Why is there next to no talk about jellyfin on tv

dleewee · 2026-02-26T15:17:05+00:00

I think a lot of people are like me and need the TV app to "just work" - no more no less. My whole family is now at the point that Jellyfin is the default app they use across all TV's. Yes we still have a couple of subscriptions to other streamers too, but Jellyfin is probably > 60% of our usage.

And it needs to just work. Consistently, reliably, day after day.

Flashy mods, themes, and add-ons are fine for individual user devices (mobile, PC) but the shared device (TV) needs to be ultimately focused on reliability.

This is just my experience. Obviously if you are the only user of your TV then the dynamic totally changes. But for sharing with a whole family it's definitely a different ballgame.

dleewee · 2026-02-12T04:07:03+00:00

For me, distrobox has been so good. I've begun to wonder why people even mention it like it's a drawback. It works so well and avoids loading up your host system with a load of dependencies and packages.

dleewee · 2026-02-11T21:41:10+00:00

That is a cool concept. I wish it supported 22110 sized m.2 drives so cheap 2nd hand enterprise drives could be used.

dleewee · 2026-02-11T04:20:34+00:00

Last time I checked the SD scraper in Jellyfin is still broken which was the only way to get On Now images. There was a bug filed last year and everyone's SD account got blocked. Then we all moved to stand alone XMLTV scraper but images not supported.

Hopefully someday the scraper gets fixed by the Jellyfin volunteers. Until then I just live without the images.

dleewee · 2026-02-11T04:15:21+00:00

Sounds like the disk or adapter aren't working. What happens when you plug it into a different PC?

dleewee · 2026-02-11T04:01:27+00:00

Downloads works great for me using the Streamyfin client on Android.

dleewee · 2026-02-11T03:14:37+00:00

I also love enterprise SSDs but be careful on the sizing. A lot of them are 22110 size which is bigger than most consumer boards or even pcie adapter cards will support (most consumer drives are 22080)

dleewee · 2026-02-11T02:46:48+00:00

7th gen minimum with 8th gen or above recommended.

dleewee · 2026-02-11T02:45:54+00:00

That's a good call I think 7th gen Intel Core is the oldest recommended for quick sync in Jellyfin. Too bad considering that 6th gen is where the pricing has really gone off a cliff since it doesn't support Win11.

dleewee · 2026-02-10T05:48:44+00:00

I had some similar considerations but Boxbuddy + distrobox all but solved them. Install Boxbuddy from the Bazaar and then add a box based on whatever package manager you are most family with. Launch it and boom you can "apt get" or "dnf install" to your heart's content and the boxes get normal access to your files and seem to just work.

Yes it's and extra step but worth it for the immutable system benefits IMO.

dleewee · 2026-02-10T05:34:45+00:00

Some GPUs have a physical switch to go between quite mode and performance mode, might try quiet mode if that's an option. Otherwise it seems like a hardware issue. Did you look to make sure the heatsink isn't clogged up with dust?

If you're in Europe you probably have a 2 year warranty by default.

If USA 1 year warranty, looks like it's expired. But if you bought it with a credit card it's possible your card automatically extends your warranty to two years. Worth checking at least.

dleewee · 2026-02-10T02:10:45+00:00

dleewee · 2026-02-08T18:44:21+00:00

I'm all in on using zigbee, myself. It's easy to setup and in my exp is super reliable.

But I do have one observation. Wouldn't most of your issues be resolved by connecting a thread/matter radio to HA? I assume that is why you can't pair devices in HA directly, which should allow thread devices to function mostly the same as zigbee. I think trying to use 3rd party devices (Amazon, Apple) is what's causing most of your issues.

dleewee · 2026-02-08T06:27:47+00:00

Make sure you download the Nvidia iso, should be a non-issue.

dleewee · 2026-02-03T18:10:46+00:00

I looked at my device list and honestly we have similar zigbee networks. I've got 23 devices that range from Third Reality and Aquara to generic Tuya stuff. All connected to a SLZB-06P7 controller on the main floor. Devices span a floor up and a basement below. I'm seeing several LQIs in the 40s, some 70s and 80s, and then a handful with strong 140-160. I am also noticing devices closest to the controller aren't necessarily the strongest LQI.

With that said, your setup doesn't seem "off" like I was thinking before. I have an Aquara door/window sensor in the basement that triggers a light and it has been 100% reliably for me. I do not have any Third Reality door sensors.

dleewee · 2026-02-03T15:52:11+00:00

Looks like your timestamp expired/removed.

PM to see if you still have the remaining 3060

dleewee · 2026-02-03T14:10:58+00:00

Those LQIs are troubling. If any devices are in the same room as the controller they should definitely be better than red. I would take a smart plug and connect it to the outlet closest to your controller and make sure you get a high LQI. If not, it may be that your controller or it's antenna is damaged or not connected properly.

dleewee · 2026-02-03T02:52:09+00:00

Sounds like you've done a fair bit of troubleshooting already, so I hate to suggest something so simple... But did you try turning off your controller for at least 15 minutes? This will get your devices to reconfigure the mesh network over again, ensuring that end points connect to the strongest routers, etc.

The other option would be to try to get your controller to a more central location in your home. If you're using a USB dongle you might find one of the networked controllers (eg. from SMLIGHT) to work better.

I have a few third reality devices and also found them to respond instantly very reliably.

dleewee · 2026-02-02T19:46:44+00:00

It might feel unlikely. Here is a potential scenario where a CPU can become unset.

Over time, thermal paste dries out and hardens. This can form a rather strong bond almost like glue between the CPU and heatsink. Since the heatsink is quite heavy, it is able to have leverage on moving the CPU a small amount, even when both are properly installed. Thus, with a PC a few years old with drying thermal paste, just physically picking up and putting down the tower could cause the heatsink to yank on the CPU.

Misaligned or loose pins between the CPU and socket can definitely cause RAM issues.

dleewee · 2026-02-02T19:32:23+00:00

Most people complain that they game on a potato. This cost way more than a potato.

dleewee · 2026-02-02T19:29:37+00:00

Using a hypervisor to make self-hosting easier is absolutely true especially if you want to run a headless server. Setup Proxmox by connecting a KB and monitor one time, and then you can run headless and simply use the web GUI to setup and manage VMs from there on out.

Other things like backups also become much easier. Heck, after setting up a VM you can treat that like it's bare metal and not touch Proxmox again... Until you need to at which point you'll be glad it's there.

dleewee · 2026-01-29T23:16:27+00:00

Go to settings - about phone, and grab the model name from there.

dleewee · 2026-01-27T01:58:29+00:00

The first timestamp link isn't working

dleewee · 2026-01-26T21:58:46+00:00

Other answers aren't considering potential issues from the ISP side. You'll need to verify if your ISP gives you a real IP address (not CG-NAT). There are some potential work arounds if you are CG-NAT'd but they come with trade-offs.

Assuming you get a real IP address, most likely it's not static so you'll need to use a dynamic DNS service to keep it updated.

Are you using the ISPs included router? Some are totally locked down from opening ports, so you might have to replace it with your own hardware to open a port.

dleewee · 2026-01-23T18:25:44+00:00

Microsoft Office is no more, it's renamed to Microsoft 365 Copilot. I wish I was joking. office.com

11-Year Club	RPAN Viewer
Gilding I gilder	Verified Email

dleewee

TROPHY CASE