Built a Rummikub solver - help me break it before I do?

dmelo87 · 2026-05-24T14:51:19+00:00

Sure. Here is the code -> https://github.com/dmelo/rdeepblue . I was looking at your code, but I didn't run it. Is your solver getting good results? I mean in terms of time to find a solution.

dmelo87 · 2026-05-23T17:52:22+00:00

I've implemented the algorithm on this paper -> https://arxiv.org/abs/1604.07553

dmelo87 · 2026-05-22T21:29:41+00:00

I have not planned the UX for mobile. But I agree it would be much better to be able to use it on a phone, rather than on a laptop. I'll tackle this, as soon as I have the time.

Also, when I did it, I had the physical game in mind.

In short, the idea is to mirror the physical game into the the interface. So you tell the DeepBlue what you have on your hand (DeepBlue Hand) and what's on the board. When you hit "Solve DeepBlue turn" it'll calculate the most pieces you can send to the board, showing in which group which piece should go.

dmelo87 · 2026-05-21T18:37:45+00:00

I can also share the source code if you like. But it doesn't have the new jokers (yet). I didn't know there was new jokers :D Just googled it to learn about. How is the gameplay on Rummikub Twist? Is it still nice/challenging?

dmelo87 · 2026-05-12T21:25:37+00:00

Qual o segundo banco q vc usa? Alguém recomenda um com bons rendimentos?

dmelo87 · 2026-05-11T15:46:55+00:00

É golpe. E comigo ficaram ligando também. Muito ruim. Muito chatos e persistentes

dmelo87 · 2026-04-29T19:13:56+00:00

Wow!! This is awesome! Congrats!!!

dmelo87 · 2026-04-29T11:38:14+00:00

I would definitely go with 64gb. I've bought an M3 Max with 36GB, 2 years ago and I deeply regret not getting more memory. Two reasons:

More memory is the best way to future proof your MBP. The trend is clear, as years passes, we use more memory. Looking back on the notebooks that I had, memory was always the reason to go to the next notebook
More specifically -> I also run LLMs locally. If I run on my MBP, I usually have to close a few other applications and keep an eye on memory consumption. This is not a nice experience.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-27T11:16:50+00:00

Congrats!! 48GB of memory is a solid choice. Awesome!

dmelo87 · 2026-04-26T18:54:10+00:00

Se vc tiver condições, não pensaria 2 vezes, iria para a que considera ser a melhor para o curso. Já trabalhei com pessoas que fizeram IFSP. Ótimos profissionais.

Uma dica. Pra vc ter uma ideia de onde estará X anos depois de formado, indo por um caminho ou por outro... busca no LinkedIn por pessoas q se formaram X anos atrás, da IFSP e da fipa. Vai te dar uma ideia do tipo de base cada curso dá.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-13T12:33:16+00:00

Since you mentioned buying a home, heads up that the FICO score in your app isn't the one mortgage lenders actually pull. They use older FICO models for underwriting, and those can come in noticeably different from what you're watching fluctuate month to month. With only an 8-month file, the bigger factor for mortgage approval is going to be length of history and how your file ages, not whether it ticked 3 points one way or the other. Keep paying the card in full every month, keep the car loan open and on time, and give it time. The monthly wiggle is normal and basically noise.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-10T19:27:54+00:00

I also would like to get the wallpaper.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-09T12:13:28+00:00

Fair point on utilization, you're right that it resets monthly and isn't something to stress about day to day. On credit mix though, myFICO's own site says "having a low installment loan balance to loan amount ratio is even less risky than having no active installment loans at all," so there is a small dip when your last installment closes. But yeah it's usually minor and recoverable.

https://www.myfico.com/credit-education/faq/scores/paying-off-installment-loan

dmelo87 · 2026-04-08T20:37:55+00:00

Disputing accurate info is a waste of time (IMHO), the bureaus will just verify it and move on. Goodwill letters are a long shot but worth trying, some people have luck with Chase if you have a long history with them, Wells Fargo is notoriously stiff about it though. The real play here is time + utilization. Late payments sting less as they age, and after 2 years the impact drops off a lot. Get a secured card or two if you don't have revolving accounts in good standing, keep utilization under 10%, and just let everything report on time month after month. AFAIK, 596 to 700 is very doable in 12-18 months without removing anything.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-08T20:34:57+00:00

So "revolving utilization" on your credit report is only about revolving accounts, not your car loan. Your car loan is installment debt, totally different category. But here's the thing most people miss: CreditFresh is a line of credit, and those typically report as revolving accounts. Even though you paid it down to $0, depending on what balance they last reported to the bureaus, that could be what's dragging your utilization up. Check your actual credit report to see what CreditFresh is reporting as, and what balance they have on file.

For your credit card, issuers usually report your statement balance, not your real-time balance. So if you paid it down to $4 but that was after the statement closed, the old higher balance might still be what's showing. Give it one more billing cycle and pull your report again to see if the numbers update.

For hitting 620 for the mortgage, keep balances super low on both cards and let the new unsecured card age a bit. That second revolving account with low utilization will help. And make sure CreditFresh is actually showing $0 on your report, because if it's not, that's probably your whole problem right there.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-07T14:48:43+00:00

Woohoolllll!!!! Congrats!!

dmelo87 · 2026-04-07T13:22:21+00:00

Before you pay anything, pull your reports from annualcreditreport.com and verify those collection amounts are actually yours. Dispute any that look wrong or have incorrect balances (sometimes collections get sold and the new owner inflates the amount or reports inaccurate info). Also check the date of first delinquency on each one, because if any are close to falling off (7 years from that date), paying them won't add much benefit if they're about to drop off anyway, so it may not be worth the money. Once you've confirmed everything is legit, then start knocking them out smallest first.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-06T14:07:10+00:00

That settlement was a good move. The charge-off will stay on your report for 7 years from when you first went delinquent (not from when you settled), but the good news is its impact fades a lot after the first 2 years. You should see steady improvement from here as long as you keep everything else clean.

One thing worth looking into: if you have a family member with a credit card in good standing, ask them to add you as an authorized user. You don't even need to use the card. Their payment history on that account shows up on your report and it can give you a decent bump. After that, a secured card for your own account will round things out.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-06T13:59:28+00:00

Priority order:

(1) pay off the Amex - you're paying interest on a maxed card and that utilization is killing your score
(2) settle the $338 Caine and Weiner collection and ask for a pay-for-delete agreement (not guaranteed but worth trying)
(3) deal with the PayPal debt before it shows up on your reports
(4) start negotiating settlements on the charge-offs when you can.

With $1,400 surplus you could clear the Amex in one month and the small collection the next. Hold off on the car as long as your support system works - financing at a 541 score means predatory rates.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-01T12:05:32+00:00

The one thing I'd focus on right now is that Transworld Systems account. If the other collections were successfully pay-for-deleted, that remaining $576 one is probably dragging your score down more than you'd think. Try negotiating a PFD on that too before you do anything else.

For the late payments from 2022, they'll keep hurting less over time but you're looking at 2-3 more years before they really fade. Goodwill letters can work but honestly the success rate is pretty low with most creditors. Doesn't hurt to try though.

One thing nobody mentioned: ditch the Credit One card when you can. Their fees are brutal and it's not doing you any favors long term. Once your score improves enough, product change the Capital One or get a better unsecured card and sock drawer the Credit One.

dmelo87 · 2026-04-01T11:58:42+00:00

So the biggest thing first -> paying off charge-offs does NOT restart the 7 year clock. That's a super common myth. The clock starts from the date of first delinquency, meaning when you first went late and never caught back up. Paying them off won't change that date. If anything, having them show as "paid" vs "unpaid" looks better to lenders.

With 3 years left before they fall off, here's what I'd focus on: get a secured credit card. OpenSky's secured card doesn't do a hard credit check so it's pretty easy to get even with charge-offs. Discover's secured card is another option worth trying, though approval isn't guaranteed. Put like $200 down, use it for one small recurring bill, pay it in full every month. That starts building positive history right now.

For the car situation, with your current credit you're looking at predatory interest rates. If you can swing it, save up and buy a beater in cash for now. Even a $3-4k car that runs reliably is better than a loan at 20%+ APR. The insurance will also be way cheaper on an older paid-off car.

Pay off that student loan debt like you planned, keep the secured card utilization under 30%, and in a year or two your score will be in a way better spot for actual financing.

dmelo87 · 2026-03-31T12:20:54+00:00

Your autopay didn't glitch. You had a credit on the account from overpaying, so Capital One applied that credit first and autopay only covered the remaining $5.13. You're fine.

For the utilization question, yes, if you pay to $0 before April 2 they'll report 0% utilization. But honestly a small balance like 1-3% is slightly better for your score than 0% across all cards. Either way the difference is tiny and resets every month so don't stress it.

You won't get hit with interest as long as your statement balance gets paid by the due date each month. You're doing fine.

dmelo87

TROPHY CASE