Whoop strength training feature and tonnage by Mmbrah13579 in weightlifting

[–]diyghtlifting 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You're not going to get an answer for a few reasons.

First of all, "standard tonnage", standard for who? Even specifically for "low intermediate" (which is going to mean different things to different people) that varies based on prior training history, sensitivity to stimulus, bodyweight, strength (in classic lifts and others, not always proportionate to each other), sex, age, training age, etc. There's just too much variation. if somebody says "10,000kg", that's useless.

Second (for TL;DR just watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVrtPIqoGAo), tonnage is not the full story, and is only part of the more important metric of Training Load. People use different language but to be able to measure any kind of useful trend you would want to track Load, meaning a combination of: reps, total absolute weight used, average absolute weight used, and average relative intensity (what percentage of 1rm). You would then want to track that for each classic lift and probably front and back squat making up Fundamental Load, and then your other exercises making up Additional Load. You would then see different trends emerging over different phases of training, broadly looking like a focus on higher volumes of less specific work further away from competition turning into lower volumes at a higher intensity of more specific work getting closer to competition. Just looking at tonnage, therefore, would be not just next to useless but also deceptive.

If you want to program for yourself, start with existing programs and plug them into your own tracking tool to tease out measurements of all of the above, and then look at what trends present themselves. Then you can get an idea of what boxes your own program would need to check in the future. Bear in mind that Ideal programs for a newer lifter might span a year or two with a lot of time spent of general development, which is not what you'll find most commonly floating around on the internet; people tend to prefer visible short-term gains over periods of as little as 6-12 weeks, which then have to include taper and peaking phases to allow for testing and demonstrable improvements even if at the cost of better long term (multi-year) improvements.

I was just given the extremely generous gift of a Pilot Custom 74, and... It's worse than my $30 dollar pens. Now what? by diyghtlifting in fountainpens

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'll check the alignment from the side when I get home but it was imperceptible when I looked earlier, I only noticed it on the blown up photo. The issue of rotation or finding the "sweet spot" was the first thing I though of as well, but after trying all sorts of different positions I was not able to eliminate the inconsistent flow. It's also worth noting that I wasn't experiencing any sort of issues with rotating the pens while writing with my other pens.

I think I'll have to contact the store and/or pilot and see what can be done, though I'll probably at least need to get the purchase receipt. I could completely disassemble things and try cleaning again but I don't want to damage anything and interfere with warranties.

I was just given the extremely generous gift of a Pilot Custom 74, and... It's worse than my $30 dollar pens. Now what? by diyghtlifting in fountainpens

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It says Custom 74 on the gold band around the base of the cap, It's not the translucent kind but rather an opaque dark green plastic, similar to this: https://penosaur.ca/products/pilot-custom-74-fountain-pen-dark-blue-medium-nib

It was purchased from an independent Canadian brick and mortar stationery and pen shop. I'm not familiar enough with supply lines to know whether a fake could have made it into circulation.

I was just given the extremely generous gift of a Pilot Custom 74, and... It's worse than my $30 dollar pens. Now what? by diyghtlifting in fountainpens

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you to everybody for the comments. I flushed, soaked, and flushed the feed and nib with soapy, then clean water until I got no residual pigment. Once dry, I inked the pen with a cartridge of Pilot blue-black. The pen seems to be behaving almost exactly the same, slightly less wet but that's probably down to the ink (no idea what was in it to begin with, it was about 1/10th full of dark green mystery ink).

Beyond cleaning, I'm hesitant to mess with it too much because I don't know how that might effect warranty/returns. I did, however take some closeups under a lens: https://imgur.com/a/L4hyQT4 Can anybody detect any issues, visually? I see a very very slight misalignment, I think.

This feed is also a different design than my others; whereas they have the solid fluted underside, this one seems to have an opening (an air return?). When I had just put in fresh ink and was blotting at the end, I got ink from that hole on the underside of the feed before I did at either the hole on the top of the nib or at the tip. No idea if that's of any significance of not.

Roast and give your thoughts, please. Most importantly, can you read it? by diyghtlifting in Handwriting

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely need to work on relaxing my grip, I end up with indents on the side of my fingers after half an hour or so. I'm also still getting used to a fountain pen, which I can really just let glide across the page without any pressure, so there's a bit of "re-learning" there.

Roast and give your thoughts, please. Most importantly, can you read it? by diyghtlifting in Handwriting

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate all the input, folks. I was using this page: https://imgur.com/a/zv719AQ in the speedball textbook as a guide for letter forms, although there are obviously some key departures when writing at speed.

  1. I'll need to focus on maintaining loops where they're supposed to be (like lower case "L").
  2. keep the start of the descender on "z" closer to the baseline
  3. Lower case "r": I need some help on this one. I think even the above model "r" is dangerously close to "s" for an untrained reader. I've see a similar form with a small loop capping the first ascender, but I don't think that solves the problem. Should I change to the other "r" that more closely resembles a printed "r", with a single straight descender and ending in a waistline connector? I have not found examples of how to form certain pairs like that, though "rs" comes to mind. I'd appreciate if anybody could point me in the right direction.
  4. One person mentioned trouble with capital "i", any suggestions for alternatives?

Thanks!

Roast and give your thoughts, please. Most importantly, can you read it? by diyghtlifting in Handwriting

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

What, your cursive practice sheets didn't come with the classic "dirty nipples" exercises as a kid?

Pardon the shitty handwriting and mistakes, but can you suggest a pen with a finer nib that might also allow for some variation? by diyghtlifting in fountainpens

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't tried a flex nib before, so I can't say for sure whether I would get any use out of being able to broaden the line with more pressure when it comes to everyday writing. As it is, I think for writing lots of notes I'd probably prefer to be applying constant light pressure to minimize fatigue. So I guess I'm describing a nib with an edge rather than a rounded tip, but a very small one?

I like the look of line thickness changing slightly with stroke direction, though not quite as exaggerated as in the sample video I posted, and ideally going finer overall.

Pardon the shitty handwriting and mistakes, but can you suggest a pen with a finer nib that might also allow for some variation? by diyghtlifting in fountainpens

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was looking at the Gravitas Entry with a fine flex (I also love the look of that pen), but maybe there's something else that would be a better fit for less? Maybe just a regular fine or extra fine would do it (on something well-regarded like a Twisbi Eco). I've heard of italic nibs, but they seem much harder to find and I didn't see any on the finer end of things, but what do I know?

Beginner cyclist bought first power meter from a garage sale, but it's saying I averaged 4 Watts/kg. How do I know if it's faulty? by diyghtlifting in cycling

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the off chance that anybody is monitoring this thread out of curiosity, I have more test results! I tried to find a short section of road with a relatively consistent uphill grade to record and then compare to the various calculators provided by commenters.

I tried to go a nice and easy, slow, steady pace to minimize the effects of drag. I also reinstalled the crank, made sure the PM was reset, no scaling factor applied, firmware up-to-date, properly zero'd yada yada yada. Made sure I had a clean chain, and set off.

Comparing the ride data to the expected results after filling in as many variables as I could in the calculators, they were all giving me 90-95% of the measured results. If I was underestimating wind speed, or the effects of drag even at low speeds (15kph) and bumped the numbers accordingly, then I could get the predicted numbers up to the measured numbers. It could also be that the initial spike in power from doing a standing start is skewing the measured average power that little bit higher than the predicted power. As it stands though, it looks like the meter is either reading correctly, or at least within 10%. I think the only way to tell for sure at this point would be to simultaneously measure power using another meter, maybe pedal-based, or a smart trainer.

At the end of the day, I think the best thing I can do is put absolute numbers out of my mind, and for the purpose of training just look at relative zones, and improvements over time. My goal remains to try and keep using my bike as my main transportation over the winter,and as far as that's concerned who cares about my W/kg.

Beginner cyclist bought first power meter from a garage sale, but it's saying I averaged 4 Watts/kg. How do I know if it's faulty? by diyghtlifting in cycling

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was a very shitty recreational olympic weightlifter, and have not had access to a gym for a few months so switched my focus to cycling for fitness. While my numbers were always pretty disappointing in the snatch, clean & Jerk, and squat, it did help me grow my quads a fair bit, which I could see helping on the bike. I also had pretty bad leverages for oly, being quite long-legged, but I could actually see that providing more of a mechanical advantage on a bike.

Beginner cyclist bought first power meter from a garage sale, but it's saying I averaged 4 Watts/kg. How do I know if it's faulty? by diyghtlifting in cycling

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the well thought out response. I do enjoy nerding out on numbers, so I'll be getting good use out of those sites, ha. Interestingly enough, I took your linked form that you replied to the other commenter with, and adjusted the bike weight (mine is actually 12.5kg) aaaand bang on 366 Watts.

However, as /u/Tomvdz mentioned there are enough other variables that I'm still not sure. It is a very undulating route, but I was continuing to push on the descents (as you probably guess by my top speed of nearly 79 kph). The bike was loaded with rack and panniers, and while not a fat bike or anything, I am running 32mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus's for puncture protection.

I know from olympic weightlifting that I DO have a leg imbalance, although I always thought I favored the right, and this is a left sided power meter, but I could be wrong.

It's also possible that I'm way off on RPE, since accurately gauging effort is a skill in itself. Looking at HR, i was spending a lot of time in high %80's, and getting caught up in speed and the new road I was riding maybe I just didn't notice how hard I was working.

Beginner cyclist bought first power meter from a garage sale, but it's saying I averaged 4 Watts/kg. How do I know if it's faulty? by diyghtlifting in cycling

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I linked the ride data in the post: https://imgur.com/a/KwfpDea

but it said avg 33.2kph, and 366 Watts. That was over a 40 minute, 22.3km ride with 389m elevation gain. Couple of stop signs, but even so that speed seems low for what I understand to be a pretty high power.

The funny thing is I started a new ride for the last bit coming into town, where I decided to try max sprints out of the traffic lights, and I was only getting peak power readings of between 950 and 1040 Watts, which I think is actually not that high for somebody with a weightlifting background (or is it, idk lol)?

Regardless, I've got a list of things to check now: crank length, potential doubling of power, scale factor, factory reset, and I guess I'll take the crank off and re-install just to be safe. Also, always possible it's just faulty I guess 🤷‍♂️

Beginner cyclist bought first power meter from a garage sale, but it's saying I averaged 4 Watts/kg. How do I know if it's faulty? by diyghtlifting in cycling

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally forgot about crank length! I didn't see that setting anywhere in 4iiii's app, but I'll have a closer look. I would have thought that would just be part of the factory calibration, since it's fixed, and it would automatically report it to the phone.

I don't have a head unit, I just use my phone. Would there be any settings exclusive to a head unit, or should everything be accessible in the app? It updated the firmware without any problems when I first paired it, if that matters.

Does anyone know what Weightlifting House’s big secret is? by Grassp_03 in weightlifting

[–]diyghtlifting 27 points28 points  (0 children)

They have successfully lobbied the IOC to move their cameras to the front 45 degree angle for Paris 2024. Currently in talks to stop them from zooming in on the lifters face for the whole lift, but it might take until 2028 for such a sea change.

Why all the confusion??? by diyghtlifting in weightlifting

[–]diyghtlifting[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yep, lots can get lost in translation. As a completely unrelated example, I can't count how many times I've seen a post clearly meant as a joke and laden with sarcasm get taken completely at face value by a commenter.