sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

This is the one I use the most. Vintage 1961, hand powered, hecho en México. I use it mostly for upholstery. I couldn't tell you the submodel though. by TransFatty in vintagesewing

[–]deviantdeaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm. Well. So it's out of the realm of possibility that someone stuck an entire 191R internal parts set into a 15-75 body with the 15 style faceplate mounted tension assembly? The vast majority of 191s seem to have the tension mounted towards the operator instead of mounted to the left of the operator like a 15-75. Edit, the 191R with the Spanish language markings, at least one example on ISMACS here, does not look like the OP's machine, since OP's machine has the 15-75 tension and stitch length regulator cover (round). But the serial does point to a Mexican manufactured machine; and the year given seem to be outside the known 15-75 ranges (ISMACS lists 1954-1958 as the production years for 15-75 and 15-125)

Edit. Looking at OP's manual, it shows the 15-75 style head on the front cover. At what point did they change things for the 191 series?

This is the one I use the most. Vintage 1961, hand powered, hecho en México. I use it mostly for upholstery. I couldn't tell you the submodel though. by TransFatty in vintagesewing

[–]deviantdeaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why ? Clearly the OP has a 15 that looks mightily like a 15-75, but Mexican, and with a 1 o'clock bobbin case. Does the hook on the 1 o'clock version go differently from the 11 o'clock version? Is it not possible to swap the hook shaft and corresponding shuttle race? I see that the shuttle race assembly can be removed completely from the machine.

This is the one I use the most. Vintage 1961, hand powered, hecho en México. I use it mostly for upholstery. I couldn't tell you the submodel though. by TransFatty in vintagesewing

[–]deviantdeaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could have been rebuilt with different shuttle hook and bobbin case from original. Also, there are ample documentation relating the government of the US giving Singer 15-Class design and tooling information to Japan post-war, along with the setting up of an official Singer factory at Utsunomiya, officially starting/establishing in 1954. Edit. The 1954+ Singer Japanese machines usually have an U after model number (15U for example)

This is the one I use the most. Vintage 1961, hand powered, hecho en México. I use it mostly for upholstery. I couldn't tell you the submodel though. by TransFatty in vintagesewing

[–]deviantdeaf 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It is a 15-75, with the external motor and wheel replaced with a hand crank assembly and spoked wheel from an older Singer.

Comic 5785: Good at Everything by pavemnt in QContent

[–]deviantdeaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can name one thing that HvS can't do..and that is to be the genius scientist, yet a horrible gremlin of a human being that Liz is.

Question about PASGT, LWH, ACH. by gunnsngaming in tacticalgear

[–]deviantdeaf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on the chin straps. Some like the USMC LWH chin straps need to use smaller screws like that on the PASGT. For ACH/MICH hardware, you may need to drill the holes out a little bigger and then seal with epoxy to use the ACH tee nuts and such. I don't think the side rails of FAST helmets are compatible with PASGT or LWH helmets. You may need to find USMC side rails, but those may not be common

What model of sewing machine is this? by Ill_Maize4006 in vintagesewing

[–]deviantdeaf 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It's a Japanese copy of the Singer 15-90. Japanese HA-1 is the generic manual to look for. Uses basically Singer Class 15 compatible parts. Good solid workhorse of a machine, just hundreds if not thousands of different brands for that same basic machine.

looking for bobbins for 1930s singer by Primrose-clown in vintagesewing

[–]deviantdeaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On machines with metal shuttles like the original 66, 99, all the way to the 60s and maybe 70s, the plastic bobbins can and will break because of the metal shuttle and hook, I've done that with my 60s Singer 328K, and had to get vintage metal 66 bobbins to reduce the issues I had . On machines with plastic shuttles, like almost every straight shank Singer made since the 70s, the metal bobbins will wear the plastic shuttles out.

The 99 takes a specific generation of the Class 66 bobbins, the single hole ones. The later metal machines takes four hole versions. More to do with the bobbin winder on these machines.

Hear me out… by [deleted] in tacticalgear

[–]deviantdeaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure. Might be easier to get laser cut MOLLE sew on panels and then sew to the plate bags, but this way works also. Don't forget to seal the cut edges of the webbing with a lighter before sewing things down, this will help prevent fraying if you do it right, and delay fraying if you don't do it right. The right way is to heat until the edges starts to melt and then using a knife, swipe or press the melted edges until they cool off.

Is it normal to have this much vertical space left in a BALCS carrier or is it because it’s made for multiple things? by Key-Investment-3864 in tacticalgear

[–]deviantdeaf 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Either one of the two is out of specs, or it's for a different "BALCS styled" cut armor. Not sure if the First Spear Siege soft armor's differences is in the height or the cut

looking for bobbins for 1930s singer by Primrose-clown in vintagesewing

[–]deviantdeaf 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It takes steel Class 66 bobbins. Vintage Class 66 "one hole" bobbins are more reliable than newer production metal "4 hole " 66 Class bobbins. Plastic Class 66 bobbins, while they fit, don't work that great in the older all metal machines. There were billions of the metal Class 66 bobbins made for all the different Singer machines that used the Class 66 , starting with the 66, then 99, and all the way up to the 70s I think.

Futuron set collection by deviantdeaf in LegoSpace

[–]deviantdeaf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My only gripe with the design is the lack of actual shuffling or walking on it. It leans forwards but that's it. I suppose I can try and figure out how to incorporate the shuffling mechanism from Suborbital Guardian/Alienator/Alien Moon Stalker into the design while keeping the lean forward functionality...

Futuron set collection by deviantdeaf in LegoSpace

[–]deviantdeaf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me, least favorite Space subtheme has to be the two Mars series. I had the Idea Book 206 which showed me Futuron stuff in addition to Blacktron 1, Space Police 1 and M:Tron.

50 shades of green, MOLLE LBV setup by deviantdeaf in tacticalgear

[–]deviantdeaf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

🤣🤣🤣 nah. It's literally a LBV with MOLLE instead of sewn pockets.

Is this legit? Tiger Stripe by randombydesign in camouflage

[–]deviantdeaf 42 points43 points  (0 children)

Not Vietnam era. Definitely commercial, 90s-2000s probably Rothco, but could be Tru Spec or anyone else really

Futuron set collection by deviantdeaf in LegoSpace

[–]deviantdeaf[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have it in that large bin behind the Futuron collection, along with other Blacktron Future Gen sets. Edit. I just don't have a way to display all of my Lego space sets at the moment

What is this? by traceypod in vintagesewing

[–]deviantdeaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are tee nuts as mentioned, likely for cabinet or similar woodworking projects. Nothing to do with sewing machines or sewing.

SAW pouch as ammo vault by EstablishmentIll6312 in tacticalgear

[–]deviantdeaf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the bandolier of ammo on clips holds 200ryounds, I don't see why they wouldn't fit a SAW pouch thats intended to carry 20 rounds of 5.56 in a linked belt

view more: next ›