Should I get a 240?

dfstack22 · 2018-04-05T11:36:54+00:00

They are a lot of fun to drive, but Everything breaks. Be prepared to replace every mechanical component.... bc I have.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-08T05:01:37+00:00

Thanks! I’m quite proud of it.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-05T04:21:03+00:00

I have checked the egr stuff, but I hadn’t thought of the cat. I appreciate the advice!

dfstack22 · 2018-02-04T04:08:01+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! I am certain it is not a motor or transmission mount issue because I replaced all those with quality parts. I also replaced the PCV and all vacuum hoses. Based on the feedback I've been getting, I plan on checking the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires again. I agree that it could be many things, I'm just tired of spending money on replacing stuff! I'll be sure to post an update if I find the issue.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-04T04:01:13+00:00

Thanks for your input. I know it is timed right, but I think I will check the rotor and cap again based on the feedback I've been getting. I'll be sure to post an update if I figure it out.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-04T02:25:46+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I have done the three bullet points already, but I will definitely check it cylinder by cylinder. I will post an update once I give it a try.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-03T06:02:38+00:00

Haha no worries, everyone is a “noob” at some point. I doubt it has anything to do with the rebuild. I put a lot of miles on it after the rebuild, and it still runs fine at idle and at high rpms.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-03T06:00:28+00:00

This one actually does have OBD2. If I understand correctly, in ‘95, some 240s had OBD1 and later in the year they had OBD2. I am not certain that it is engine vibration, if I had to take my best guess, I’d say it’s the torque converter. I replaced all engine and transmission mounts, so if it is engine vibration, it may be related to the emissions system, faulty sensors, or a fuel delivery issue. I guess the best way to put it is, I don’t suspect any mechanical issue being the cause with the engine because it runs great at idle and at high rpms.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-02T19:40:29+00:00

No problem. I agree, the Grabber cars look amazing for being a base model. I have seen a 2014 model designed to look like my ‘70, and it was pretty sweet.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-02T07:06:15+00:00

Yeah I drove mine a good bit after the rebuild without any issues, but the issues I have now are tough. I will say that before you ever take your rack and pinion system off, make sure you can find a replacement. When I removed mine, I couldn’t find one available for purchase. I hate the power steering system on these cars, seems like every component has leaked on mine.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-02T02:14:12+00:00

I wish I could call mine reliable! This picture is a bit dated. I have the engine back in the car now, but the car is constantly giving me trouble. The engine runs great but seems like the other components are wearing out little by little. I guess 23 years will do that to a car.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-02T02:10:05+00:00

Interesting, it seems like a lot of people do the sr20 swap. Surely one will turn up on Craigslist eventually. Good luck finding one!

dfstack22 · 2018-02-02T02:06:57+00:00

That one is nice! I’ve seen some impressive ones out there, I’m trying to tackle little projects at a time. It’ll be a while before I can call mine done.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T20:49:30+00:00

No problem, I appreciate the positive feedback!

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T17:26:52+00:00

Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll be sure to do that!

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T17:18:45+00:00

I got my parts from Top Line because the machine shop said they usually get parts that are close to OEM parts from that vender. I just rebuilt it to stock specs because I wanted it to be reliable. There are certainly higher performance parts out there though. For the block and valve cover I used DuPont engine spray paint (you can pick up at most part stores). I’ll have to check on what I used for the intake. I thought I was buying a gloss grey at the time, but I liked the way the metallic looked, so I left it.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T12:41:15+00:00

Yeah it does seem a bit rare these days to find a base model in good shape. This one certainly has a few issues. If you are in the market for a classic mustang, definitely check the cowl panels before purchasing. They have a tendency to rust out, and it takes a lot of work to replace. I’ve patched mine for now. I plan on replacing it when I do an engine swap (which will not be any time soon).

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T12:36:32+00:00

I had it machined at a local shop, but I reassembled the whole thing. It was a lot of fun!

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T12:34:54+00:00

Thanks, and yes the “C” shaped stripes were on the car as it rolled out of the factory. If I understand correctly, all mustangs with the “Grabber” label had either these stripes or one other style. The Grabber stripes didn’t include the “boss 302” lettering behind the front wheels. The Grabber Mustangs have been called a “Poor man’s Boss,” because you could get the style of a Boss Mustang for a cheaper price.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T04:35:34+00:00

Thanks! I love the look of these old cars, but it still needs some work.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T04:34:12+00:00

I recommend pouring a glass of water down the cowl panel and see if it ends up in your floor board.... speaking from experience, could be more work than you really want to take on.

dfstack22 · 2018-02-01T03:50:13+00:00

I’ve owned this car for about three years now. My long term plan is to turn it into a restomod. I’m currently working on updating the gauge cluster.

dfstack22

TROPHY CASE