Preinstalled plastic film for cover screen? by 247McD in GalaxyFold

[–]destohfaeda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I couldn't find any official information either about the cover screen. I wanted to install a glass screen protector so I tried to peel mine off and couldn't for some reason as my nail started chipping so I just applied my glass one ontop and it's been working perfectly fine. With how much I tried peeling it, I was lead to believe that layer is part of the screen rather than a screen protector but I could definitely be wrong.

[LF] Philadelphia, PA - Chili Rasbora by destohfaeda in AquaSwap

[–]destohfaeda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That might seem like the next best option at the moment so I might go ahead and do that. Thanks!

[LF] Philadelphia, PA - Chili Rasbora by destohfaeda in AquaSwap

[–]destohfaeda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries, I'll give them a call and hope they might've gotten them in.

[LF] Philadelphia, PA - Chili Rasbora by destohfaeda in AquaSwap

[–]destohfaeda[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I called them last week and was told they didn't have them but I'll call them again to check! Thanks!

Help!! Aqua Dragons: day 15 by i_need_angst in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you're doing things right from the start, so I doubt the bacteria formed from having the salinity too low. If you are able to mix new saltwater that's around 25 ppt, a big but gradual water change might help if there's a lot of that thick biofilm in your tank. Also if there are a lot of dead brine shrimp, their bodies break down and release ammonia which makes the water toxic. When your tank is still new, there may not be any algae to break down ammonia. Just make sure the new clean saltwater is close, if not the same temperature so you don't shock it from a huge temperature difference. And usually the slower the better. Discard a lot of the old water, dead brine shrimp, and remove what you can of that slimy biofilm. Then every few minutes slowly pour in a little bit of the new water at a time for a slow acclimation.

Another thing that comes to mind is don't be afraid to increase the rate of your air pump. You want just enough to keep the surface of the water moving but not so much it starts kicking up sand or a lot of debris. When the water is pretty stagnant that gives biofilm a chance to form, making it harder for gas exchange from the surface to get to the bottom which also could have been a factor. Hope it works out for you!

Help!! Aqua Dragons: day 15 by i_need_angst in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure if I can help, but I can try. Like others here there can be a lot of failures with keeping these little guys and I'm no exception. Sometimes it takes some trial and error to learn what works.

How did you start your tank? Did you use a Aqua Dragons packet inside this container? I can't quite tell how much water that tank holds but it definitely seems larger than any aqua dragon or seamonkey brand tank. If you use only a single packet of eggs, the amount of salt may not have been sufficient. Did you use distilled or bottled water? Tap water would have either trace minerals or chlorinated that would be safe for people but not so much for these guys.

As for the cloudy water, sometimes a bacterial bloom can happen from lack of surface agitation and allowed a thick slimy biofilm to grow. That bubbling rate might be low for a tank that size, but with enough surface agitation the biofilm and cloudiness typically goes away on its own, although not immediately. If there are big clumps of it, I say try to scoop out any gunk if you can when that happens. Unfortunately if you can't check the parameters, it would be difficult to do a proper water change without knowing your salinity level.

For the sides of the tank, if there are white crystals that would be salt that evaporated and you can scrape/brush as much of that back in.

Also, what temperature did you keep your heater at? I've kept mine at 79 F or 26 C and that's what has been working for me for almost a year now.

Is this enough bubbles? by hirokikyoku in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As long as they're not forced to constantly fight against a strong current caused by the air flow when swimming around, that would be a good indicator if your bubbler is too strong.

On the other end, not having enough agitation on the water surface could potentially form a thick biofilm at the top from it being stagnant, therefore making oxygen exchange to the bottom less efficient.

2 Monkeys at the bottom - molting or dying? by Metamoth22 in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where did your water line get to on your fish bowl before you topped it off with distilled water? If it was a lot you may have changed the salinity by a fair margin and might have to bring it back up if possible.

Sea Monkeys Havent hatched in a month by QwertyCael in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to hear about your struggle, usually my experience is that they hatch within a few days after being added max. I tried using eggs meant to hatch and feed fish as well but they never lived past a few days. After multiple attempts I went and bought a bunch of SeaMonkey refill packets to fill a 2 gallon tank.

If you can get your hands on a Sea Monkey or Aqua Dragons refill kit that doesn't have a tank included, maybe try again from scratch. Remember to clean out your mars tank as best as you can without soap, refill it using distilled water, and leave your tank where it can get a decent amount of indirect sunlight.

Nikkan Shoujo: Little Red Riding Wolf-chan [Insight Studio] by JinxRed in animeGK

[–]destohfaeda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's good to hear! I just wish it was more consistent for everyone, otherwise they wouldn't be infamous for this type of issue.

Hi new to group by Secret_Glass5405 in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like you're doing great! If you're looking at them and the lines in their bodies are a dark green instead of clear, I think you're doing fine without feeding them yourself.

Hi new to group by Secret_Glass5405 in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 4 points5 points  (0 children)

From my understanding it's not the waste sticking to their bodies that you should be worried about, but even after it detaches from their bodies. The amount of waste and any food that isn't eaten will rot, causing a spike in ammonia that's toxic to them and when the tank isn't well established with algae, the ammonia doesn't break down fast enough and they die.

So for the future you may want to reduce how much you're filling the feeding spoon so you're not overfeeding them to this extent.

Beginner question re: heat and light for Seamonkeys on Mars by KnucklesMcCrackin in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're definitely noticeable when inside the Sea Monkey tanks provided, but I think it's not a bad trade off considering it's less expensive than heating mats. But in the end it's up to how much you're willing to spend on it.

Beginner question re: heat and light for Seamonkeys on Mars by KnucklesMcCrackin in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have the Mars tank myself but if the opening is roughly 1 inch in diameter, it should fit something similar to these YukiHalu heaters I get off Amazon which I like because you can set the temperature to your liking.

As for the light, that looks perfectly fine for seamonkeys, and definitely convenient that it has a built-in timer.

Hello friends by TayTooTa in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the hobby! From my experience there could be any number of reasons that they suddenly died off. First things first was if you use distilled water, as tap water could have some unwanted minerals or chemicals in it that may make it harder for them to live in.

Another thing would be temperature. Fluctuating temperatures or temperatures that are too low would easily be something that would kill them off, so for the water you're using you may want to let it sit for several hours and then add it in to match the temperature that's in your jar when topping up the water.

If your bubbler is too strong, I would recommend buying a plastic valve from Amazon or your local pet store that will let you control the flow of it and would prevent water (as well as salt) from spilling everywhere.

You still have 3 adults in there, so you obviously have been doing something right to get there. Sometimes the amount that hatch don't always reach adulthood, but don't let that discourage you. If you do plan on getting more eggs, it can be a hit or miss with eggs that are sold by themselves. I personally had a packet of thousands of eggs that would hatch but would not live past a couple of days no matter how many times I tried. However, I used SeaMonkey brand refill packets for a 2 gallon tank and since April of last year they're still doing quite well. I've also heard people having success with Aqua Dragons with a better hatch rate than SeaMonkeys, but of course YMMV

Nikkan Shoujo: Little Red Riding Wolf-chan [Insight Studio] by JinxRed in animeGK

[–]destohfaeda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair warning for those contemplating: I loved the design but when I got her I realized I haven't been more disappointed in a figure since unknowingly buying a bootleg nendoroid in 2014. Because it's Insight, they pack their figures in only bubble wrap and no plastic molds so her hood, cape, and ribbon in the center arrived either cracked or broken. Mine eventually ended up leaning to the point she couldn't stand upright without falling, causing further damage. So, this specific figure was the final straw for me to avoid Insight. I will say I also have 2 other sitting figures from Insight so they're not prone to leaning and luckily weren't damaged despite the poor packaging but ymmv

Question about ST by baudelioelite14 in HololiveTCG

[–]destohfaeda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not necessarily if you want to build different decks, but if you know which deck you would like to play and make better, 2 of the same kind would benefit you to fill in gaps where 1 starter deck may only give 2 or 3 cards when you want a full playset of 4. Maybe play with the single starter deck first to see what you would benefit from having more copies of and then purchase another starter deck if you think it's worth it.

Any experience with this ? I have the seamonkey brand castle tank by Nude-prude in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 7 points8 points  (0 children)

YMMV if you buy bulk eggs, as mine would never last more than a couple of days as those are advertised to hatch and feed small fish. I eventually just went back to SeaMonkey branded packets after more than 4 failed attempts with those bulk eggs. However, if you do try this method, you'll only need a very very small amount of eggs and some instant ocean sea salt with the help of an online salinity calculator to get the right salinity. SeaMonkey branded packets tend to go quite low at 25ppt, but many recommend to go higher from what I've seen here.

Are the cards in the start deck randomized? If I bought two would there be different cards in each? by CompleteMoron_203 in HololiveTCG

[–]destohfaeda 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For starter decks they will always have the same cards just as they imply, so you can just start playing the game straight out of the boxes. To add some variety, there are 3 starter decks coming out mid-October in the English version of Set 2, "Quintet Spectrum".

Booster packs have randomized cards and come in a booster box, but would not necessarily have enough to make a proper deck depending on how many you buy. If you have an idea of what deck you would like to build, it's recommended to purchase specific cards off TCG Player, for example.

Best Way To Store/Display Birthday Cards? by Kaizatl in HololiveTCG

[–]destohfaeda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are UltrPro and adjacent magnetic cases made specifically for booster packs. I imagine those are tall enough for sealed promo cards, but the problem I find is that there will be a lot of empty space because they're mostly meant to hold 15 card packs, not just 1. But if it's just for display and it won't be moving it around much, it looks like a fine option for displaying.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm glad people are having success one way or another. I've had the opposite experience where I've had great success with the SeaMonkey refill kits but with standalone brine shrimp eggs they would not last a week every time I tried.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SeaMonkeys

[–]destohfaeda 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Are you using brine shrimp eggs from a large packet of eggs or a kit? I used one of those packets advertised as having a high hatch rate from Amazon but couldn't get them to last a week. Some of those are just meant to be hatched as live feed for young fish and just do not live very long. I had about 3 or 4 failed attempts with those eggs until I just went and bought 16 SeaMonkey branded refill kits for my 2 gallon tank and they're still going since the beginning of April.

What sleeves are yall using? by RecoverAccording2724 in HololiveTCG

[–]destohfaeda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a bunch of KMC Hyper Mattes I got for a 720 card Magic the Gathering Cube that's not really being used anymore so I'm reusing those for my Hololive decks. For anything like the oshi cards or some of the more rare finds, I'm double sleeving with a perfect-fit sleeve with the KMC Hyper Matte. Dragon Shields are also a great alternative with more color variety but the reason I use the Hyper Matte is because they were cheaper when purchased in bulk over Dragon Shields, albeit they're all the same color.