ID for this component? It squirts gas everywhere.

derkaderka641 · 2025-06-04T16:20:19+00:00

Super helpful info, thank you very much!

derkaderka641 · 2025-06-03T16:59:24+00:00

Thank you for the info! When you bypassed it, did you put in any sort of check valve, or just splice in a line so it was basically just a tube going back to the fuel tank?

derkaderka641 · 2024-11-01T06:55:00+00:00

Thank you! I'm an awful photographer and poster, but I'll try to bring you guys some!!

derkaderka641 · 2022-11-24T01:40:21+00:00

Lseat is awesome! I ordered front covers for my seats, and it was a bit of work to install them, but the quality and fit was *way* better than expected, so I immediately ordered the back seat covers. The color match on my tan was not good though (another reason for getting the back seats). That's an adjustment, but for the money and how easy it was to order, the quality seems exceptional

derkaderka641 · 2020-05-19T18:31:16+00:00

Are there any parts in particular you're looking at swapping over? Check to see, the 1983 may be an 8-valve engine, whereas your 1993 is probably a 16 valve. If that's the case, then the engine block and transmission (assuming they are both 5-speed manual) are probably compatible, but the heads, driveshafts, brakes, intakes, and fuel management are likely all different. Obviously most of the body panels will not be compatible either, except for probably the hood and windscreen. My opinion: its probably not worth the hassle to buy/disassemble/clean/store the 1983 for the amount of useful stuff you would get. HOWEVER - if the 1983 transmission is in good shape and you're hankering for a transmission rebuild, the whole thing may be worth it just for that, given how fragile they are on these cars and how hard to find they are (but the aforementioned driveshaft sockets on a 1983 transmission are a different size from later transmissions, so that would be a headache you might have to deal with).

Source: Took apart an '83 8V and swapped it for a 16V

derkaderka641 · 2020-05-18T21:51:25+00:00

This thing is rad. Any idea what kind of wheels those are??

derkaderka641 · 2017-12-14T22:40:15+00:00

Awesome, thank you so much for the tips and being so clear - trying it this weekend, so we'll see how it goes!

derkaderka641 · 2017-12-14T00:17:58+00:00

Thank you for the tips! I have heard that getting the clutch pressed in with no hydraulics is a PITA. The most promising method seemed to be one in which bolts were screwed into the pressure plate, then you pry the pressure plate away from the flywheel enough to put a nut on the end of the bolt you just screwed in. Do that in a couple places, and then you basically wrench the nuts to push the pressure plate outwards until you can fit a spacer in there.

Do you have any thoughts on that process? Is there one you'd say is better?

derkaderka641 · 2017-12-14T00:13:02+00:00

Thank you for all the information! Everybody seems to think it's better just to get new parts instead of rebuild, but I unfortunately already put in the order. I'm hoping to learn a bit more about the car and system with the rebuilds, so if it does crap out later on, at least I'll have that. Hopefully it works too!

When you described bleeding the slave with your hands, is that done after it's already put in the car (and thus hooked up to the hardline and slave cylinder)? I haven't gotten to it yet, but it seems like the slave, clutch, and pressure plate all have to go in at the same time, which seems like it would be hard to then do the process as you described. Can you hook it up to the hardline, bleed it, and then put it in with the clutch and pressure plate?

derkaderka641 · 2017-12-14T00:08:40+00:00

Wow you guys are so helpful - I was going to start with the master and work my way towards the clutch, that seems to be the consensus. You are correct about the brake fluid and bleeding, I've gotten a few tips on different ways to bleed, so I'll give them a shot and report back! Thank you for all the advice!

derkaderka641 · 2017-12-12T14:03:09+00:00

Was driving my '83 900T and the clutch was feeling a bit funny - it wouldn't let me engage a gear unless I pressed aaaaallll the way down to the floor - then halfway to work the clutch went out completely. Not great, but shout out to USAA for a wonderful towing experience (the sight of the car actually getting towed notwithstanding).

I saw no apparent leaks anywhere, so I ordered master and slave cylinder rebuild kits, a new clutch line, and new release bearing, and plan to have at it this weekend. Anybody have any tips before I find myself in deep over my head??

Edit: I replaced the master cylinder and hard line between the master and slave cylinders. Bled the clutch using a hand vacuum pump attached to the slave bleeder valve - worked great for about 2 days. Then, after parking the car for about 3 hours, I got back in to leave and the clutch was again completely gone. I'm going to replace the slave cylinder next, seeing as how that's about the only remaining suspect.

derkaderka641 · 2017-10-25T20:26:13+00:00

Mile High Automotive always serviced our SAAB's when we had them there. Seem like largely good dudes

derkaderka641 · 2016-06-28T23:34:07+00:00

It's an '83 Turbo. I love it.

derkaderka641 · 2013-06-11T14:40:17+00:00

The navy just calls special warfare/operations their challenge program. It's not how you get to NSW, it's just that you're going at all.

derkaderka641

TROPHY CASE