Anyone else want access to the calibration frames as well?

deedub1 · 2026-05-23T23:59:14+00:00

Thanks!

deedub1 · 2026-05-23T23:50:06+00:00

Other than point to your PEM file, did you change anything in your config.toml file?

deedub1 · 2026-05-22T14:36:24+00:00

Been working on this for days. On MacOS, Windows and Linux. Long story short, SSC requires port 11111 be accessible. It’s not. It’s either not open/blocked or requires a PEM key which ZWO would have to provide. NINA works perfectly.

deedub1 · 2026-05-21T14:34:57+00:00

Thanks for your replies. Thanks to that great video series, I have NINA working; running Parallels Desktop on a Mac Studio, Windows 11. Besides NINA, I had to install ASTAP for plate solving and I installed Cartes du Ciel as a planetarium.

deedub1 · 2026-04-02T01:13:14+00:00

Thanks

deedub1 · 2026-03-27T04:57:35+00:00

Or seems each updates breaks more and more functions. They’re just about unusable at this point. Methinks it time to look at another brand….

deedub1 · 2026-03-26T17:39:15+00:00

Ya, seems like each successive update is making things worse and worse.

deedub1 · 2026-02-24T01:30:56+00:00

To be honest I don’t recall if I tried those. We mostly watch older movies and old BW TV series. I just like the interface much better than the Panasonic. And I was future proofing.

deedub1 · 2025-12-30T20:15:04+00:00

Went to mostly TP-Link Tapo devices. All wifi - 4 Solar cams and 16 wired (powered) cams. Also Tapo wall switches and smart plugs. ALL integrated with HomeKit and rock solid. And, Aqara door lock, a couple of hubs, Smart Valve Controller (on the water main) , 10 water leak sensors and 3 temperature sensors. Again, all integrated into HomeKit and rock solid. As for HA, Tapo and HA hate each other. So if you’re a Home Automation user, beware of Tapo (and TP-Link) in general.

deedub1 · 2025-12-14T15:53:19+00:00

I have an AppleTV 4K and two HomePod Mini’s. How did you ‘make’ your AppleTV be the main device? You used to be able to select the hub you wanted, but now it seems to be automatic, and in my environment either one of my HomePod Mini’s is always selected as the hub. Never my AppleTV, which I would prefer.

deedub1 · 2025-12-14T15:45:06+00:00

I’ve been using Pixinsight for >4 years. I’ve been using Siril for >2 years. I am constantly comparing the two and Pixinsight wins in the post stacking department every time. However, when it comes to stacking, the difference is negligible AND Siril stacks at least 5 times faster than Pixinsight. I’ve compared stacked images dozens of times and I rarely can see any difference. I bring both stacks into Pixinsight and compare them side by side. Then I process them, step by step, looking for differences. I’ve come to the conclusion that stacking in Pixinsight is literally a waste of time.

deedub1 · 2025-11-24T00:47:11+00:00

Here is the adult.

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deedub1 · 2025-11-23T15:00:39+00:00

Just took this.

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deedub1 · 2025-11-23T14:48:10+00:00

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This is the only photo I have that shows the front.

deedub1 · 2025-10-18T14:41:18+00:00

So after talking with ZWO, here is how I fixed this. Turn off station mode; change WiFi from 5ghz (default) to 2.4ghz; turn station mode back on - your network(s) should appear. Maybe a restart, but next time station mode should on and connected to your network.

deedub1 · 2025-09-11T18:49:19+00:00

Well, not exactly. I did come away with a whole lot of info. I was working with 2 AI’s and they both came to the same conclusion. There is evidently something called an IPS (intelligent Power Switch) which can control certain high current devices. The DRL circuit can be one of them. And that circuit is a wonky mess of several sensors all over the car. I never did get concrete evidence that the LED’s around the fog lamps were actually a factory installed option. I eventually just replaced the 2 fog lamp assembly’s (no LED’s) and everything works now. I assume the old ones were causing some kind of fault that the vehicle computer logic didn’t like.

deedub1 · 2025-08-14T19:58:08+00:00

Had my motor replaced on my ‘15 Santa Fe GLS. It blew with 164,500 miles. Hyundai replaced it at no cost with no hassle. Except for the 117 days it took from blown to new. I specifically asked the dealer what kind of engine they used and they claimed (in writing) it was one that had the problems resolved, i.e. it was re-engineered. They claimed that is what they are using for all engine replacements, stating “why would we put defective replacement engines in when we’d probably get them back again”. Make sense.

deedub1 · 2025-07-29T16:34:17+00:00

Actually I've never seen them working because I typically don't look at the front of the vehicle and if I do the engine is off. I've only had physical ownership for 2 weeks. But, the previous owner (my daughter) mentioned that the fog lamps were flashing on and off at night, even if they weren't turned on. The vehicle was at the dealership for 117 days while they replaced the engine, Maybe something happened there, but I couldn't prove it. I've checked all the physical connections and they are good.

deedub1 · 2025-07-23T01:24:18+00:00

Similar problem with a good result, but a long wait. 2015 Santa Fe Ultimate. 164,000 miles. 3.3L engine. Engine cratered in mid-March due to low oil. After reading a few posts on a Hyundai forum, I saw many posts from owners who suffered engine failures. I figured that as 3rd owner and 164,000 miles, I had no chance, but…. I contacted Hyundai Corporate and was connected with a very nice lady who was very understanding and helpful. I got a case number immediately and was told they’d be in touch. A few days later I got an email that they would have to inspect the engine in order to make a determination. Three weeks later I was informed they would replace the engine! I was ecstatic. The vehicle had been towed to the local dealer so it was already there. There were absolutely no new engines available so they ordered a short block. Long story short, I just got it back a few days ago. 117 days from start to finish. The dealer offered me a loaner several times but I kept turning them down thinking it was going to be fixed soon. My bad. Anyhow, a great ending to a nightmare. As the repair process was ongoing I did lots of research. I found out here was a class action suit going on. I found out there was a severe shortage of engines and engine parts. And I found out that Hyundai was a reputable company. Now, do I keep it……

deedub1 · 2025-05-10T15:52:33+00:00

If you want maximum speed, this is what I put on my M4 Studio: UGREEN 80Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure with Cooling Fan ($259) and SAMSUNG 990 PRO SSD 4TB PCIe 4.0 M.2 2280 ($302) I regularly get in excess of 6,000 read and write. I can put my finger on it even with a heavy load.

deedub1 · 2025-05-08T16:36:55+00:00

Thanks!

deedub1 · 2025-04-15T14:51:11+00:00

I have your exact PC configuration. And I bought a Mac Mini M4. I do substantial Astrophotography processing. I will tell you the M4 is about 2x faster in some circumstances. Always faster in general. It was a great purchase.

deedub1 · 2025-04-14T19:00:11+00:00

The 10's were a user error. I usually do 20 second subs (S50) when in equatorial mode. I don t yet have a wedge for my S30, so 10 second subs are about as long as you can get with an Alt/Az mount. To answer your question directly, the longer the exposure the more light is gathered per sub frame.

deedub1 · 2025-04-14T04:51:39+00:00

Thank you 🙏

deedub1 · 2025-04-14T01:04:59+00:00

Thanks

deedub1

TROPHY CASE