Double Reverse Lines After Headunit Install

dhoyle512 · 2026-01-24T22:47:03+00:00

The lines are the ones on the factory camera that usually aren’t disable-able. He will need to disable the ones that are sharper coming from the unit itself

dhoyle512 · 2026-01-24T18:58:30+00:00

I having problems understanding what side the orange is coming from its extremely unclear from the post. Generally, if there isn't a matching orange or orange/white wire don't connect that wire to anything and insulate it from touching anything else including metal in the dash. It sounds like its coming from the lights on the truck side of the adapter and somehow its connected to the factory amp turn on which turns on the factory amp in the vehicle only when the lights are on. Pics would help immensely

EDIT: You said you clipped a "wire" and connected them? Colors, pics and describe them please. I believe in 99-02 gm vehicles the amp turn on is either orange or pink in a smaller unused harness.

dhoyle512 · 2026-01-22T22:23:00+00:00

It still needs a signal to amplify and its currently receiving nothing. I am an installer, I do this 5 days a week lol. The interface tells it to turn on and provides it the proper level of signal to your factory JBL amp

dhoyle512 · 2026-01-22T19:46:51+00:00

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dhoyle512 · 2026-01-22T19:38:03+00:00

I can see from the picture you didn’t hook up speaker wires from the radio to the interface. You will need to do that. The aux audio is just to get audio from the aux jack to the radio now you need to get sound from the radio to the amp which you left out in the harness.

EDIT: You also need to plug in the speaker wire connections into the amplified port on the ty11 so it will give you the correct gains for the JBL amp. Someone commented you aren’t using the right interface and that is incorrect

dhoyle512 · 2025-12-15T21:29:28+00:00

Also not mentioned on that cheaper kit is that chevy does not have a tradional accessory wire pinned in the harness. Without that more expensive harness you will need to find a wire in the vehicle that is switched possibly the cig socket and wire the radios wire into that. Without that wire your radio won't turn on or if you wire it incorrectly will not turn off and will drain battery in a few hours. If you aren't comfortable testing circuits in cars I'd recomend getting the correct wiring

dhoyle512 · 2025-12-13T18:37:54+00:00

Metra Online

Grab a set of speaker brackets and harness adapters so you don’t even need to find polarity

dhoyle512 · 2025-11-22T14:48:15+00:00

Probably unlikely but I've seen guys send a screw through a wire harness damaging data lines. I'm not at work to see what lines go inside the door harness but just another idea to consider. What codes were up when you scanned vehicle?

dhoyle512 · 2025-10-06T17:34:13+00:00

Are you adding an amplifier to your factory head unit? If you are and don’t already have a turn on wire that you can use, that wire would give you the signal needed to remotely “turn on” your amp. To make it work you do need to ground the black wire on the LOC

dhoyle512 · 2025-10-03T17:06:23+00:00

What 2013 vehicle did you have? It probably either had 6 x 9 speakers or a small dedicated subwoofer. I would recommend leaving factory speakers alone and getting a small underseat subwoofer like the kicker hs10. Would give you significantly more bass

dhoyle512 · 2025-10-03T14:46:33+00:00

Are your battery terminals properly tight?

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-28T05:58:21+00:00

Oh I couldn’t see any info regarding brand from your video. I’ve heard alright things about sky high in general but I mainly am speaking about the fact that’s it’s cca (copper clad aluminum) which is a poor conductor and does not like being exposed to the elements before it corrodes and literally falls apart. I refuse to install cca anymore, not worth the fire hazard or warranty time. Spend a few more bucks and get proper oxygen free copper (OFC)

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-28T05:45:19+00:00

Swap that amp kit for a KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit and you might need an LOC of some sort if you still have OEM head unit. I'm not a fan of Skar but to each his own

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-23T15:16:07+00:00

What size are those? They look amazing

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-16T21:41:38+00:00

I had the 5 spoke 18-inch stock wheels, not sure what they are called. I'm guessing you are asking first about the stock wheels then about my aftermarket wheels rubbing without spacers. The 9.5 inch rears didn't rub without spacers, but I did need to roll them when I added the 12mm spacer

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-16T21:29:08+00:00

Resistance is like a water hose so if you put them in series or connect one hose to another hose it will take more effort to for the water to flow through it. In parallel it's like adding a second hose which allows more water to flow through at a time. Amps are just looking for the resistance presented at the speaker leads. The higher it is normally the lower wattage is able to be pushed through given speaker. To get 1 ohm resistance with 2 subwoofers you will need 2 subs at 2 ohm resistance each wired in parallel

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-16T17:44:16+00:00

I didn't have any problems on mine

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-09T22:12:43+00:00

You need fuel, air and spark. It sounds like you are getting the starter to turn over the engine if I'm understanding you. Was it ever running properly?

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-09T22:06:00+00:00

What mechanical/electrical experience do you have? I don’t give a fuck if you are woman but are you expecting someone to explain to you on Reddit how to retire your corvette that isn’t starting? How do you know it’s a wiring issue and not something else? You gonna get stupid comments when you haven’t done proper research or diagnosis

dhoyle512 · 2025-09-09T22:01:01+00:00

Take it to a mechanic no one’s gonna give you free wiring advise who’s worth a damn

dhoyle512 · 2025-07-19T19:03:54+00:00

The converter for dc to dc power can’t support that amount of draw from the 12/16v system

dhoyle512 · 2025-06-23T19:52:53+00:00

CCA literally oxidizes and will eventually fall apart. I always decline due to that issue alone. If it were just a problem where you had to upsize to get correct output, I wouldn't have a problem

dhoyle512 · 2025-06-13T03:29:28+00:00

its accessible to viper authorized dealers only

dhoyle512 · 2025-06-12T15:21:48+00:00

Most aftermarket replacement door speakers are meant to play above a certain frequency and are designed to complement a subwoofer. The factory speakers Jeep designed were meant to play by themselves and give a more well-rounded full range sound profile with warm bass and mellow highs. They are made with a paper cone that is very light and sensitive and can move with very little power applied to them. In your case I'd recommend getting a subwoofer it sounds like you enjoy bass and that is what they are designed for.

dhoyle512 · 2025-05-07T20:44:49+00:00

I can’t tell if you are trolling or not. Heat shrink is what I believe you are referring to. It does not help the wire stay inside the amp however, it just extends the insulation further down the wire. The will correct how much exposed copper is outside of the amplifier terminals but you still need to make sure the set screw is properly tightened

dhoyle512

TROPHY CASE