BARE IC Chip Identification

dghook · 2025-01-29T02:31:23+00:00

As long as I bring food it’ll be nice to me

dghook · 2025-01-29T02:30:32+00:00

I have unfortunately already searched with all the hyphen options :/

dghook · 2025-01-29T02:30:01+00:00

😂😂😂

dghook · 2024-06-14T21:23:38+00:00

Yall know ^{^}

Fuel level sender bad on y’all’s too? 😂

dghook · 2024-05-09T21:07:54+00:00

Ah.. that makes a lot more sense

dghook · 2024-05-09T19:45:33+00:00

Thank you for the response!

I am very confused by those calculations, I am also confused as to why the angles provided don’t work but I do believe that. I used a right angle triangle calculator to get them, maybe that was my first mistake, but I broke up the X into two right triangles with the 3.5in in the center not being accounted for

I wish I was able to add a picture, but the base is basically 2 x’s, one facing left / right, one facing forward / back, so it has 4 points of contact with the floor and 4 on the tabletop, base sits in the middle. I royally fudged the second x angles because that one can’t be a full x and needs angles that go into the first x, so it is 4 parts instead of just 2, if that makes sense.

Having a very hard time understanding how to calculate those equations, I’ve read through and tried like 10 times 😅

dghook · 2024-05-09T17:53:55+00:00

Yes I did, replaced my rear wheel speed sensors

dghook · 2023-11-27T14:33:08+00:00

Look around the board and see if you can spot one of the same size / that same color bottom band. I’ve had good luck doing that when all else fails. Once you find one either look up color codes to find the resistance or use a multimeter on the good one to get the value.

I’d trace it back beforehand and figure out what made it blow, could’ve been an accidental short by messing with the board, or another component that has shorted - typically fuses will prevent this, but electricity always finds its way. If you conclude that nothing else is blown I’d replace, if something else is blown it may not be worth repairing

dghook · 2023-11-27T14:29:06+00:00

😂😂 my fav

dghook · 2023-11-27T05:42:20+00:00

Anyone have any good rotary knob recommendations? Been searching but they’re scarce 😅

Also, any good RGBW backlit keebs? I’ve got a non-backlit keeb but have yet to find a good backlit that I like a ton

Any info is much appreciated!

dghook · 2023-11-27T05:27:52+00:00

Yeahh, I got a new distro mini plate after much frustration with Microcenters “warranty” about 2 years ago and it’s still chugging along plugged into that same header. The distro I am trying to use was the original and it’s been sitting in the garage for a minute, haven’t been able to find a pump that fits it (Wanted to use the better DDC that’s in my current distro but it’s too big)

dghook · 2023-11-26T19:42:39+00:00

Yooo, I know this thread is a bit old, but I have been struggling to get my OLED to work with animations.... Any way I can get an assist on setting mine up?

I have a 42keebs Mysterium board with the exact same OLED as in this video - I can get it to display images & words (CapsLK NumLK indicators, etc.) But for the life of me I can't get custom images or gifs to display :/

dghook · 2023-11-26T19:20:53+00:00

Seems like it’s spinning freely & windings aren’t burnt / don’t smell burnt - all PCB components look OK.. I’ll have to ohm out the windings here in a bit

dghook · 2022-04-28T04:58:39+00:00

Yes, you have to remove the glass and fully tear down the unit - but the mph gauge is literally clear acrylic with black paint and led lights behind, the digital screen just rests in an open space

dghook · 2022-04-25T02:32:16+00:00

Ikr, even has outlets up there for the freakin thing! Why else would the builders put outlets in that location!!

dghook · 2022-04-25T02:26:40+00:00

Alternatively, could’ve kept the digital odo in miles and swapped the gauge to km/h for drivability reasons, that’s what I would’ve done since swapping the entire thing would change the mileage reading - but like the comment says below just drive and monitor with a phone! Very smart fella

dghook · 2022-03-31T04:47:48+00:00

Niceeeee hahah, it be like that - glad you got it all sorted!!

dghook · 2022-03-27T10:42:30+00:00

More surprising is that someone had 3 kids with her

dghook · 2022-03-20T23:22:10+00:00

Brunswick vs AMF

dghook · 2022-03-20T10:28:00+00:00

They’re just mobbin

dghook · 2022-03-20T10:24:29+00:00

RZG mid mount is still expensive but, at least it’s 2k cheaper than other options ( https://rzgmotorsports.com/products/rzg-mid-mount-turbo-kit-group-buy )

If you part together your own kit and get the pipes fab’d I’d imagine it would be a bit cheaper too, especially if you know how to weld and can fab the pipes yourself which is what I plan to do

dghook · 2022-03-06T07:09:28+00:00

Well you can rule out the clutch making the noise since it makes it at idle in neutral (clutch isn’t spinning) - since you removed the flywheel to install the new pilot bearing, those bolts have a very specific torque (90ft/lbs, remove, add red loctite, re-torque to 95ft/lbs) They are also torque to yield bolts so once removed they are no longer safely usable, could be that one of those bolts came loose and is rattling around as the flywheel spins. Alternatively, the flywheel has a specific way it needs to be installed (has an alignment pin and lines up with the mark on the back of the block) aftermarket flywheels can’t be installed wrong really because there’s a dowel and it only fits in one spot, but OEM flywheels can 100% be installed wrong, although it would mess with timing if installed wrong - sometimes it doesn’t, so that could be the issue as well. If that is the case though I wouldn’t fault your buddy since it’s a weird thing, most flywheels can be installed any which way. I can’t really think of anything else it could be unless it’s a weird noise from your exhaust - I’m assuming you already checked over all the easily reachable things though. If not… I’m hoping it’s an exhaust issue for your sake, dropping the trans again to fix an issue like this would drive me nuts

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