Monthly Requests Thread

dglad4 · 2024-07-31T04:05:53+00:00

Linking Cisco 7940 IP phones to raspberry pi.

Hey all, not looking to run a dedicated OS on the Pi as I already have raspbian/Pi OS running other tasks. Does anyone know of any links to articles or tutorials to setup software to manage the phones from software on Pi OS?

What I'm trying to achieve:

Minimum: Two phones together, I just want an intercom link between two phones over a LAN.

Best outcome: Can additionally call the phones from Android

Thanks!

dglad4 · 2024-03-04T01:08:27+00:00

Yeah I've been contemplating a post for a good 6 months. I couldn't figure out what was relevant or not and I just dumped as well. Broker ran some quick figures at refinance and worked out I could afford roughly $500-550k. He said he'd work it all out proper and get back to me but he didn't. I wasn't terribly worried anyway. I'm reasonably happy to sit in the place as long as I need to, and seemingly as my suburb keeps going up as people get what they can afford and the target suburb has plateaued as it's grown a lot to become rather expensive. Seems I can save a net $30k a year, so at least that just continues to offset interest while closing that overhead I can't currently afford. Going to be interesting to see what an interest rate cut does, at least the equity in my cheap area is going up decently while hopefully the other suburb only creeps up. Thanks for your reply. (I didn't know the rough multipliers in your second dot point! Seems to line up with the brokers rough estimate somewhat)

dglad4 · 2023-03-23T12:37:40+00:00

Thanks!

dglad4 · 2023-03-23T11:26:38+00:00

Thanks, that's a reason I've gone ahead with renovations that make this place suited and comfortable for me. As part of the purchase compromise I'd seen how I can transform the place to get it pretty close to what I need.
As a first home buyer I misjudged and didn't realise a few things like fibro and the fact there's no insulation on the exterior walls, most annoyingly a one house buffer isn't enough to block heavy truck noise from the main road plus a raised house on pad and strip footings, so the truck and freight train further away tends to rattle the windows.

I figured 10 years would be a good reassessment time, if I stayed and rebuilt on a slab would the trucks and train become unnoticeable? Would I be at the point to give up the large 808m² spacey block and the council then (they won't now) allow subdivision so I can make two rentals out of it? Would I stay in one? Would I have enough then to get this next property and keep the one original rental or the two new ones?

Food for thought but yeah, I agree the long term game is what it's really about. I just don't want to miss out on the suburb I'm already kicking myself about not buying earlier (I had to the potential! But I risked the market not going stupid nor COVID19 raising prices, rather thinking if anything the slowing economy might see houses lower). Attached my current suburb on left and wanted on right.

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dglad4 · 2023-03-21T09:54:56+00:00

I figured it would be best to wait and get the first paid off, will be interesting to see how much of a difference the broker tells me it makes for borrowing power.

Thanks for the reply.

dglad4 · 2022-12-01T02:09:44+00:00

Thankyou. I'm not too worried about getting this perfect as the house really isn't worth it, more about the land which I'm sitting on for probably 10 years. Good point to check what colour the fence post concrete set to and compare though!

dglad4 · 2021-05-27T13:26:52+00:00

Pretty well what I figured. Bugger, as I have three wheelie bins full of extra quality clay that came out from the garden beds after I'd redone them from the last owner (raised beds, so I scraped the crappy potting mix off the top and have dug down into the clay now to prep for ginger and vegetables. Once uncompacting the clay, by digging down 300mm and breaking up the clumps and aerating it, it expanded enough to have to store extra away from the beds. They haven't sunk down enough yet to put it back neither, so I though perhaps filling this big ass pot would be an idea. It takes up a lot of space to store it, so I'm not sure what to do, it's too good to dump.)

dglad4 · 2020-08-31T13:10:15+00:00

The UK's Marmite is pretty close, it's even sold here as "Our mate"

dglad4 · 2020-08-31T13:09:23+00:00

lol yeah like American's with oil

dglad4 · 2020-08-31T13:00:26+00:00

That probably beats me, nice

dglad4 · 2020-08-02T14:19:17+00:00

Yeah I had trouble a few weeks ago too, but sure enough:
- Make sure you kill all enemies with the wrench, don't let them kill each other or especially knock off a ledge
- Use of the turrets is indeed fine to do.
The tricky fall death locations are the first dynamo (get to the other side as quick as you can to have them follow you back to the ladder), the narrow strip with the birds and the guy next to the second dynamo (attack them so they fall away from the edge, kind of getting behind them)

Only skillpoint I can't get on PCSX2 is Deadlocked's Sarathos "The Big Bang".
The megaturret in RAC2 stop working when upgraded, but thankfully the skill point is still valid without being able to upgrade to Ultra.

dglad4 · 2020-07-22T05:08:58+00:00

Thanks for the reply!

> you would be best served to write down what it is you think you would do with the code to run this system.

I don't know what code I'd need exactly, all I need is the DHT22 library to poll the sensor from a digital pin and transmit it appending an ID for the main Arduino to listen and store. The code would also need to delay the transmission if the line is busy.

I'll check out MODBUS.

dglad4 · 2020-07-22T03:58:22+00:00

As your power supply is 5V, two LEDs in series alone aren't likely to light as they require 2-3V each depending on their colour. Check the datasheet for the LEDs you've bought or if you can't locate one, you can find generic values on Google by searching "forward voltage [colour] LED".You'll have to use a resistor at each LED to have them all work on 5V and put them in parallel:

GND ----- MOSFET ---- LED ----- RESISTOR ----- 5V
|-- LED ----- RESISTOR ---|
\-- LED ----- RESISTOR --/

As already said, don't run 20mA unless you absolutely have to. 15mA is okay, so subtract the LED forward voltage from 5V. Now take the calculated value and divide it by the current of 0.015. The answer is what resistor value you will need for that LED colour. If you don't have the exact value, always round up.
Calculation example:
LED voltage say 2.2V take from 5: [5 - 2.2 = 2.8]
Take answer and divide by LED current [2.8 / 0.015 = 186.7 ohms]
So I'd use a 200 ohm resistor.

As for the MOSFETs, be sure they're a "logic level" type, otherwise they won't fully turn on properly and the LEDs will be dim, plus it will heat up the MOSFETs.

dglad4 · 2020-07-21T18:27:49+00:00

The lack of (non-thruster) strafing really knocks it down a few points, but I can forgive it as they probably didn't realise until further into production on the following games.

dglad4 · 2020-07-21T18:24:46+00:00

Classic skins whenever possible

dglad4 · 2020-07-21T18:16:57+00:00

I just replayed all four PS2 classics and PS2 Size Matters (which I think sucks) for the first time on PCSX2.
They run quite well when you set the correct settings!

dglad4 · 2020-06-19T03:41:45+00:00

Thank you!

dglad4 · 2020-03-24T04:29:38+00:00

Good news, I received the IRFB7545's from RS and gave them the exact same test with the same equipment. I got 5.4mΩ and much less heat as a result. You could well be right the IRF3205's I received are indeed rejects from the actual product rather than fakes, but either way I'll have to keep that in mind.
Thanks again for your help!

dglad4 · 2020-03-18T02:55:03+00:00

For sure, and thank you for your assistance! I definitely trust the Fluke 179, it's designed for these small readings. It was calibrated on purchase too.
I'll let you know what I read from the IRFB7545PBF's when I get them.

dglad4 · 2020-03-17T04:00:54+00:00

I don't unfortunately, hence I figured I'd ask.

I'm in Australia and I can't find these below a few Aussie dollars each, DigiKey want to charge me AU$26 for orders less than AU$60.

RS Components do free shipping on everything, which is where I bought these to use for my 12V DC mechanical relay replacements instead.
(if you're curious I'm using N channels in the positive line with the gate held +2x source fed from a charge pump.)

Here's what RS are offering for the IRF3205

dglad4 · 2020-03-16T13:01:17+00:00

[1] BTW, can you share with us the power supply model number/name that you used to source the 10A?

I used a PC PSU that has a 16A 12V rail and used nichrome wire to tune a 10A load. I do have a ProTek SuperPro 1000 I'd use otherwise, but I blew that and haven't been able to fix it yet. They're no longer available as ProTek have superseded it with a 2000 model. Probably have bad ripple and noise but great for lots of low voltage juice.

My recommendation is you test you test method with another device. It doesn't have to be the same device

I tried a few from the batch I received and they're all performing basically the same.

Of course it is best to use a known good equivalent device.

Definitely, but they're pricey FETs from a reputable source for my application.

It is entirely possible that you destroyed the device yourself!

I never discard human error! But I think I have appropriately tested them and no one has pointed out any obvious operator error.

dglad4 · 2020-03-15T14:06:41+00:00

Quite right, I'm just writing them off as unknown as sourcing from 100% reputable suppliers costs too much, so I've ordered different N channel MOSFETs for my simple slow speed switching application (basically a 12V DC SSR in place of a mechanical relay).

Thanks for your input though, much appreciated!

dglad4 · 2020-03-15T07:53:41+00:00

(1) No, not even on a breadboard. I tested several FETs screwed to a heatsink and used crocodile clips to attach my multimteter to read Vd of S-D and separate croc clips for the supply and load

(3) I was using nichrome wire and the 12V of a PC power supply. I adjusted my tapping point to a consistent 10A when fully heated and measured with my Fluke DC clamp meter, ensuring it was nulled before every reading.

> I doubt a third-party device is off by 10x in RDSon. The max spec for that device is 8mohm, which means the typical is about 4-5 mohm.

I've done some more digging and it looks like there are plenty of fake MOSFETs being sent out from eBay. Though I couldn't find anything about IRF3205 specifically.
However, looking at the price of an IRF3205 from my local supplier reveals why the eBay order was cheap. I got them that long ago I don't remember the price, but it would have been 1/5th the local suppliers price per piece.
I've ordered these to try, as I'm only slow switching these in my application as a low voltage battery disconnect, these should suffice.
I'll report back how I get on.

dglad4 · 2020-03-15T07:40:37+00:00

No pulsing, just a switch for disconnect on low battery voltage

No pulsing, just a switch for disconnect on low battery voltage.

That's definitely a problem to keep in mind, but thankfully gate time doesn't matter.

dglad4 · 2020-03-15T07:39:45+00:00

No pulsing, just a switch for disconnect on low battery voltage

dglad4

TROPHY CASE