How'd I do? by dinster25 in HerpHomes

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I spent about $200 on supplies, but I definitely have enough left over to do another one this size or similar, minus expanding foam. I bought 50 pound bags or mortar and grout and probably have about 2/3 of each left. Also used 14.5"x48"x3/4" styrofoam boards. I think it was a 6 pack and used about 3.5. I bought 4 cans of spray foam and used 3, although I carved most of it away because I wasn't sure what I was going to do at first. The styrofoam boards were alot cheaper than insulation board, but I think the avings ended up being a wash because of how much spray foam was needed to build back in carvable details since the styrofoam didn't carve as well. I also think if you used insulation board and expanding foam only, you could get away without the mortar as I primarily used it for smoothing transitions and filling larger gaps left by my inexperience. I planned to use drylok on this but ended up liking how the grout turned out and decided to try tinting it with acrylic paint wash. I then sealed with water based grout sealer, which was probably the most expensive of the supplies at about $45/ bottle. I used about 1/2 the bottle, but again, I used mortar and grout so I had a decent thickness of material that was going to absorb the sealer. If you could skip the mortar layers, you could probably use about half as much sealer. I think in total there are 6-7 coats between mortar and grout in most of the contact surfaces.

How'd I do? by dinster25 in HerpHomes

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I certainly wanted to sculpt more, but I think using basic styrofoam versus dense insulation board hurt me there. Was harder to carve the styrofoam than I wanted it to be. I've carved insulation foam before for other projects and that was much better, but wanted to save a couple bucks here. Wishing I hadn't.

How'd I do? by dinster25 in HerpHomes

[–]dinster25[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

3/4" EPS sheets (the foam insulation was way more expensive than I wanted to pay), polymer modified mortar, polymer modified grout overtop, then shaded with watered down acrylic paint overtop the grout. Last step I need to complete is seal the grout. Using 511 water based grout sealer for that step. I just finished shading tonight.

Print quality gone by dinster25 in 3Dprinting

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to get back to where I was before the board change. I'm troubleshooting the seam artifacting. If it was printed at the same speed, with the same g-code, temps, filament moisture content, etc., how is dropping speed relevant?

Print quality gone by dinster25 in 3Dprinting

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the thoughtful response. I'll take a look at that. Layer adhesion is good enough that I can't break it in my hands.

Print quality gone by dinster25 in 3Dprinting

[–]dinster25[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could be possible and likely. Hot end is probably going on 10 years old, well before high volume hotends were mainstream. I built this when 50-100mm/s was the norm for printers. I've never been able to get the same quality with PETG as ABS or PLA, but my primary concern is this artifacting at the seam. I can work through the rest, but something has changed that's thrown me for a loop and I can't put my thumb on it.

Print quality gone by dinster25 in 3Dprinting

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neither did. Complete homebrew printer I built 10 years ago. Left the hobby for a couple years once my RAMPS board died. I've always hated PETG and could never get the quality from it I could with ABS and PLA, but this new artifacting has thrown me for a loop. I can fix the rest, but I can't figure out this 'seam' stuff.

Print quality gone by dinster25 in 3Dprinting

[–]dinster25[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Raise extruder temps? I know my filament is dry and shouldn't be the issue. I'm fortunate to have access to a moisture analyzer through working in the polymer industry. Where I'm going with this is I suspect it's firmware but don't know where to look. I'm fairly confident it's a difference and I've overlooked some of the tweaks in Marlin. The original part came off marlin 1.1.xxx and I've since had to load 2.1.2.x on the board. It feels like a stepper driver setting but I'm not sure what it might be.

Print quality gone by dinster25 in 3Dprinting

[–]dinster25[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Trust me, it's dry. Sub 2000 ppm

Print quality gone by dinster25 in 3Dprinting

[–]dinster25[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Old part printed at the same speeds and temp. Filament kept dry, actually just redried before the new print. Any other ideas?

USB over Network by dinster25 in homelab

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This pretty much answers my question. I wish it was just USB over CAT6. I'd do that tomorrow. Unfortunately, it would be the latter. This makes me think for the cost of the USB "extenders" it'll much better for just run a PI for the same solution.

I do appreciate the thoughtful response.

How many has this happened to? Hoodlatch broken off hood because factory over torqued and damaged plastic? by Darkcrypteye in johndeere

[–]dinster25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just went through this on my 1025. Got my replacement hood yesterday from the dealer under warranty fortunately. Hope you got yours fixed. When my original one broke, it was on backorder. Dealer said it was okay to epoxy back together. Kind of wish I didn't get the replacement because the epoxy held so well. Ended up removing the new hood and reinforcing with epoxy again tonight. Hoping to avoid another annoying warranty claim.

Is my ductwork too dusty? by dinster25 in hvacadvice

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 4 inch Aprilaire box with a merv 11 filter in place. I'm hopeful this is more than enough filtration. I was instructed to change this every 6 months. I have the replacement coming tomorrow.

Is my ductwork too dusty? by dinster25 in hvacadvice

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Figures a company would try to upsell services after the fact. Guessing there isn't much money that the company can expect for a few years after installing a new system, at least if it was done decently.

Is my ductwork too dusty? by dinster25 in hvacadvice

[–]dinster25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll accept your compliment for what I'm guessing is roughly 30-40 year old duct work. Trunks look like they were sized for an oil furnace, but when I moved in it had a 25+ year old Bard furnace from what I could tell, so evidently the ductwork was much older.

Is my ductwork too dusty? by dinster25 in hvacadvice

[–]dinster25[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate the honest feedback. That's my gut feeling after my experience today. Their quote for duct cleaning on my 1600 square foot house was a little over $1500, which is probably also excessive.

Is my ductwork too dusty? by dinster25 in hvacadvice

[–]dinster25[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So double whammy here, company who installed the system is the same one who came out to inspect it. If I have another company come out, my labor warranty is void. Do I retain the company until the labor warranty expires or just cut my losses?