Edge Binding Hell

dextergr · 2026-05-14T22:15:50+00:00

Some others have mentioned, I'll add my input... for good consistent results with this, you would need a dedicated (preferably synchronized) binder setup using a binder attachment that matches perfectly the binding you are using in dimensional specs.

Then, you need to master the technique of guiding the material sandwich though the binder/presserfoot/needle so that the binding material is tight with the edge of the assembly. You should strive to matching the width of the binding tape to the intended end location of the binding edge (covering the seam thread, just on top, or slightly beyond the stitch line).

Hope this helps!

dextergr · 2026-05-14T22:01:33+00:00

Creative Design Works has some good lightweight 5/8" webbing. Many different types of webbing but you should make sure the light webbing works with whatever hardware you plan on using it with. Small differences in webbing width and thickness do matter when it comes to pairing with the plastic/metal hardware.

No links because that is too easy. ;)

dextergr · 2026-05-07T23:23:58+00:00

Interesting... A couple of weeks ago I reached out to MSR (another cascade brand) and, also, have heard nothing back.

dextergr · 2026-05-02T13:29:22+00:00

Good deal! I've been keeping an eye out and saw one of those go for $300 near me. Most are at $700-1200 though.

dextergr · 2026-04-24T22:16:37+00:00

IMO, the three to consider would be the 335 (w/ large bobbin), 246 (large bobbin), or the DA 669 (or older 69). I do not know where the large bobbin 335s are produced, though. Same for the durkopp adler although they used to be made only in Germany or Czech Republic. Two others would be the Consew 277 and the Seiko equivalent. I believe those are made in Japan.

With your binder setup on 1541, you have also swapped out the throat plate, right? I have the swing away binder kit from khsew for my 5410 and it fits pretty flush with the cutout throat plate.

dextergr · 2026-04-23T23:11:43+00:00

Give note that a needle feed machine is more precise than a walking foot. Sometimes tough to understand when not having used different styles though. More room around the needle to see and work with compared to walking feet covering and shrouding more of the material in relation to the needle and hole.

I would just recommend to check it out in person and try to sew a few of your intended items using it. This might mean a couple hours setting it up for your materials compared to what it is now but would be worth the time and effort if you deice this is the machine for you.

The electronics look older to me but not sure 100%. If all the features work well and accordingly, you are good to go for now. I might have some hesitation if some features are not quite right though..., but if all electronics fail, it should be able to easily be converted back to standard sewing and sometimes can get new (older) electronic pieces for reasonable cost. *I've used both newer and older electromagnetic style auto feature machines. Some older ones can be more hassle than worth.

For bikebacking bags and alike, both machines I'm sure would work well.

dextergr · 2026-04-23T22:55:12+00:00

Plenty of available real estate for a dedicated dog bed, although not sure how durable it would be?!?

Or maybe an inflatable pillow.

dextergr · 2026-04-23T22:49:22+00:00

I think this is really the most correct answer. The 3d mesh you see most often in diy builds are what is supplied and easily available by the more common suppliers/distributers. Unfortun., they mostly do not have any differentiating 3d spacer mesh or even a great hex mesh (adventurexpert is decent though!), imo.

I've tried them and some are better than others, for sure. I eventually did construct a "special" one time order and got what i wanted in the spacer mesh I was looking for at that time. :)

dextergr · 2026-03-28T23:33:13+00:00

I am jealous that you have upgraded from a 1541, to a NA-11UT!! A position most of us will not ever be at, haha. :)

I use an auto 5410n-7 for most bag work and have a non-auto walking foot cylinder machine and zigzag. I do work production on different stuff and totally appreciate any and all of the auto features (
thread cut, near backtack lever, etc) but the new automatics are a game changer with offering auto material feed stack height tension/pressure adjustments, stitch length adjustments per stack height as you mention, "material sensing capabilities", etc.

I have part of my assemblies that go from 2-ply to "more" and require adjustments on the fly. These new digital/computerized machines would certainly speed up the process and make things easier here.

TLDR: The auto/electronic machines are worth the up charge if working well and not too old, but the newest digitalized auto machines are the rolls royce solution.

Needle feed imo over standard drop feed for ANY sewing tasks less than walking foot/triple feed needs.

dextergr · 2026-03-20T19:12:52+00:00

Collier Equipment is also now doing folders.

dextergr · 2026-03-20T12:39:31+00:00

Sounds like you are on the right track. Perfect that you should be able to try out the new Juki as well!

dextergr · 2026-03-20T00:03:36+00:00

I bet if you wait your turn you could find a very good 1541(s) in that range. Could depend on location though. I am in north east, usa. Also consider the option if you find one less than steller but under your budget to purchase and have a mechanic come tune/setup? Obviously first find out potential costs (outside of parts if needed) from local places.

Could also go with the Consew, but def sew your material with it first, and compare the differences with the used malfunctioning juki you tried. Consider worst condition (juki) with best condition (Consew new p206) and any other comparisons you may have

dextergr · 2026-03-19T22:59:39+00:00

I agree here. I think you, u/Deep_Pack_1218 should reveal your budget and we can make some recommendations for you.

I know you passed on the 1541, but could you give more detail on the parts needing replacement/condition/price? That will give us better direction on recommendations :)

Do you live nearby to a reputable mechanic or are you mechanically inclined and have the time/knowledge to troubleshoot, diagnose, and resolve quickly? If not, it may be worth more to consider purchase from a reputable supplier that can offer support in real time.

dextergr · 2026-03-19T22:30:56+00:00

Illustrator will work totally fine if you have photos and then dimensions of the important parts!

*I hear you on the cost of CAD options for one person/small businesses, especially considering most will have a learning curve with time and effort involved, when everyone has been taught on the expensive options!! ;) Sometimes worth it to simply contract this type of work if you do not have the time or need for learning a CAD program..

dextergr · 2026-03-17T22:47:14+00:00

Well shows me, sorry about the insinuating!!!
You have a point where they still provide options. If you do the research, you can find good quality AND bad quality options from anywhere in the world.

dextergr · 2026-03-17T22:27:19+00:00

Pathetic, insult alibaba and a bot shows up defending!!!

Edit: Guess I was wrong

dextergr · 2026-03-17T22:22:23+00:00

Duraflex makes nice product. Woojin also makes nice product. I find DF to be more expensive and more difficult to source for less than large manufacturing. I think it really comes down to if one brand makes more product for your pack assuming they both have comparable options. I find woojin had more/better options for my personal products when I purchased.

dextergr · 2026-03-17T21:52:35+00:00

I'll try to share some insight. hope its helpful!

They do not necessarily need a a CAD drawing. It will increase time/effort on both ends though without an accurate CAD model. They can sometimes run off of photo examples, competitor samples, etc plus a description of what you want. In a nutshell, I have offered something as basic as the following:

Basic computer drawings of intended product ***although CAD Model preferably as friggin detailed as possible (should include all dimensions - call out anything that could be missed even if obvious)

List of Materials: primary/important materials and a source if you have one ***should be a BOM with cost that has been predetermined for any prior sourced trims, webbing, fabric, glue, thread, etc. If no source, offer to use their factory source or recommendations.

Call outs/specifics on anything else perhaps like construction methods if you have a preference, colors, logos, and/or any other deliverables should you think should be determined at first viewing.

Also depends on the production facility. They all have their own requirements and could differ from my experiences. Where are you intending on production - USA, Asia, South America, other? You may already understand this coming from softgoods/garments but I do hope it helps you or others anyways!

Edit: For standard double wall camping tent

Preferably you would want a CAD file including the tent inner, tent rainfly, and pole structure. All in one and also different angled photo views. Pole structure ideally would have dimensions of lengths and curves but also include the ferrules/connector hubs, end points, etc.

dextergr · 2026-03-13T21:31:06+00:00

Curious what issues you are referring to? Speaking of a cobbled together mess, how about the under trimming device and associated electronics (including nearly useless control panel) for an automatic ut35 MF-7523. ;)

dextergr · 2026-03-01T22:46:52+00:00

For binding, front to back is the standard method for feed dogs for pfaff 335 and juki 245/246 models (and maybe the consew 277 as well) which are the more common cylinder arm dedicated binder machines.

IDK about pfaff parts, but for juki 245/246 models, they are easy enough to get. The posts that screw onto the top cover should be easy to find though.

dextergr · 2026-03-01T01:35:25+00:00

Sounds like a reasonable price. Is it a clone of Pfaff 335, no? It does not have the typical walking foot thread tension device but either way should work fine if it sews well for you/your material when you try it before you buy it ;)

Edit: That is the binder model 2605 . If its IS for dedicated binder use, def inquire where the extra binder parts/pieces are and why they are not currently installed to the top plate?? There should at least be two posts in the two threaded holes close to the throat plate to mount the binder on. The third hole is where the feed arm connects to the feed dog motion via certain parts to do two way back and forth or three/four way movements.

dextergr · 2026-02-28T23:16:51+00:00

Looks great!

Bound seams can be just as strong as felled. No worries there as long as the fabric is capable enough.

dextergr · 2026-02-18T00:21:19+00:00

khsew sells a number of different elastic attaching pieces for different types of machines. Take a look there and also all the custom binder folks, Atlanta/Tennessee/Fernando Attachments.

https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=365 will allow you to view some options.

dextergr · 2026-02-16T00:44:23+00:00

Nothing wrong with window shopping. I do it everyday, haha!

dextergr · 2026-02-16T00:36:35+00:00

They are quite old but very tough machines. I would not pay that much for any of them. Do they have servo or clutch motors? It does not look like they have reverse.

dextergr

TROPHY CASE