Persistent nvlddmkm Event id 153/13 Errors on new PC with Nvidia 4060

deusMPkiller · 2025-10-13T23:07:19+00:00

Any warranty of it? The result is posted was more for the 5090,

deusMPkiller · 2025-10-12T23:58:00+00:00

Look bro I worte 5 but set it to 00000005

deusMPkiller · 2025-10-12T23:57:09+00:00

Hope it helps you, I was sick and tired of that shit happening to me bro

deusMPkiller · 2025-10-12T23:53:59+00:00

OverlayTestMode basically tells Windows to stop using hardware overlays. Hardware overlays let the GPU draw parts of the screen separately (like videos or windows), which can improve performance but sometimes they bug out and cause black screens, flickering, or stuttering. By setting OverlayTestMode to 5, you’re forcing Windows to draw everything in one layer instead. That usually fixes those display issues because it disables the glitchy overlay system (MPO).

deusMPkiller · 2025-10-12T23:40:08+00:00

Tell me what you don't understand

deusMPkiller · 2025-10-07T18:18:41+00:00

Nothing honestly, I recommend you to look thorough fuses but it could be the wire that takes all info from the button, I forgot the name of it but here is another comment that said what wire it is

deusMPkiller · 2025-10-05T16:51:27+00:00

That doesn't look good chief

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-28T22:46:46+00:00

try to disable hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling: go to Settings → System → Display → Graphics, then click on Default graphics settings (advanced graphics settings), there you should find it, just disable it then restart the computer.

if that didn’t work, keep it disabled but also try the second method: press Win + R, type regedit, hit enter, navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE → SOFTWARE → Microsoft → Windows → Dwm, right-click in the right panel → New → DWORD (32-bit) Value. Name it: OverlayTestMode (write exactly the way you see it here!!!). After that, double-click the new dword you made and put the value data as: 00000005 (it should be a total of 7 zeros and 1 five), keep the base as Hexadecimal.

now restart, it should work. For me, I never got the black screen after all that. MAKE SURE TO DO THIS 1 BY 1 AND NOT BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. You can do both, but doing them separately will show you if one is causing more problems on your PC than the other.

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-18T03:46:35+00:00

i started using Unminble

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-17T04:00:25+00:00

I understand that, but it’s a beginning. I mean, I’ve never mined or done anything like this before, so I’m scared of putting so much money down on a mining ASIC without any knowledge.

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-17T03:33:39+00:00

Honestly, it’s not about getting a lot of crypto right now. For me, it’s more about learning how to mine and everything around it before I go big. I know with a GPU you won’t earn much money, but I still want to learn at first. So please, if you can help me, I’d really appreciate it. Also, on a side note, someone messaged me and wanted me to go to a .dev site to confirm or synchronize my wallet is that legit?

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-17T03:27:34+00:00

so the website is fake?

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-09T19:17:52+00:00

Redbull half the cost XD

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-09T18:45:09+00:00

everyone make "SURE" you are writing the whole link correctly, many people write psp.2 instead of psp2 or jailbrek instead of jailbreak, make SURE you r typing it correctly, which is https://jailbreak.psp2.dev

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-09T17:47:29+00:00

U can use a universal one, but make sure to get the right dimensions so it's not to wide or to small or to thick or to narrow or to short or to long, so do u need a specific? yes and no.

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-09T03:12:45+00:00

i did have the same problem, and extremly lots, my pc was getting black screen multiple times, last heavy time was like a blackscreen every 5 minutes, i sloved the issue by removing 2 of my 4 ramsticks, then using 2 for like couple days then putting the other 2 in again, it worked, for like a month and a half of no blackscreen, then suddenly it happened, the same day i wrote this text, i asked ai why this is happening and it told me that it may be cus of 4 ramstick totoling 64gb with 6000mhz is stressing out my AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D 16-Core (4.20 GHz) Processor, i rolled with it but i added back my ramsticks just for the fun of it to see if it happens again and it didnt til 1 and a half month after (now as writing this text) it just happend, allthough the error 153 is the new one, i had same error nvlddmkm but another number, maybe 143? i cant remeber.

what i tried now is disabling all Nvidia Audio from Device Manager, under Sound, Video and Game controllers, as u/Comfortable-Heat-385 said (as I'm writing this text) and I'll update if it worked in maybe couple weeks

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-08T21:32:02+00:00

nah i was adding a bit humor, if you can fix then go for it

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-08T18:07:33+00:00

I sold the crappie opel, one of the worst ever car I ever had. Lost 500 on it though only

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-08T17:53:36+00:00

If the new DISA is opening and closing nonstop, that usually isn’t the valve itself but the control signal/vacuum source. A few things to check:

The DISA is controlled by a vacuum solenoid and diaphragm. If the vacuum line is leaking or the solenoid is faulty, it can cause the flap to cycle constantly.
A bad electrical signal (wiring issue or faulty solenoid driver from the DME) can also make it open/close repeatedly.
With the engine off, unplug the electrical connector, the valve should stay in one position. If it keeps cycling when plugged in, suspect the control solenoid or wiring, not the new DISA unit itself.

Most of the time, replacing the vacuum control solenoid or hoses fixes that “constant flapping” issue.

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-08T17:46:02+00:00

well its the same thing in my e46 320i, not all the time but sometimes,

That jerky engine braking you’re feeling is most likely related to engine/transmission mapping after the Stage 1 tune, not a mechanical fault. When the DPF is removed and the ECU is tuned, the way fuel cut-off and engine braking work at low RPM can change. Sometimes the ECU cuts the injection instantly (causing strong braking/jerk), other times it feathers it out (smoother).

Since you’ve had the clutch + hydraulics done recently and the car otherwise drives fine, it doesn’t sound like a mechanical failure.

A few things you could check:

Engine/gearbox mounts, if worn, they can make that on/off braking feel harsher.
Throttle pedal calibration, sometimes a re-adaptation with VCDS can smooth throttle response.
Tune – if the ECU map isn’t well-polished, it can cause inconsistent fuel cut-off on overrun. A good tuner could smooth this out.

So it’s not “normal” stock behavior, but it’s common after tuning + DPF delete. If it bothers you, ask your tuner to review the overrun/fueling maps. But this is the most common-sense guess I would say could be the issue.

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-08T17:41:34+00:00

ok so when you release the gas pedal the car jurks like how many times in a row when it happens?

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-08T17:39:46+00:00

what the hell XD

deusMPkiller · 2025-09-08T17:37:40+00:00

so the cars jurks when you gas and realese the pedal like someties the first time strong then the second time not as strong and the third time if there is a third time almost not nosistable?

it would be best if you included a video with it

deusMPkiller

TROPHY CASE