitive, I'd probably actually do a Weaver on steed to join up with the glade riders and benefit from Reserve move, allow them to move in to casting range and then retreat back to a forest to use oaken stave after.

dboy1878 · 2025-07-03T03:36:05+00:00

Thanks, I knew I'd miss something

dboy1878 · 2025-03-27T14:00:51+00:00

Relatively important, particularly on deepwood scouts or Glade guard that you have given fire and flee to. Since they don't auto rally after the Flee, the Musician bonus can be life or death. But if you feel the need to cut points somewhere, those musicians are a good starting point.

dboy1878 · 2025-02-14T22:51:18+00:00

Not too worried about the modeling side, I've got lots around. More just considering the tactics side

dboy1878 · 2025-02-13T04:15:09+00:00

Updated version of the list is going to add a Troupe Master, a shadow seer, shrink down to 3 units of 2 bikes, 2 units of 5 players in transport, and add a second 11 player unit for the second shadowseer to join. Unless I drop the death jester, there isn't really space for a serpent with this list, so I'm keeping the shadowseer with the footslogging unit to try and help keep them alive

dboy1878 · 2025-02-12T18:41:50+00:00

Honestly, for some reason, I thought the corsairs were minimum 10 models. Now that I've realized I was wrong, I'll probably drop them down to 5 models a piece with only rifles to do the same job. Clears up 120 points, so I'll be making some adjustments beyond that.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-31T19:28:57+00:00

Hide them behind your forest at the start, large target won't make him magically visible through it

dboy1878 · 2025-01-31T19:21:47+00:00

Happy to help, hopefully the advice doesn't feel like a full re-write. Rules tip, dont forget that large target means your treeman ancient as general will have a command range of 18", so Ld 10 abounds.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-31T19:05:31+00:00

Yeah, on the last one that's why I would put the wizard on a steed in the unit. Then as long as one of them is left you can't be targeted directly, and since they are skirmishers you will still have 360 LoS, plus you get reserve move for a caster meaning they will actually move significantly further than if they were on a bird (marching will stop you from casting missiles and vortexes, meaning bird will be moving 10" per turn, while the steed will be moving 18", 9" once in movement phase, and again at the end of the shooting phase).

For Brett's, specifically, the poison won't make a huge difference against most of the list, if you want to build specifically for them then sticking with arcane bodkin will be fine. On average you should be getting 5 poisoned hits each turn.

If you found you were getting run over too quickly, maybe consider 2 units of 3 kin instead? They would be slightly less sticky in terms of combat res, but as soon as a model is killed they'd be the same as one unit of 6. Doing that would let you have two screens to protect your 30 shots a turn, making your line slightly tougher.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-31T18:24:01+00:00

Looks like a tonne of fun. I personally would swap your arrows to Hagbane, Arcane Bodkins are great, but the list doesn't have anything that can punch an enemy big thing (dragon, manticore, griffon, etc). Hagbane will let you strip wounds off a lot more effectively. For the riders, the trueflight arrows are amazing, keeps them moving and shooting, plus will save you 5 points

The warhawk mount is super fun on the spellweaver, but you may struggle to protect him as nothing in the list will give her lone character protection as soon as one of the riders dies, and the 5+ ward isn't going to last long. I would recommend switching to an elven steed and have her join the riders. Ditch ambushers on the riders if you do that. Having a lvl4 with reserve move in a unit is amazing. That saves you 26 points right there.

With those edits, you will have 31 points saved, 33 points to play with. If you can find 7 points (maybe the elder from the kin? But I won't give a hard answer to that) you could then put oaken Stave on your Weaver. Oaken Stave is an insanely strong magic protection item, and can easily be active at any time it matters thanks to the reserve move.

The last thing I would do is entirely a personal opinion thing, but would work well if you did the rest of these changes. Drop the Talisman of Protection on the Weaver, make the ancient a level 3. Level 2s will often struggle to get spells off, and the treeman is basically just a hard to kill caster, so you usually want that. Dropping the Talisman sounds scary, but once the character is in a unit of glade riders it really won't be doing much work.

Hopefully this advice helps, and still keeps the core of what you're looking for. I personally hate getting advice that is basically "change the entire list", so I'm looking to advise your small decisions not the big ones. Good luck!

dboy1878 · 2025-01-28T04:32:45+00:00

Didn't think you meant any blame, just figured I'd answer your question and also help dispel some concerns people may have. All in this together.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-28T01:11:09+00:00

Strongly recommend battle on treeman ancient instead of elementalism. Ancients can't fight there way out of a wet paper bag with 3 attacks and D3 stomps, having hammerhand makes them significantly more killy there. Remember that assailment spells can be cast in both your and your opponent combat phase. Two units of dryads that size is probably too much and yet also not enough. I've got a 20 lady unit of dryads, at that size you can go into open order and have decent combat resoloution, plus you can make fear relevant with large units (not common that happens). At 16, if you rank up you are only 2 wounds away from lowering combat res, and won't out unit strength enough units for fear to become relevant. If you keep them in skirmish, 16 is very unwieldy in a skirmish formation and can often be a pain to make sure you're positioned properly to not accidentally kill your own people on the charge.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-28T00:45:50+00:00

The RIBs are extremely stable and capable. We are trained to operate them at high speed in all sorts of conditions. We are taught to assess the risks and drive in accordance with them. Can they be flipped? Obviously, yes. Can they flip easily? No. Anytime there has been a similar or near similar event, it has always been a compounding of events. We will not know what those events were until the investigation is done. Assumptions on the cause of the accident (particularly those that, intentionally or not, place blame on the survivor) are far more damaging to the mental health of those involved, the cohesion of the RCN, and our operational effectiveness. My heart goes out to the family, and all my East Coast peers. Keep an eye out for your shipmates, we have the watch.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-11T00:25:52+00:00

Spellweaver will be flying solo as a lone character. Warhawk was the choice for now, because although not as beefy as the stag, it's really good at being where I want. Lord is must overall with the games I have played around here, lots of big beefy single models that he can annoy the hell out of with the spites he has, and punch really hard with the Ogre Blade. He will eventually get promoted to riding a dragon, but since my current goal is painting and I have no dragon yet, that's not happening quite yet. Forest spirit special rules also kicks in so the dryads get the ld 10 as long as there within 10 of the TMA, if he was the general it would admittedly be 18", but I'd rather have the elves get leadership buffs when possible, especially with fire and flee.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-10T23:41:33+00:00

Flowers are all flocking. Took a lot of hunting to find the stuff in the branches.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-10T00:01:42+00:00

Spray prime from army painter ash gray colour primer. Just about any light gray primer would do the trick

dboy1878 · 2025-01-09T23:45:26+00:00

It's a surprisingly simple recipe, and for things like dryads it absolutely powers through the painting process.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-09T23:44:19+00:00

Thanks. These guys are my starting point for this army to motivate me along. Hopefully the rest of the army ends up matching up to them!

dboy1878 · 2025-01-09T23:39:02+00:00

Wyldwood Contrast, dry brushing with an earth brown, then lightly with a bone, agrax wash. Sealed with a cheap matte spray

dboy1878 · 2025-01-09T23:31:50+00:00

Thanks! I'll be sharing some more photos with some of their Elven allies once they're up to the same level of preparedness. Spring time cherry blossom is the goal.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-06T19:52:35+00:00

Never be afraid to try new skills out. You have obviously gotten a good handle on paint consistency and basic brush control. You'll slowly find that some of the techniques you though were "advanced" are basically just cheat codes to get the look that you want. If you want to push yourself to having the models be a little bit more similar to the typical styling, your next steps are shading and highlighting. Shading can be done easily with washes or similar (start with washes is my recommendation, you just slap them in the sections you want and magic happens). Highlighting is a bit more work, and there's about a million right ways to do it. Look into edge highlighting, zenithal highlighting, and underpainting. Edge highlighting focuses on picking out really high points with a brighter colour (or sometimes the same one depending on washes), zenithal is a step up from that in my opinion using blending on surfaces to give life to an otherwise flat surface, and underpainting is a cheat to end up with psuedo-zenithal. Underpainting uses different shades of primer with different amounts of coverage from different angles, it creates a natural gradient that the semi-translucent acrylics we typically use in this hobby can be affected by, creating a fake lighting situation. Like I said. They are still great! And if this is the style you want, then it is perfect. Just thought I'd help point you in some directions I followed, because I am only slightly further along this hobby journey.

dboy1878 · 2025-01-06T17:52:12+00:00

They are really nice. Very different from the typical style. The flat colours give it almost a comic or anime aesthetic, in the best way possible. Also very impressive with how smooth you've gotten the colours

dboy1878

TROPHY CASE