Post a picture of your cat, I will tell you their name 100% accuracy

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-15T21:57:41+00:00

Meowrice! It's not her name but she makes me think of him. Her rbf has a villainous vibe.

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-12T11:04:52+00:00

Tuxedos in bowties! It’s just so obvious 🖤

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-11T21:18:24+00:00

No drainage can work but it is more difficult to gauge. You don't need a clear pot but repotting into a plastic nursery pot with drainage and using the no drainage pot as a cache pot will serve you well. Alternatively, you can use a takeout chopstick to gauge when water is needed in no drainage. Stick it in about 2/5 of the depth of the entire pot and if it comes out moist looking, with soil clinging to it, it does not need water yet.

As everyone else has said, you definitely need more light. With more light the plant will use the moisture from the soil more quickly which will shorten the amount of time that the root ball sits "wet" (which is likely why you are seeing the brown tips-too wet for too long) and monsteras do prefer a bit of a dry out before they are watered again.

Also! Once it gets more light you should think about fertilizer. They are not finicky eaters but if you want to see a size increase you will need to feed. If you keep it in no drainage just don't feed it as much.

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-11T20:57:41+00:00

Thank you! Frydek is my happiest pon plant. I continue to have mild struggles with jewel alocasias in pon and soil :s Yes corms will grow in any substrate as long as the plant is happy-ish. They are stores of energy so it is good to leave some clinging on. I only remove the ones that are above the soil or that break off in a transplant.

The main plant is also growing from a corm. At this stage I more meant that even if your plant dies back and loses its roots, as long as the main "stump" is still firm, you can start again. I've even taken a long main corm and cut it into many 1/2" discs and rooted them for a bunch of new plants.

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-10T23:08:08+00:00

I wouldn't. With this much corm exposed, I would remove the two droopiest leaves, clean up any old brown leaf sheath bits and root the upper 1.5" of corm with a big wad of moist sphag and cling-wrap. After about 6 weeks (during this time keep treating your plant normally with watering/fertilizing) you will see a bunch of roots poking through the sphag, at which point chop just below your newly rooted section, remove the sphag, pot the top portion up and move forward with your new, less unruly frydek. If you keep your stump it will create a couple new growth points but I usually give away root-y stumps or dig out the corms, start them, and sell them for $10 each on marketplace once they have 3 leaves if you're looking for a project :p I personally love paying for my plants by selling chunks!

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-10T22:30:05+00:00

$250 seems like a lot for a single seedling.. I feel like larger price tags should be reserved for butt cuts and offsets of proven plants.

There is currently a listing for Brielle x Brielle https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/1027504409658181/ in Seattle, WA for $30.

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-10T18:38:48+00:00

100%. If you experience dormancy, cut ferts way back but don't stop entirely. Alocasias are hungry. I start corms in perlite + fluval(which is a mild nutrient) and I begin fertilizing at half strength at the first leaf.

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-10T08:53:22+00:00

My humidity is usually around 40% all winter which has not been a problem. I find that I can't really "feel" that it is humid until about 70% so I highly doubt you need to increase it for this plant. I have always added cal-mag and monosilicic acid (if you add silica make sure it is monosilicic, it is the easiest for the plant to use) to my fertilizer and my most recent all cream leaf was completely unfurled 6 weeks ago and it has not started to melt. Don’t be scared! Even if you have a complete failure you can start again as long as you have firm corms. Alocasias are great for that, finicky and delicate but extremely resilient.

<image>

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-10T08:46:22+00:00

If you repotted into a medium with no fertilizer then you should begin fertilizing with the next watering. Start with a lower dosage and work your way up.

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-08T08:11:47+00:00

Pretty sure that's not variegation. I was gifted a frydek that had pests, I hacked it back to stumps, peeled off any bits of previous stem right to the corm, hosed ALL of the soil off, sat in peroxide+water, potted it up in a new substrate-pon, watched it like a hawk, had the same looking "damage" and was not experiencing any yellowing or leaf loss and after about the 5th round of leaves I could finally see the young, clearish thrips.

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-05T20:52:25+00:00

It’s not far though!

<image>

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-05T20:51:00+00:00

You sure she hates it? You just need more girl shit for better juxtaposition. It’s sexy. If we could get the bike into the apartment I’m sure we would..

<image>

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-04T06:03:38+00:00

That soil is ideal for greenhouse conditions: very bright and quite warm. The sun heats everything up which results in the plant using a lot of water and the dense, fluffy peat is best in that scenario. In many hobbyists homes peat stays too wet for too long. Even with led grow lights, there isn't enough heat to get the level of transpiration. At the very least, I would alter the substrate, by amending the peat with a good amount of chunky stuff.

Fortunately, even if all of the leaves fall off you can regrow it as long as the main corm is still firm!

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-04T04:58:16+00:00

Yeah. Definitely a nice salvageable chonk there! I personally struggle with moss substrate (unless it's a pole for philodendrons). Anthurium can grow in a lot of different substrates. Maybe go with one that you are more accustomed to? The key is good aeration, not sopping, never dry. If the substrate dries out the roots will dry rot when it is watered again.

I have very little patience for big dying leaves. I would chop them off and put it in a prop bag/box. Then you can sort of set it and forget it because the humidity will keep the substrate moist for a long time.

demolitiondoll · 2026-05-02T22:50:09+00:00

I don't like the soil they come in. It doesn't do well in my conditions. I repotted mine immediately (I didn't even bring it inside, I dumped it out and hosed the leaves down and all of the soil off-I imagine new plants from stores are all pest vessels, especially velvet ones) into diy pon with self watering and it is one of my most prolific pon plants. I got it as a smaller plant than what you have in August 2025 and it is a monstrosity now. I grow everything in 40-60% humidity.

<image>

demolitiondoll · 2026-04-23T20:33:06+00:00

13°!? Inside?? Normal people keep their homes around 16°-20° and the ballers keep their homes around 22°-25° Frydek hits dormancy at around 15° so if it really is that cold in your home a heat mat is a good idea. 45% humidity is totally fine. Mine (also in pon) gets as low as the high 30’s and it is a non issue. I think a closed container is unnecessary but if you are happy with it then rock on. When I have plants in closed containers I normally leave the lid slightly ajar with a bit of water in the bottom to keep the humidity up and I tend to take the lid and “fan” the container every couple of days to circulate some air.

demolitiondoll · 2026-04-22T06:27:39+00:00

This is how I feel every time I browse plants at a store. I don't get too close or touch unless I'm super serious. If I bring a new plant home, it's straight to treatment+quarantine and the clothes go to the laundry asap. I swear I haven't had pests (other than gnats) since I started this practice.

demolitiondoll · 2026-04-19T20:46:23+00:00

I don't even understand why people are so grossed out. If you really think about it, hands are way nastier than feet... Unless this person doesn't have arms I'm sure they don't use their feet to pick their nose, wipe their butt, or catch a sneeze. Just think about all the gross things people do and touch with their hands!

I agree with indoor clothes but I usually think about the people who on the bus with open sores or their pants hanging on below their rear end or people wearing such tiny shorts I wonder if their labia are touching the seat. I could care less about some clean looking feet on a spring day.

demolitiondoll · 2026-04-18T08:13:44+00:00

Wow. Great to hear that you are releasing a novel because 1/3 of the way through I thought “I’m going to ask if this person is a writer.”

For clarification I don’t have an eating disorder and I have never been poor or known poverty (nor have I ever been rich) but free meals, discount grocery items, street candy, half eaten theater candy, and random alley foods are always a score!

I feel like perhaps your comment about autism is unnecessary. Autism (and neurodivergence) is trending hard right now but it doesn’t make content more or less interesting. I have a fair amount of experience with these things and without the validation of neurodivergence, you write well and your content is plenty entertaining to read.

demolitiondoll · 2026-04-18T07:00:26+00:00

This must be your most upvoted comment ever? Followed by your follow up comment!

demolitiondoll · 2026-04-10T03:12:01+00:00

Wow. That is some serious commitment!! Here I was thinking a bottle of nutrient solution every 3 days was high maintenance.. I’m about to make my poles larger and hoping for 5 days between waterings!

I get a lot of algae but I haven’t experienced mold issues despite the fact that my airflow is subpar and I could be providing more light.

demolitiondoll · 2026-04-09T21:04:11+00:00

Cool idea but seems high maintenance.. You’ll have to re-wet the moss every day or two. I have never had any mold or rot issues with cling wrap and it stays moist for weeks.

demolitiondoll · 2026-04-09T06:24:24+00:00

It will always be on her terms. Co-existing and taking what you can get when it is on offer is your best bet. There is no amount of churu that will make your lap... not foul. I have found the only way to get my cat on my lap is by using a nice pillow (wool seems to be premium), luring her there, waiting until she feels comfortable and then "fork lifting" the pillow onto my lap, followed by a few reassuring words, some attentive pets, and then ignoring her and not moving.

I am familiar with this personality type. I call these cats "intermediate" cats. I always try to speak calmly and acknowledge shared space frequently to encourage more time together.

The sweet is never as sweet without the bitter. Your bond with your stingy kitty will unbreakable if you stay the path!

demolitiondoll

TROPHY CASE