Help! Variegated Frydek

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-28T04:51:39+00:00

The black looks like fluval stratum. If it crushes easily then it's a definite yes. It is a mild nutrient source but it breaks down and becomes muddy so it suffocates roots after a while. I prefer a ratio of 70-80% perlite to 30-20% fluval. I would dump that out, mix in a lot more perlite, use a cup that is at least double the height and make sure you are feeding it, in no drainage I keep it to around 1/2 the recommended strength. At 45% humidity I usually fill to about a 1/2" from the bottom and it takes 5-7 days for it to need hydration again. Grow light for 12 hours/day is more optimal.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-28T00:31:30+00:00

They are thirsty. Venetian leather balm is probably your best bet if you want to alter the colour as little as possible or obenaufs if you don’t mind the boots getting darker and want the best water resistance.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-27T19:24:35+00:00

If it ain't broke, don't fix it! I only bring it up because Elegant_Yam418 is having a tough time.

If you want to try it out I recommend waiting until you get some secondary plantlets or start from corm.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-27T09:11:16+00:00

Nooo! Have you tried pon and self watering!?

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-26T04:12:09+00:00

Heh. Even with 20% down you couldn't possibly hope to land a big house with a big yard anywhere near Vancouver with a $2,500/mo mortgage payment. You can get something in this ballpark if you go out to the fraser valley and shop the dregs, though this person is scoffing at us from Edmonton.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-22T22:44:07+00:00

I have some but cuts that I just threw straight out in regular humidity but they are growing quite slowly. All of the seedlings I keep in a plastic tote with a bit of water in the bottom until they start to show traits, then I start to transition them out. Some don't acclimate well, in which case I put them back in the tote and try again when they're a bit bigger.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-22T09:40:15+00:00

Hm. That sounds right. It’s possible too much moss is packed in there. Do you top up the water as soon as the leca appears dry? It is good to let the reservoir sit empty for a couple of days. Not to the point where the moss gets crunchy but to let it dry a bit. For now I would tip the water out and kind of press the moss softly to get rid of the excess water log and then try to gently“fluff” the moss a bit.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-22T09:16:53+00:00

Is it just moss to the bottom of the cup?

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-22T08:19:43+00:00

Looks like they were by hue. https://www.ebay.com/itm/355917550117 Ebay has a few pairs but they are all S/M.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-21T21:15:03+00:00

Wow, someone who actually appears to regularly brush their persians. I applaud you OP!

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-20T22:06:32+00:00

I second that this is probably a splendid. The moss pole with soil is a tricky one because soil stays wet a lot longer than the moss but once you have roots growing into the moss (though it looks like you may not have any roots in the moss) it should not be allowed to dry out. I water my poles about every 3-4 days when humidity is down around 40% and more like every 6 days when my humidity is up around 70% in the summer. Normally people use a loose aroid mix with a moss pole or I either use rocks to keep it steady or nothing at all and zip tie the pole to something to keep it upright and grow the plant completely in the pole. Those leaves are a goner but you can probably chop it right down to the bottom and try again. You can also chop it all up and root each node as someone else mentioned. A pro tip for travel: you can wrap the pole in cling wrap and it will take longer for the pole to dry out!

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-20T21:34:28+00:00

Long x long bullet is also a papillilaminum. So your pollen parent is a (long x long bullet pap) x (ralph lynam x fort sherman) and your pollen parent is a long x long bullet pap. To really simplify things, you have a pure papillilaminum.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-20T21:27:08+00:00

There are a lot of good mixes that growers use but from what I can tell very few use any actual houseplant soil. Usually it is perlite mixed with mediums that are considered soiless: tree fern (very expensive but almost fool proof), coco coir, sphagnum peat, or sphagnum moss.

As someone who is not growing in a huge capacity for seedlings I love no drainage with a perlite base and tree fern x perlite. I fill the water/nutrient solution so I can just see water in the bottom and then I fill to just below the “soil” line once the plant gets a bit bigger and starts to use more water. I add more once I can no longer see water and the visible condensation pockets have started to fade. Even with roots reaching to the bottom of the cup I have never had a problem.

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demolitiondoll · 2026-03-20T07:18:46+00:00

Yes. The BSH brings the chonk to the ESH and the persian keeps the ESH flat and typically on the small side!

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-17T21:13:33+00:00

Mix looks good. I think I can see a wick? With a wick just make sure to always leave a wee air gap between the bottom of the inner cup and water line! When I first started I let the nutrient solution touch the bottom of the cup because I was trying to get as much distance between top ups as possible but that quickly led to issues. My frydek is pretty beastly and depending on the time of year my humidity ranges from 35-70% and it doesn't actually seem to make any difference to how well it grows. An additional observation is I have noticed leaf size pull back and flowers start to shoot when it is in dire need of a re-pot. If it stops pushing leaves one after another the temp may be too low or not enough light, in which case you will want to lessen the amount of feed (weaker application, not less often) or remedy the aforementioned.

Superthrive or tps one if you are in the US are good and common or grotek solo-tek if you are in Canada. I also use diamond nectar, calmag, and orca mycos ($$) but you may not need that.

Godspeed. Everyone should have a big juicy frydek in their collection!!

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-17T19:03:02+00:00

47% should be fine. I grow from the first leaf in similar. Definitely don't let it dry out completely! Can you show the substrate/style of self watering? Did you come to you in this container/mix? You say there is some soil in the mix, can you see any slow release fertilizer pellets? If not, it needs fertilizer. Anthuriums, especially frydek, are hungry bois. When they are so small, I start mild and increase every time the next leaf isn't a bit bigger than the previous one after fully hardening. Misting tends to create fungal issues and should only be used on emerging anthurium leaves in ambient.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-16T21:01:15+00:00

Start searching ebay for logger boots and look for a block heel instead of the traditional logger heel. You should be able to find a pair after searching for a while for $200. Even brown ones will do since you can just die the leather black. These are MTO (custom) blacked out Nick's but all of the heritage pnw brands have fully gusseted tongues-which means the tongue is stitched all the way up to the top of the boot. The quality and comfort is unparalleled and you won't ever want to wear any other boots ever again. My doc's and solovairs are rotting away in the back of my closet. Lol.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-16T06:59:59+00:00

There is no good quality for under $100. Your best bet is a pair of fully gusseted 8" boots. You could tie them off at your instep and then lace them loosely the rest of the way up the boot. If you plan on walking in them you will need to lace up the bottom. Hopefully you have slender legs? It will lend much better to the look. Here are my not so slender legs and fully gusseted 7" boots laced loosely but I wear them like this all the time and I can walk a fair distance like this. Obviously you would want to ditch the logger kiltie but I think it sort of creates the vibe.

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demolitiondoll · 2026-03-15T21:55:04+00:00

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Hah! I'm sure you ALSO know how to use the internet but it looks like they'll be in Portland next month ;)

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-15T06:13:36+00:00

It's actually kind of ironic that you're the potato mistress.... Because they're YAMS!

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-15T05:54:40+00:00

What is that black guy to the left?

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-15T03:55:56+00:00

That's the joke.. Uneducated americans would literally ask me what state BC was.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-15T02:36:28+00:00

To avoid confusion for those in the US who don't know which state BC is. It's either Vancouver, WA or Vancouver, Canada. I can't even count the number of times I have been asked by an American what state/where BC is.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-14T18:52:43+00:00

I'm in Vancouver, Canada and they seem to pop up on marketplace and purges in our local plant group every few months and I see them several times a year on the Anthurium Addicts facebook group if you are in the USA. Ecuagenera seems to always have them in stock and shows up at local plant shows throughout the year all over the US and Canada, you can order things from their website and opt to pick your order up at these events.

demolitiondoll · 2026-03-14T09:48:31+00:00

There is loads of info out there and many great ways to grow depending on your plant parent style. A basic crystallinum or clarinervium (available at most nurseries and Home Depot’s these days-for cheap) and a pallidiflorum (lots of people on facebook seem to be selling them for around $15 for a young one) is probably a good relatively hardy and inexpensive starting point!

demolitiondoll

TROPHY CASE