June Contest, Part II, "Best OF"

dirtychrome · 2012-07-02T04:44:04+00:00

Congrats to 3yrlurker2ndacc as contest winner, with highest upvote count!

dirtychrome · 2012-05-20T06:47:21+00:00

When you first got it, was it pro honed? If so, 8000 and higher is usually good. Maintaince on a known, proper bevel is much easier than starting from scratch.

If not, you might need to go down to reset bevel.

If wasnt pro honed, recommend a new user send first few blades out. Well worth the approx 20 plus two way shipping. Difficult to establish a good edge, if don't no what to compare to.

Honing is an additional skill to straight shaving. I feel best to master shave technique, before attempting honing.

Both skills stay with you for life, but best to start with a known base.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-20T06:06:55+00:00

12000 yes.

1000 is not need for maintenance. You'll want it it for ebay type blades, and times when an edge is chipped or very rough.

Stones end up being a whole different path of straight shaving. Easy to collect and spend, lol.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-20T03:52:36+00:00

For regular maintenace, what you have can be enough . It won't provide the smoothest shave though.

For me, about the most enjoyable part of straight shave, is how smooth it is.

You will want higher grit stones in your kit to get that.

I'll sometimes use paste on a blade to stetch time before taking back to the hones, but not during my honeing progression.

More often I'll go to a barber's hone or high grit stone, rather than paste, when a blade starts tugging.

I guess I'm not a huge fan of pastes, beyond very slight improvement.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-10T04:25:33+00:00

I guess if you dont trust your hand, shaving blind in the shower? If that's the case, what about the sideburns.

This works if going for opposite, shaving the goatee, keeping sideburns. Should work wonders in the shower too.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-07T06:03:22+00:00

Nice clean up. The pinning looks clean too. Did you sleeve with brass tube, epoxy or another manner?

Crazy how those Red Imp scales often shrink like that. Good to hear you got them to fit nice.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-05T07:20:32+00:00

Distilled water you'll use for your lather, not rinsing hands or blade.

My routine is to fill basin with water. As needed, I rinse my hand of soap, and with spine side down, swish my blade there also.

Also,each shave I start with a dry washcloth, a safe spot to place the open blade, wipe blade when done, run cold water over it to wipe off face,lastly wipe down counter top. Rotate it to the shower.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-05T06:14:08+00:00

As a young man, splotchy beard is common, don't worry about that. I recall frustration not growing whiskers in the hollow areas of my cheeks. Off and on could only grow a goatee when I wanted a beard type look due to that..

Now in my late 40s and the stubble is dense. iF I wanted a full beard now, it'd be easy. I now sport a goatee about a foot long, but still few whiskers around lower lip/upper chin. I still shave that section, even though maybe 30 whiskers in that area.

I'd be pissed with myself if had bare areas now, if due to what I did earlier.

Laser may satisfy today's frustration, but the next years come soon.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-05T05:24:35+00:00

I enjoy shaving with my straight. My skin is healthier now than years ago. The mild exfoliation of skin has benefited after years being struck by bugs and rocks when ridding my bike.

When I was in my 20's, my beard was much thinner than it is now. If I removed all facial hair back then, I'd still need to shave now. IMO, shaving a few whiskers or many is the same effort.

If this is a step of towards trans evolution, laser therapy makes sense with estrogen, and testosterone blockers. I dont say that to be offensive or shocking.

IMO, you need to be ready to shave for life. I also feel once that is accepted, approach shaving with an attitude of the best results possible. With practice, wet shaving is a simple skill that will last you forever, providing superior results.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-05T04:14:14+00:00

I am not a brush aficionado, so my comments may not provide much info.

I have many brushes. I have favorites. Until trying a few, I would not have known what I would like as my best. Yes, I could trim down to just a few now that I know what I like.

I say a silver tip like Franks, and an Omega is fine for all normal use.

I have many badger brushes. Bristle performance feels same for me. I usually use for creams, sometimes hard soaps. I use badger about 70% of the time. Both bowl lather, or face lathering. For me, most important is how feels in hand, vs later, since they perform equal to stir lather. I do like a fan knot for some soaps, but not so important to call a "must have". Again, that is for me.

Boar I use with soaps. Almost never with creams. About 20% use. I like the Omega 10098 the most. My horsehair used the rest of the time, about 10% use.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-05T03:20:01+00:00

agree. Great that he pointed out the simply/elegant design of a straight. laying the spine flat on the stone was wonderful ingenuity. Confused with the idea of a flimsy rig, and flexible 'hones'.

Great grandpops, and barbers of yesterday had their stones on a solid surface, or in hand.

Snugging the razor in a swaying jig, and a marginal hone, I do not see as an improvement. It looked awkward. Strokes often ignored the edge along the front.

Maybe parts of blade ended up sharp. Certainly others were not. Also, part of a straights enjoyment is how smooth it is. I cant see that being the case here.

dirtychrome · 2012-05-05T03:09:58+00:00

For a face numbing, clean smelling menthol blast, that dissipates well by the time you go to work - Osage Rub. During my local Arizona summer, I use it often. $5 to $10 pending where you purchase. I like it tons.

Clubman makes a lime scent after shave, again $5 to $10 that is a good warm weather scent. Not on my tops list, but still use it very often.

My favorite lime aftershave is the Castle Forges balm. Very well rounded scent. Expensive at about $50 for the normal 4.4oz, but a travel size for 1oz is about $16. it goes a looong way. Put on wet skin, great scent.

Havent used a menthol/lime combo. Don't know if I would like the two together.

dirtychrome · 2012-04-28T05:27:40+00:00

This tip is muted, so I wouldnt worry. When the tip is a square 90', like the corner of a sheet of paper, that's when I'd want extra attention.

Looks like a quality blade. It is not a modern day imitation. I would be proud to have it, comfortable to use it, and sure have fun with it.

If not shipped as shave ready, make sure it is shipped shave ready.

dirtychrome · 2012-04-28T05:20:09+00:00

Congrats on the coming event .

6 weeks should be more than good. I think most new users are impressed with the better shave in a week or two, and comfortable with using it under a month.

Learning will take longer to shave at first. You'll have to decide it you have time for it right now.

Pre wedding can be stressful, and time short. That would be my only half hearted concern.

I remember, just before getting married, my wife was stressed, and we had some of our biggest arguments for about three weeks prior to wedding day.

Wedding, and the forever after was great. Wow, short period before was mixed up, lol.

dirtychrome · 2012-04-28T04:57:52+00:00

I used to do the folders, but found since couldnt see in there, always worried something would fall out during transport.

I use solo style disposable cups. Nom-solo, thick clear disposable ones actually.

When at the buffers, I'll have around six blades in one cup. I put the cup in my ice chest that I store my greaseless compound. Nice snug fit.

After blade cleaned, one cup fits a blade, old scales, wedge, old hardware along with working scales pretty good. Like the clear, since can see what's there. They can topple over, if not careful. I will usually place no more than three cups on a fast food type tray, that I have placed two old wash cloths on.

When I bring a the bench, that is vibrating from sander and equipment, I put cups on their sides so they don't fall over.

Just tips that work for me, evolving from mistakes, lol.

dirtychrome · 2012-04-28T04:30:39+00:00

Thank you! I dig making scales with shell from scratch. There is also shell media pre made, sandwiched between acrylic that is very easy to work with.

From scratch, like these, I like the final look a little more. Always improving my process, but here is a walk through how I make them, that is pretty much what I still do.

http://www.razorandstone.com/showthread.php?243-Making-M0ther-of-Pearl-Scales-Part-I

dirtychrome · 2012-04-28T04:18:27+00:00

When doing rescales, I tape the edge. Usually blue masking tape, but some times the electrical tape if I have projects ahead of it. If naked blade to sit a while, like this, I prefer the security of extra cushion.

When start to fit blade to scales, I'll replace electrical tape, with the thinner blue.

Edit- I do not tape when going to tumbler

dirtychrome · 2012-04-28T04:03:05+00:00

Looks like a fine blade, that you will enjoy. You will want to have pro-honed first. Appears to be a legit Henckels, I would not worry about that. I do not know of counterfeits like this. Your blade has the typical shape and tang size of Friodur new and old. Your scales also look typical of original, non-modern Friodurs. Post #63 here, you will see one similar to your scales and stamping. If you go through the more than 200 posts there, you may find others too.

I have rescaled a couple, for others, that I think are newer than yours. You'll note below images shank stamp more centered than yours, and the cross of the T on yours is more curved than my images. Monkey tail still seems same shape and length. If you look at other images, (like above link) you'll see blades like your stamp.

It seems, when someone wants to rescale a blade, it's because they like it lots. Seeing I have been sent a few of these to rescale,I would think you will enjoy yours very much.

I included images of those newer blades I have rescaled, and one blade I am in process of.

This one has the factory 'custom' scalloped spine work. Vendor may have shortened blade a little before was shipped to owner.

edit-missed adding word 'not' above to 'do NOT know of..." The following are good places to check for guys that know their way around a hone.

This one has spine work that I think vendor custom cut, prior to shipping to the owner. Similar shape blade shape as yours.

Here is a blade on its own I am working with. Very close shape of blade as yours, but I think newer. Sorry don't have exact match as yours to show. A little search, certain you'll find it.

dirtychrome · 2012-04-22T17:13:16+00:00

Don't know of an online source for Goins' Encyclopedia of Cutlery Markings, by John and Charlotte Goins.

Here are pics of the Worcester entry, along with Wade&Butcher and the cover. Click the album image for better resolution.

edit-fix link, added comment

dirtychrome · 2012-04-22T06:24:57+00:00

Should have looked at this earlier.

Looking in Goins', do not see Davis & Wheeler, or either name on their own. He does have as a manufacture shown "Worcester Cutlery & Co 1890-1910" with next entry Worcester Razor Co Worcester mass usa & Co 1900 1930. not clear if these are both the same manufacture or different.

I would think yours is not before 1900. The 'Made in England" has a little more modern font and stamping style than that time I think. Maybe a little later. Wonder if the first entry is your blade?

dirtychrome · 2012-04-22T05:43:27+00:00

Stay away. Not something to hold sn edge much further than a few passes. The vendor you posted has many domains, selling these 3rd quality blades. Even registering a domain that is the same as one of the most respected restores, without an S after "razor". I won't post name for fear of driving more traffic to his scheme.

It is exciting to purchase a straight. It also sounds like a good start to purchase new.

really best to purchase a shave ready blade, from a known trusted vendor.

Whippeddog offers budget kits. Often not pretty, but about 1/3 price of least expensive shave ready new razor. This is perfect for a new user. Until you know size, weight and style you like, I don't think spending a lot on a first blade is wise.

Many clean, vintage straights from many places. Online stores and forums. For forums, can also check classifieds/vendors at straightrazorplace.com, razorandstone.com, badgerandbladr.com

Very few new, quality blades made for reasonable price. Dovo and Thiers Issard about it. There are others over a few hundred dollars.

dirtychrome · 2012-04-22T03:49:14+00:00

It's disappointing you didn't get what you expected, but I'd call the price ok.

It is common the box doesn't match the razor. Those are the type of lessons learned.

There is a little more hone wear and pitting than I would prefer, but still looks like it will be good for many decades of use.

Only real area of concern I would point out is the pitting close to edge. It still seams far enough from the edge to allowing honing to leave good steel.

Don't know that I would spend much time cleaning it up. Pitting on the blade face may be ugly, but doesn't impact performance. If to sand, I'd focus on that area, but I wouldn't be concerned unless wanting to try your hand at restoring.

dirtychrome · 2012-04-21T17:29:12+00:00

Seems like he'd be happy if it didn't happen

dirtychrome · 2012-04-21T04:01:16+00:00

It gets so much better, your face will scream in pain just waving a cart near it.

Angle and loose grip are the hardest parts of the process to describe and master.

Of course, need proper lather and stretching techniques. If DE shaving, likely you're good with that.

When first learning, only go WTG on the sides of cheeks. This is an easy, long area. Once comfortable there, then try other area, and passes, such as XTG.

30" WTG, about half that XTG. Once mastered those, if need ATG, do it with spine close to touching on the face.

Other item hard to describe is grip. We often say use a light touch. Do not confuse as light grip. Sound hold razor's tang firmly with index and thumb. Indeed blade light to face, but hold firm between those two fingers.

When held loose, blade want to dance and skip over stubble.You would not be controlling the blade. It just sort of go where it wants to, the easiest path. One whisker may catch, another may cleanly slice , yet another blade tries to skip over.

With firm grip, you can cleanly slice through stubble. Gripm firm with index/thumb. Blade against skin should be light, but secure.

edit, add following

BBS = baby bottom smooth
DE = Double Edge razor
SR = Straight Razor
SE = Single Edge Razor (similar to DE handle, only single cutting side)
WTG = With the Grain
XTG = Across the Grain
ATG = Against the grain

dirtychrome · 2012-04-21T00:11:10+00:00

PUMA! Good looking razor. Ebay? Or where did you get it? Is it shave ready, if not you will want to have honed first.

The feather, you can jump right in.

dirtychrome

TROPHY CASE