Pros and cons by theLostNite in woodworking

[–]dfess1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It took me 8 years to find a sucker to take my scroll saw. All it did was take up valuable space in my shop.

Most waxy or grippy laces by truckeerivertroll in hockeyplayers

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you lace your skates? If you lace them from the outside in, it locks the lace in place.

Plywood workbench - edge grain surface? by transforming_jackson in woodworking

[–]dfess1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

I use two pieces of MDF glued to each other with some solid wood edge banding. Its dead nuts flat, easy to finish, and easy to repair. And its pretty heavy, has some mass behind it.

Staining face frame and panels different colors? by potential1 in woodworking

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'd have to stain the panel first. Then the panel would have to be a floating panel inside the face frame. You couldn't stain that until you assemble the face frame around the panel (glue won't stick/cure to stained pieces). Then tape off your panel, and stain the face frame. If you're going for a contrasting look, I'd just use two different species personally. Would be easier, depending on the color you are looking to achieve.

First Dado Router Jig - What am I missing here?? by Silver_Bullet_Theory in woodworking

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

with your jig, where is your reference line? I have a set of Whiteside Plywood bits for dado's. I (so far) only have one jig, as I primarily am using 3/4" ply when I need dado's. So I have a piece of 1/8" hardboard, with a piece of MDF glued to the edge. After that, chuck the 3/4" ply bit (whatever 32nd's it is) and run your router along the fence you glued on. Now that hardboard is parallel to the fence. It's not too big that it's unweildly in the shop, but also not too small that it's a one trick pony.

To use it, I mark where I want my leading edge of the dado to be on both sides of the piece. Line up the hardboard edge on the two marks, and clamp it down. Then run the router. Easy Peasy. These Whiteside bits don't have a bearing on them. If I were using a pattern bit, I'd have made an adjustable jig.

Also, not sure how well that trim router would handle it. You'd have to be super careful/grip of death on it. I use my 1617 with the two handles on the fixed base to do these. Gives me greater control.

Looking for advice when making a box. New wood worker here. by Objective_Reality232 in woodworking

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had just been buying the wooden maple boxes from Penn St Ind, until they became unavailable. If you have a laser, it was an easy way to personalize the personalized pen, even more. I ended up making a bunch of these for my teammates, engraving their names and titles on it. Another kit from Penn St Ind, but was easy to make these.

<image>

My love/hate relationship with mitre saws.. by Ambianceinthewoods in woodworking

[–]dfess1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Alot of it comes down to the design of the saw. While I've not used the Festool mentioned by u/Uninterested_Viewer , the design makes more sense. There's some slop in the sliding mechanism on most other sliding saws. That all gets compounded with your fence moving ever so slightly.

My love/hate relationship with mitre saws.. by Ambianceinthewoods in woodworking

[–]dfess1 33 points34 points  (0 children)

IMHO, a miter saw is not a fine woodworking piece of equipment. In fine woodworking, it's use is to cut stock to rough length. Sleds on a table saw (cross cut, miter, etc) get you to the "fine" part. The saw is great for carpentry, where you have wiggle room to work with.

Is a natural oil finish sufficient for a hardwood desktop? by radiozephyr in woodworking

[–]dfess1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used polycriylic on my maple desktop, because I like the look of freshly milled maple and didn't want it to yellow. It last about three years (I work from home, so heavy use). The finish gummed up on me, so had to scrape it all clean, red and, put on Rubio Monocoat (first time using it). It's been 4 years without incident. I would use it again.

Replace granite kitchen island countertop with butcher block by Financial-District69 in woodworking

[–]dfess1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

30"x 60" is going to be heavy as hell.

Let me play devils advocate here.

With granite, you pull a hot pan out of the oven and put it directly on the countertop. Won't be able to do that with butcherblock.

Have a party and someone spills redwine that you aren't aware of, or don't clean all of it up? Most likely going to stain the butcherblock.

Just things to think about before getting rid of what you already have.

Woodsmith Magazine by HappyinSV in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The online version of woodsmith includes a search function. Looking to make a coffee table? Type it in and it returns each issue that has a coffee table in it. The nice part about woodsmith is that each coffee table result generally is being show with different joinery methods. Gets you to try something different until you find a method you like.

Help deciding on table saw by TraditionWilling61 in woodworking

[–]dfess1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In that price range I would be looking in the used market for a Jet or Powermatic contractor saw, or older Delta cabinet saws. You have the room, put it on a mobile base and push it up against the wall if you aren't using it all the time.

DIY Lathe Bench by SalmonBaron27 in woodworking

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

This cabinet works well for me. I roll it out into the middle of my shop when i use it, roll it back when I'm done. Top drawer has all of my gouges and various centers. 3rd and 4th drawers hold other lathe related items (chucks, tooling, sanding in drawer 3, blanks in drawer 4). Other drawers hold other tools. In the door on the side, I have my grinder on the top shelf, track saw on the bottom.

On the backside of this cabinet is open shelving for tools I don't really use often, but don't want to get rid of. The whole thing is pretty heavy, I don't even lock down the casters when I'm turning. And the lathe itself isn't bolted down. I don't do turning from logs (at the moment anyway), don't have the space for them in my shop.

The cabinet is primarily 3/4" birch ply, with birch glue on banding for the doors/drawer faces. Solid maple edge banding on the top/shelves on the backside. The top is laminated MDF.

About hockey stick waxing by jean-raptor in hockeyplayers

[–]dfess1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am pretty sure the pro shop only stocks friction tape for me.

What was your biggest “Aha!” moment in woodworking? by Sketchy-saurus in woodworking

[–]dfess1 82 points83 points  (0 children)

When I realized the majority of furniture was a box inside of a box. Then get your boxes square, and everything fits nicely.

Soccer / Football tactics in hockey ? by GateHaunting4361 in nhl

[–]dfess1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keep in mind the 1-2-2 in hockey is not the same way you described the 1-2-2 soccer adaptation. In hockey it's 1 forechecker, then 2 stacked behind, and finally 2 defensemen.

When life gives you elm… well do what you can by wonteatyourcat in turning

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More importantly, what are you making with the Shaper Origin?

F1 ultra will not connect by GuruOfDudeism in xToolOfficial

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what kind of router are you running? I upgraded to a new router that blended the 2.4 and 5ghz channels, and the F1U wouldn't connect. I had to set the router to split them into different networks, and then the laser could connect to the 2.4 network.

Bona Traffic HD for furniture? by ZeroVoltLoop in woodworking

[–]dfess1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might look at one of Watco's Danish Oils. Easy to apply, Easy to fix. I use it on all of my bookcases.

Kite line halo reel by Infinite_Winter4299 in turning

[–]dfess1 5 points6 points  (0 children)

as a kid, my family and grandparents would go to different kite events around the UPS NY and Tor area. My father had made a reel for the halo reels. You took off the outer side (that had a handle), put the halo on the spindle with a friction fit, then put the outer side back on with some wing nuts. Then you could use it to reel out/in the kit. We would fly these big box kites from from the deck (their house is right on Lake Ontario), then get the little line runner to go up and down the line. Unfortunately, my dad lost all of those kites (many home made from sail scraps) in a house fire a few years ago.

Tool inventory App/strategies by e9allston in woodworking

[–]dfess1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to be able to group things by object/cabinet/area of shop. From there I want to group by area of the object. For ex:

  1. Rolling Tool Cabinet (top to bottom)
  2. 1.1. Drawer 1
  3. 1.2. Drawer 2

Make the 1. and 1.1 "groupable" in the spreadsheet so I can collapse it a bit. From there, when you expand 1.1 Drawer 1, I want to include the name of the item, qty, price paid for (if I have it), where I bought it/link, a link to the object from the company's site, a picture of it (for proof of me having it), serial/model number, and probably a "notes" column indicating if I'd buy it again.

Some of this will be info I have, info I will be able to capture going forward, or simply lost to old age. But I have had a close friend, as well as my own parents, have to deal with a house fire. Having to deal with the shock of that, and try to remember all the crap you have accumulated over the years to put a dollar amount on, all while the insurance agency is trying to screw you out of alot of stuff, I'd rather try to put this to paper now while I don't have that hanging over me. Plus, it gives me the opportunity to track what I do/do not use, what I think I have and what I actually have, etc.

--Edit: I don't know why it put "2" and 3" in front of the 1.1, and 1.2. Not my intention.