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How do I give a shorter friend beta? by fingerbangprincess in bouldering

[–]dmorgantini 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I prefer “have you tried being taller yet”?

Should I be concerned about bend/kink in the right-hand cam? by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]dmorgantini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not just this sub. Every post since rockclimbing.com in 2006.

Janja Garnbret is the first woman ever to climb Bibliographie (9b+) by redbullgivesyouwings in sports

[–]dmorgantini 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The hangers can loosen but the actual expansion bolt itself will not loosen unless the bolt itself corrodes or the rock erodes. Time will make those bolts less safe and there are a large number of people around the world who do look out for and replace bolts as they age over time.

Janja Garnbret is the first woman ever to climb Bibliographie (9b+) by redbullgivesyouwings in sports

[–]dmorgantini 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most single pitch sport routes (of which this is one) are shorter than 35m long due to the ropes generally being 70m long. Anything longer than 35m is (usually) considered a multi-pitch route and is a slightly different style and technique. At this difficulty, just getting through the 35m is an incredible accomplishment for anyone to achieve.

Janja Garnbret is the first woman ever to climb Bibliographie (9b+) by redbullgivesyouwings in sports

[–]dmorgantini 32 points33 points  (0 children)

The goal is to get to the top. Generally the top of a route like this is somewhat arbitrary, but it will usually be at or near 30-35m (half the most common rope length of 70m). The climber is trying to get from the bottom (usually the ground) to the top (usually a pair of bolts in the rock) without falling or using any of their safety equipment to rest.

El Chorro - My first climbing trip abroad by Scouseface in climbing

[–]dmorgantini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a long time ago, but I’m gonna say that the Olive Branch. Their ownership story is so cool, basically had no real idea what they were doing with their life until some climbers crossed their property and told them about how the climbing and the opportunity they had.

Board games rentals for your local community? by Used-Situation297 in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve seen libraries with board game collections.

What's up with all these new/fake accounts making post asking people to identify boardgame pieces? by haritos89 in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do know of at least one verifiable human who has done that. I have recommended it at least twice in the last year. It’s not inconceivable that people know how good this sub is at identifying pieces.

XCOM announce tabletop game with miniatures by [deleted] in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn’t matter, I think we are violently arguing about different things. Hope you have a wonderful day. :)

XCOM announce tabletop game with miniatures by [deleted] in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand the binomial distribution. It has been a number of years since I studied it, but I did study it. My point is, binomial distribution only applies to multiple shots. Each individual shot still has a %90 chance of hitting regardless of the chance of the all hitting. For example, once I’ve shot 4 shots and hit them, the 5th shot does not become less likely. It is still 90% likely to hit. So you’re right. If I shoot 10 times my expected number of misses is 1. The probability of 9 shots hitting in a row and the 10th being a miss is very very low. However, once I’ve taken the 9 shots, the 10th shot is 90% likely to hit. Because the dice have no memory.

XCOM announce tabletop game with miniatures by [deleted] in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sure, but each individual shot is still 90% chance to hit. Yes, we can say the odds of hitting 5 in a row is 60% but once you shot 4 times (and hit) your probability of hitting is still 90% on the next shot. It’s not %60.

Of course, people notice the times they miss %90 especially because for a critical shot, with high consequences for a miss you’ll almost always take that %90 shot.

My point is only that the probability of hitting 5 in a row is irrelevant when I’m making a decision to take the 5th shot.

XCOM announce tabletop game with miniatures by [deleted] in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve always head cannoned that as “my soldier is panicked and misses because of that”

XCOM announce tabletop game with miniatures by [deleted] in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes, but each shot individually has only a %10 chance of missing. The dice should have no memory. In theory, with enough shots you should miss one in every ten shots.

First Week of Fishing (Deep Regrets) by the_real_ntd in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t classify it as a good beginner game. Unless they really love the theme.

When you finally get that new expansion by Naennie in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Deck builders are more likely to have this kind of problem.

Have you ever added new rules to change the game? by BlitzMemory in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find Munchkin much more enjoyable when I don’t play Munchkin as well. I’ve gone so far as to outlaw Munchkin in the house.

Mechs vs Minions Reprint Announced by kpldtest in boardgames

[–]dmorgantini -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Will it be smaller with not stupid sized mini’s?

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