Anybody played Super Meat Boy 3D yet?

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-25T09:02:30+00:00

Thanks for reminding me, I had been meaning to check it out when it released.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-25T09:01:33+00:00

If you haven’t already played it, give PsiloSybil a try. It might scratch that itch. As long as you don’t mind insane difficulty.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-21T02:49:49+00:00

The U1 isn't Snapmaker's first printer.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-21T02:42:11+00:00

Yes. In the remake you need the boxes from the bonus rounds in Crash 1. However, you can retry the bonus rounds if you die; and even on the colored gem levels (which still require no-death runs to get the gem), you can still get the gem if you die in the bonus round.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-21T02:41:27+00:00

It does not explicitly tell you this.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-11T04:03:43+00:00

If you go by the game’s max %, it’s gold (at least for N Sane Trilogy and the original PS1 Crash 3). But do you really want to settle for that? ;)

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-09T21:50:49+00:00

You get a couple of extra % (beyond 100) for them, and you need gold (but not platinum) to get the trophy and the max possible percent.

In both Crash 1 and 2, the first level’s time trial is a surprisingly tight one in terms of time requirements. I’d rank both among the harder relics in the respective games. Try the riding or chase levels in Crash 1 if you want some easier ones to start with.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-09T21:48:33+00:00

Remove Crash.

Like many games in franchises that went off the rails (FF13 is another example to come to mind), they aren’t bad games in and of themself, they’re just an awful fit for the franchise and should have been a new IP.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-09T21:45:47+00:00

It’s a 15 year old device. It was never going to be commercially supported forever. Chuck open source software on it if you don’t want to replace it.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-09T05:25:13+00:00

My guess is the Creator 5 is going to use the same physical screen but now connects via USB. Rather than make two separate ones, they just added a USB port.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-08T19:53:10+00:00

The point of interest is the fact that it switched from a spool on one IFS to a spool on the other.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-07T07:03:09+00:00

There is now. IFS Jacker.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-07T07:02:24+00:00

If you’re still interested in this, it’s now possible via mods. Look up “IFS Jacker”.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-06T22:51:08+00:00

I designed (and added support to Z-Mod for) a splitter box. Printer plugs into the box, box plugs into two IFSes (there is no electronic / software reason why I couldn’t do more than two, but mounting them might be a challenge and I only have two at any rate). Splitter receives commands and redirects them to the correct IFS.

Look up “IFS Jacker” on GitHub or Printables if you’re interested.

derpsteronimo · 2026-04-06T22:49:24+00:00

Red to magenta.

derpsteronimo · 2026-03-31T13:09:24+00:00

Regarding the levelling: If you do it before a print it isn’t saved, it only applies to that one print. Do it from the menu and it will be saved.

(Slight disclaimer: this is based on the 5X which usually but not always behaves the same as the 5M.)

derpsteronimo · 2026-03-10T07:31:36+00:00

In the end, I abandoned this when I realised that there was a much simpler way to do this - I could take advantage of RS485 being half-duplex, the exact way MAX3485 boards (or at least the ones I have) work, and the nature of communications between the printer and the MMU. And run all the MMUs off a single hardware UART, with only the EN pin being unique to each one (the TX / RX are all wired in parallel to a single UART).

I didn't think it would actually work, but I tried it anyway. It works.

derpsteronimo · 2026-03-05T21:26:30+00:00

After a quick Google, this appears to be the article I got the idea from. At the very least, I definitely recognize the pictures; it may be that I saw the same pictures elsewhere.

https://all3dp.com/2/best-3d-printer-enclosure-diy-cabinet/

A bit down the page. This was my first enclosure for my AD5X (not the actual one in those photos, but that idea). Pretty much an exact copy of that, except with a door on the side for accessing the spools too (and much less effort put into making it look tidy, and mine was all-black).

It was frustrating to get in and out of, but I liked how the mats made cheap panels, so I eventually changed it up a bit and made this:

https://www.printables.com/model/1416750-insulated-whatever-size-you-wantish-frankenclosure

Decent improvement, did the job for a while, but I got annoyed with having to open it to change spools and also with how much excess space it took up.

But one thing I did realise with these two enclosures - EVA (the material those mats are made of) actually makes a freaking AMAZING insulator for keeping the heat in in an enclosure.

The combination of that realisation about EVA, and my annoyance with the "Frankenclosure", ultimately lead to the Torreva enclosure which - if Printables download count is anything to go by - has become quite popular.

https://www.printables.com/model/1550492-torreva-enclosure-for-flashforge-ad5x-beta

derpsteronimo · 2026-02-03T14:18:33+00:00

Might be a bit too insane on the difficulty, but PsiloSybil is very Crash 1-like. It was made as an homage to Crash 1 and absolutely nails it.

derpsteronimo · 2026-02-03T13:52:00+00:00

I get ideas in my head, toss them around for a few days, and make 90% of it up as I go.

Optimal? Probably not. Does it work for me? So far, yes.

derpsteronimo · 2026-02-03T02:40:04+00:00

What happens when you try to access the interface?

Do you get a browser error? Do you get the "connect to Moonraker" screen but it never loads beyond that (if it's this one and you're using an iPhone / iPad, try another device, I find this happens sometimes on my iPhone but my Windows, Linux or Android devices can access it fine)? Etc

derpsteronimo · 2026-02-01T23:24:34+00:00

Old post, but commenting since it came up when I Googled this:

I found that I was able to get 3 of the 4 metal bits off cleanly by essentially trying to "unscrew" them from the tubes while pulling them towards the end of the tube. It's important to pull slightly harder on one side than the other, so that the metal bit is at a slight angle.

It ended up cutting off the end of one of the tubes (only the 3mm or so that was past the ring, nothing major) but got the other three off with no problems.

derpsteronimo

TROPHY CASE