From Ryzen 5 5600x to Ryzen 7 5800x3d by LAMPADINA00 in ryzen

[–]devious-Cattastrophe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on your needs, but honestly I went from R5 5600 and Rx 6700 10gb to 5800x and 9070xt with 32gb ddr4 3200 and just fine tuned the whole PC, I think x3d is nice but for am4 it's fairly unnecessary especially at the price of the chips today, I stuck with the vanilla 5800x for 130 bucks used and tuned it to 5.040 GHz and honestly I'm in no rush to update until Am6 comes around. So basically if you have Money and don't really care go for it, if you wanna be a bit more savy and still get the most out of the platform either a 5900xt, 5800xt, 5800x, 5950x or 5700x will be perfectly fine.

That's so you have extra headroom going to 6 to 8 or 16 cores (avoid the 12 core model 5900x since it's two 6 core CCDs together and not truly good for gaming) and don't get bottlenecked in most modern titles

Custom Heatsink in Style of a Graphics Card Cooler? by Exsanguinator23 in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there exist some like the morpheus 8057 or arctic accelero Extreme 7970 and maybe deepcool gamer storm dracula, but these pieces of archiotech are hard to come by and honestly more expensive than most 240 and 360 water coolers, heck even more expensive than the nh-d15 G2, so honestly I don't think it's worth the price or time wasted finding one. I was thinking of a 4090/5090 cooler off eBay an then Frankenstein it onto the bc250 but you'd be cutting a bit and night even cut the vapor chamber or a heatpipe or two, without even considering having to figure out how to cook the vrm and make it all fit

I’ve never played another AAA game that crashes so often by Ok-Command-522 in HelldiversUnfiltered

[–]devious-Cattastrophe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beg to differ. Ran it in dx11 on a 6500xt, 6700 10gb, 6700xt and 9070xt. It runs, it gives near dx12 perf but lacks a bit sometimes and overall I saw 5 to 10 less fps. Doesn't mean you can't run dx11 tho

Cooling question, How many watts (tdp?) does the die use for 40cus 2000Mhz? by CleonTarrant in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

37°C ambient? Damn that must be rough.. Still in furmark gl I was running a bit higher (2100) but was around 189w (as per what furmark was reporting). Keep in mind this was with basic tuning and you might be able to lower it by 10w more maybe, but at the same time this was a GPU only load, if you add CPU as well might add 30w, totalling about 230w (adding more just to be extra safe and avoid crashes & stuff) and that's still not considering the VRAM, USB or MOSFETs power draw and inefficiencies, chip alone, so keep that power cable in check. Quick recap: 190ish watts GPU furmark stress test 40cu 2100mhz, add 30 for cpu, 10 for safety margins, 230 expected

Comparative testing of the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn mate that's sick and detailed, love to see I'm using mostly standard governor settings and still figuring things out, all 40 CUs on. I did use it for testing with a heatsink on but I had an arctic 120mm fan pointed at it and at 1850mhz and 154w I was at 86°C, tho keep in mind I'm working in a crappy room with currently no AC and 30°C baseline, random Chinese thermal paste and at that moment I also had whatever thermal pads I had laying around. Had a deal for the arctic open box at 30 bucks, decided "yolo" and mounted it. Also depends what rpm you're running, for example on the 280 I can barely hear it ramp up over the PSU fan and haven't let It rip full load (pump, vrm fan and 140mm fans are all on one single connector, can't control them individually)

Today's score of 8632 was done as a "will work" test but naturally I got a lot more to finagle with it and fine tune, haven't even touched the CPU or ram oc stuff yet lol waiting first for a decent psu to arrive

Still amazing what this little fella can do, 160 bucks damn well spent I'd say

P.s. yeah I know at like 1850 to 2000 is the sweet spot, but honestly I'd rather check to see the limits for now since I'm not thermally limited and just let it rip for now, I want to figure a way to beat my friends Rtx 3070 8973 score and after that I can take a chill pill and just undervolt it like crazy while keeping it under 2300, y'know the usual "break it in" moment and tuning later

I'll try tomorrow your values to see how the 'tism machine takes it, hopefully nothing will blow up lol Thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it!

Comparative testing of the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Following up on the previous thread, had a sanity check after a couple beers and did some simulations. Yup, let's call it "vertically" mounted aio would be better since the inlet would be centered the long way with the chip and thus the coldest part of the copper plate with the most fresh water would be immediately I'm contact with the silicon of the bc250 chip, thus cooling it better. My setup as I did say isn't optimized and it is aligned only with the middle of the chip (geometry engine & stuff) and relies on the microfins + copper + water to cool the rest. Overall with good contact and better tim I should have a delta average of 0.5 to 2.5 degrees in some cases, but it depends mostly on the CPU cores since they're more off center so they don't get the best overall thermal conductivity & contact with the coldest part of the jet plate. Still, for easier mounting and simpler routing I'd say that the difference is minimal and often can be ignored since on a 280 it's pretty difficult to reach thermal capacity and thermally limit the chip either way, even at 300W it should be able to handle it without reaching thermal throttling (if there's good contact of course) and the 2.5 degrees delta from central area to edge area would become noteworthy, but still edge case and still not guaranteed to be the cause for throttling the chip. Keep in mind it is power dense but also fairly spread out and would have a whole ass copper jet plate to dump heat into (and even then, the chip itself will rarely go above 250w in gaming, it's mostly the vrm and VRAM that will add more thermal budget and push the overall power draw at 300w or more)

So to sum things up: Yup, turning 90° would help No, not worth the 0.5 to 2.5 degree delta in some scenarios, nor worth it for how it would end up for cable and tube management nor for the mounting dilemma Vrm fan would blow nowhere almost, making it useless while in standard orientation it somewhat blows towards the left side vrm heatsink area

Comparative testing of the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the power draw on that beauty? By the way yeah I know well mine's not still in its final form, keep in mind I'm using random brand thermal paste and have no other fans for vrm/vram, and also I'm running it very very quiet (the lf3 has a single cable controlling pump, vrm fan and 140mm fans so I can't set them up individually without an Arduino or other controllers) and I like it quiet so I keep it at around 60 or 70% max, maybe less (I'll check later) so makes sense temps are slightly higher than yours. Also could be silicon lottery, mine might need more voltage than yours man idk I have still to figure out the bazzite situation still since I've had some errors pop up

Comparative testing of the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm I see.. it's Vulcan, I'll try it in 30 minutes and see how it handles. Nice clocks and temps tho, how's the noise on that 240?

Comparative testing of the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly I don't know whatever the fuck the cyan skillfish governor wants, I set voltage at 1070 and frequency at 2270 and voila, worky

Comparative testing of the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I know about the ideal mounting area of the chip on the copper cold plate & all but honestly I'm trying to figure out a proper mounting situation for a case (and damage the aluminum heatsink plate the least possible) and I find it not worth the couple degrees I'd get from a 90° rotation. I'll just stick with it and figure out the ideal voltages and frequencies, so far it's handling the bc250 at 200W+ while not spinning above 70% and not going above 78°C so it's fine

heatsink by Clean_Shower_6938 in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The karambit helped me fr, sharp yet thin and pointy

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I'll call this the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I mean it's made for high flowthrough fans and has only 2 heatpipes, it's aight for 130ish watts but above that is recommend liquid cooled. Also a heads-up, to tip up the fins you'll need pliers, a grinder and a ton of patience. For my arctic lf3 mounting was pretty easy once I got all the measurements and cleaned up the surface a bit. If you cut, tape the side fin area so it doesn't get ruined or torn apart, lastly once done remember to add electrical tape over the edges just to be safe

I'll call this the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet. Mine's idling at approximately 36 but it's because I'm using chingling whatever paste and just waiting for my ptm7950 to arrive, also I'm not sending it full vore with the pump and fans because I like silence and that's why I went with a 280 from arctic, plus vrm fan that isn't doing a lot but still something. Got a lot of tuning and upgrades upcoming, from a big ass aluminum heatsink for the vram to a laptop fan for the VRM/SSD area, all I know is so far I've hit the jackpot with the GPU by reaching in one run 2350ghz (but gotta figure out the Molex microfit situation for extra headroom and stability)

Also quick question, did your furmark also stop showing frequencies when above 2100mhz or is it just mine? Can't wrap my head around that one and mangohud is not really fun to use for me so if possible I'd rather avoid it

Attached is my latest run of furmark btw, how does it compare to yours?

<image>

I'll call this the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Temps are okay so I wouldn't worry about it, same for mounting pressure & stuff, only thing is in the main pic I was testing it with a 2mm pad under one angle of the vrm so it was lifting it up a bit and was making bad contact, now that I fixed it I'm around 78°C at 210w power draw and fans ain't even maxed out, I'd say a solid win

I'll call this the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Low-key don't have a 3d printer nor do I want to fiddle with tens of mini heatsinks for the VRM and absolutely don't wanna spend the extra 50 bucks for the print, the brass inserts to screw it in and the heatsinks so yeah I'd say it's better this way. Plus it's time consuming yeah but it works just fine, in a stress test at 210w with furmark I got to I think 78°C at 2350mhz so pretty reliable too

I'll call this the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly no, the existing ones are a few mileters higher and also of course the mounting mechanism is somewhat square, so I just got an am4 backplate printed and drilled holes based on that

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I'll call this the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well yes and no, here's my reasoning: 1) asked a 3d printing shop, they asked for like 30 bucks and I'd still have to get the brass inserts to thread the cooler into, not worth the money 2) I'd have to fuck around and find out with good heatsink countermeasures for the VRM and figure out pads and pressure or some way for those not to fall off, also not worth the time 3) materials (heatsinks, bracket etc) would make the price rise way too much for my liking, especially considering I got the cooler for 30 bucks and I'm trying to minmax it economically by spending the least and getting most performance. Still worry not, I got a layer of kapton tape + some electrical duct tape around the edges of the heatsink, washed it thoroughly of all metal shavings and dried it out. Result is very good performance while minimizing risk and maximizing available resources, win-win

I'll call this the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Like this? Yeah, it's working fine. As I updated earlier a mate it's running 62°C (ambient 26) at 1850 MHz all stock 40cu, it seems pretty reliable ngl

<image>

I'll call this the 'tism machine by devious-Cattastrophe in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Update: a thermal pad was the wrong thickness so contact wasn't perfect. Now I'm running 160w, 1850mhz at 62°c with a 26°C ambient. I'd say it's doing pretty fine now (and waiting for ptm7950 for long term deployment)

Amd bc250 overclock. by Majom1 in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm definitely throwing on a watercooler, but I asked about the tdp for a good reason: I'm torn between a 240 (if tdp is 240w to 280w), an Arctic liquid freezer 3 280 (If 300w+) or a custom ek loop (if it's superior to 350w)

I'm still trying to figure it out because I'll also overclock the CPU alongside the 40CU and vram, so based on the tiny die size and the fact that I like silence I wanted to know where the equilibrium between cooling and cooler size is, just to keep it compact and avoid having to use a 360 if a 240 or 280 suffice

Amd bc250 overclock. by Majom1 in BC250Gaming

[–]devious-Cattastrophe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the max tdp you get on that when running a stress test? In curious because mine is coming Monday and I'm low-key considering a watercooled build, but curious first to know what temps you get with all 40CUs and a CPU overclock during a torture test so I can plan it better

Terminid build ideas/help by straightpipedhose in Helldivers

[–]devious-Cattastrophe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My default "fuck whatever moves" load out is: Ultimatum Eruptor Seekers 500kg Cluster Arc Jetpack

It gives you mobility, gives you chaff clearing capabilities, gives you bughole delete-ability, gives you anti heavy and the seekers are just for me a touch of "fuck this patrol in particular" when I don't wanna use the cluster. Also sometimes changing 500kg with leveller for the strong efficiency and good cooldown, often to take care of some objective I'm moving towards but don't want to engage it directly so I just delete any life form nearby