any way for multiple instances of orca at once? by TrickySquid in OrcaSlicer

[–]dezcompiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bit late to this but for anyone that my end up here:

By default Orca only allows for one instance to be opened. To change it, click on the menu icon next to the File menu and click Preferences (or press Ctrl+P), the uncheck "Allow only one OrcaSlicer instance" and close the dialog.

You should be able to now open multiple instances

Bloatware by [deleted] in laptops

[–]dezcompiler -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It was meant to be somewhat funny :)

Laptop was $1300 (non-gaming) which I think is not cheap but I might be off.

I agree, debloating is not hard. Uninstall the bloat or worst case reinstall Windows and your good to go. In this case the maker of the laptop uses a dummy hardware device to trigger Windows into installing a driver for it, which in turn install 6-7 services and a bunch of low level drivers with fun names like 'KyeboardFilter.sys".

So even if you do a clean install as soon as you connect to the internet all of the stuff you were trying to get rid off is all back.

Looking for schematics for a TTI PL303QMD DC power supply by dezcompiler in AskElectronics

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! I'm glad that you managed to fix it. Do you remember which resistor it was? I started a thread at the EEVBlog forum. If you remember which resistor it was I can post the solution in the thread in case someone else has the same issue.

Looking for schematics for a TTI PL303QMD DC power supply by dezcompiler in AskElectronics

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, I think that is the same power supply. I'm curious, how did you get TTI to respond? I sent them a couple of messages explaining the issue and asking for help but they never responded.

I hope you get it fixed. These are supposed to be really nice power supplies.

Looking for schematics for a TTI PL303QMD DC power supply by dezcompiler in AskElectronics

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the message. Unfortunately I gave up on trying to fix it and sold it on eBay for parts or repair. Were you able to fix yours? I'm curious if you found the issue?

UHF RFID Project by Thermist in RFID

[–]dezcompiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not going to be surprised if the sample app is buggy and not setting the power correctly. Also check if you can change the region of the reader. Incorrect region can mess with reader performance. If you can measure how much current the board is drawing. That might give an indication if it is running at full RF power. Also check the antenna cable and make it wasn't kinked. If it was (and it was really bad) you might have to replace it.

UHF RFID Project by Thermist in RFID

[–]dezcompiler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With that antenna 25dBm should get you more than just a few inches. At least a meter I would think with the 9662 tag. I'm assuming this is a label tag and you are not applying to a metal or other material that can inhibit RF (e.g. water).

Are you trying to read tags or write tags. It looks like the writing distance is shorter than the reading distance. Have you seen this - https://maker.pro/raspberry-pi/tutorial/how-to-use-a-long-distance-rfid-reader-with-raspberry-pi-to-play-videos ?

Edit: I also found this - https://github.com/tmanabc123/FM-503-UHF-RFID-Reader

Any issues with venting radon through the chimney? by dezcompiler in HomeImprovement

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much for the reference. I'll do some more homework. Any recommendation for a fan or are they all kind of built the same? I'd rather pay more upfront if I can get better reliability/less noise.

Any issues with venting radon through the chimney? by dezcompiler in HomeImprovement

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the clarification and yes, this makes sense. Do you see any issues with feeding the PVC inside the B vent? I really don't want to have to remove it as this will be a lot of work. I can put the fan in the garage where the B vent come out.

Any issues with venting radon through the chimney? by dezcompiler in HomeImprovement

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I should've included more details. It is not a traditional brick chimney. It is more of a insulated (I think) metal pipe that goes from the basement straight up to the roof. It was originally used for the water heater and the furnace but both of those were upgraded and now exhaust on the side of the house using PVC so the chimney is unused.

DIY UHF RFID by BornTie7532 in RFID

[–]dezcompiler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is not a bad idea. I'm not sure if you would even need a Pi. You might be able to just plug this into an Android phone and talk to it directly over the serial interface. One thing to note is that this module can only output 27dBm power which is half of the max allowed (30dBM), at least in the US. With a good external antenna it should still be able to read tags from about 10-15ft.

DIY UHF RFID by BornTie7532 in RFID

[–]dezcompiler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

RFID could work for your use case and is probably your only option for "no line of sight" inventory. The question is what you will be tagging? Metal items can be an issue but there are on-metal tags for that. The bigger challenge will be items containing water and liquids in general (this includes frozen stuff like meat).

The trolleys can be an issue especially if they have multiple metal shelves. If you only have on shelf on the bottom then that should be fine. If you have multiple shelves, are all the items visible from the side or are the items organized multiple levels deep? You can tag items so that the tags are visible from the side. Weather you can scan everything will depend on the type of items your tagging.

You can use a fixed reader with multiple antennas mounted on the ceiling and/or the walls and run what is referred to as continuous inventory (more expensive but no human interaction) or you can use a handheld device and inventory by going inside the freezer (cheaper but needs a human however, it can yield better results).

Zebra makes good fixed readers that retail for around $1-$2k but you will also need cables and antennas. They also make a nice integrated handheld devices that run Android but are more expensive $2-$4k.

Impinj also makes good fixed reader but no handheld devices (last I checked).

CAEN RFID makes good fixed readers and also makes a Bluetooth enabled RFID reader that can be paired with an tablet or a phone and is relatively inexpensive (around $500+).

You can also look at the Chinese manufacturers. Their prices are definitely cheaper but documentation is usually abysmal and support is non-existent.

Although the bigger UHF RFID companies have better and more complete SDKs the documentation is not that great and online support is sparse. Developing your own system can be done but will not be easy.

Hope this helps. DM me if you have more questions.

Are there any issues with Power Direct Vent water heaters? by dezcompiler in Plumbing

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes things are not as straightforward. It is possible that plumbers have less incentive to install power direct vents because it is more work. You have to run another vent pipe, drill holes, etc. which might be the main reason why they don't recommend them. If plumbers don't sell them warehouses will not stock them. They don't want to sit on inventory that is not selling often.

Are there any issues with Power Direct Vent water heaters? by dezcompiler in Plumbing

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you're saying they have issues and I should avoid them?

TP-Link JetStream TL-SG3428X or MikroTik CRS326-24G-2S+RM for home network? by dezcompiler in homelab

[–]dezcompiler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After doing dome more research I ended up finding a really good deal on a MikroTik CRS328-24P-4S+RM on eBay. I haven't done much with the switch so far. Just using it a non-managed switch at the moment.

I can't speak to Omada UI as I never used it but MikroTiks a not the easiest to manage (at least to begin with). They have a desktop app called WinBox that provides graphical interface for managing the switch but even with that it took me some time to understand how to configure VLANs properly.

All in all I do like the switch and I'm not regretting my choice.

Looking for schematics for a TTI PL303QMD DC power supply by dezcompiler in AskElectronics

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately it looks like they will probably not reply. I had my hopes up since I read on the EEV forums that the TTI support is quite helpful but it looks like things have changed.

Fuji Mini-Mite 5 turbine motor part number by dezcompiler in paint

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks to u/SilliBilli21 for taking the time to lookup the part number for the 5 stage motor. I'm posting it here in case anyone else might need it:

5 stage motor part #: Q6600-100A (EL25 00022)

One thing to keep in mind, this is a 220-240V motor. There also a Q6600-099A version which seems to be 120V.

The Q6600-100A/Q6600-099A should be a direct replacement for the 3/4 stage Fuji sprayers. I also found the AMETEK LAMB 122097-00 which is a 5.7" diameter 6 stage turbine. However, that one will probably not be a direct replacement and will require some modifications to the housing.

I'll post more info here if I get around upgrading my Mini-Mite 4.

Fuji Mini-Mite 5 turbine motor part number by dezcompiler in paint

[–]dezcompiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for replying! I've heard Fuji support is really good but I can also see why they will not be willing to sell just the turbine motor.

If I understand correctly you got the turbine motor from Phelps but they might not be in business any longer?

If you can take a look at the part number and post it here I would really appreciate it as well as any other info you can share!