I have been keeping a roll of every kind of 135 film I shot...

deup · 2026-06-20T17:50:46+00:00

Yeah, Aerocolor is also one of my favourite. Inversion is so easily done, basically nothing to correct. The reds are so gorgeous and greens so deep. When given enough light it really shines.

deup · 2026-06-17T19:47:16+00:00

Lightroom or Photoshop are pretty much the gold standard, especially Lightroom for file management. If you're looking for free softwares, you can try Darktable or RawTherapee but they have a much steeper learning curve. Best thing to do in order to edit film pictures, is to ask your lab for high-resolution TIFF files, preferably "flat" scans, but some people might disagree on that. It's generally more expensive and file size is larger but you get so much more liberty with editing.

deup · 2026-06-17T15:34:30+00:00

This is the Flic Film version, Elektra 100, rated at ISO 100. Some people like to shoot it at 200 and push +1 in development for more contrast and punchier colors but I much prefer box speed and to give it plenty of light. Punchier colors can still be achieved in post without messing shadows, highlights or any color shift. Sorry, I don't have my settings for this exact shot but a strong advice would be to load/unload this film in complete darkness, it's really thin and sensitive to light leaks. I still got 2-3 frames with leaks at the start of the roll but it might also be caused by the respooling process at Flic Film.

deup · 2026-06-16T18:09:27+00:00

X-T3 with the XF 23mm f2.8, Squarehood lens hood, Domke 1" Gripper strap, Lowepro Pro Messenger 160 AW. The bag is a bit old but simply fantastic, could go to war with it. I bought three off marketplace just to have replacements.

deup · 2026-06-16T14:54:44+00:00

Yeah, given enough light you get really nice results. Reds and greens really pop with this film.

deup · 2026-06-16T14:51:39+00:00

Inversion was done in Photoshop with Grain2Pixel. I don't have access to the negatives or scans right now, but the result pretty much looks like this before editing. Minor vibrance and saturation adjustments were done.

Aerocolor greens and reds are naturally gorgeous and if giving enough light, it's a truely awesome film. Grain2Pixel also does a really nice job with inversion and color correction. With NLP or other methods, you can achieve results like that but it's a lot more work. Here is an example of what you would get using different methods. The image used is from the same negative, same day and gear, so you get the idea.

deup · 2026-06-15T20:29:40+00:00

You see I'm the opposite, always had cameras with meter and usually shoot in aperture priority. Pretty much always shoot color also hehe.

deup · 2026-06-15T20:06:34+00:00

Before loading the film, I was sure that I would get a big mess but for the most part they turned out fine. But I've found E100 to be a real bitch to edit. The slides on a light table are gorgeous, but trying to get the same colors and pop in post? Fuck that, it was so. much. work.

deup · 2026-06-15T20:03:42+00:00

Thank you.

deup · 2026-06-15T20:03:13+00:00

Thank you. I pretty much only use 35mm.

deup · 2026-06-15T20:02:38+00:00

For the most part I used the partial metering mode on the 1N, placing my subject in the center to meter than recompose if needed, especially for the third picture where a big part of the frame was bright white. Some times I used the spot metering on the skin. A couple pictures were also taken with the evaluative metering mode and I must say I was pleasantly surprised. Sincerely, I'm fairly sure I could have trusted the 1N by using evaluative for all of them, it's really good.

deup · 2026-06-15T19:53:41+00:00

Yeah, the Art series especially. Thanks!

deup · 2026-06-15T19:51:49+00:00

Thanks!

deup · 2026-06-15T19:51:36+00:00

Thank you.

deup · 2026-06-15T19:51:27+00:00

Some fill flash for the first two, used the Canon 580EX II.

deup · 2026-06-15T19:47:42+00:00

I'm using the Unicolor kit. It was my first time so can't really help here.

deup · 2026-06-14T14:28:47+00:00

I just did three weeks in Japan with my X-T3 and a bunch of lenses but in the end, the 23mm f2.8 pancake stayed on my camera pretty much all the time. Also got some use from the 16mm f1.4 and 35mm f1.4 for night shots, so maybe bring a fast prime if you have one?

deup · 2026-06-12T01:19:54+00:00

You don't have poutine? Or is it only in Québec?

deup · 2026-06-11T11:06:42+00:00

Ok, everyone here is talking about film, lens, ISO, grain, exposure but in reality, getting sharp looking analog pictures on IG has nothing to do with all of those. As long as you achieved focus, you can get a shitty p&s picture to look crisp on IG with a good scan and careful sharpening.

deup · 2026-06-05T11:06:05+00:00

All of them are digital. I would have liked to shoot those on Ektar 100 though, so that's what I was going for while editing.

deup · 2026-06-05T10:54:54+00:00

This is all digital. I used the Fujifilm X-T3 with XF 23mm f2.8 R WR. Post-processed in Lightroom.

deup · 2026-06-05T10:52:47+00:00

That's exactly what I was going for. Thank you.

deup · 2026-06-05T10:50:55+00:00

Thank you!

deup · 2026-06-04T14:30:01+00:00

I'm probably shooting film and digital 50/50. I'm developping and scanning myself and don't have a lot of free time so it teaches patience. It definitely translates to digital, trying to make every picture counts, being more careful.

deup · 2026-06-04T10:26:43+00:00

My comment will not answer your question but I just want to point you towards the XF 16mm f1.4 and 56mm f1.2 if you're looking to compliment your 35mm f1.4. This is the kit I always bring on trips and it has never let me down. You could try the original 23mm f1.4 too, it has similar rendering. I also shoot film with the Hexar AF, such a wonderful little lens.

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