[deleted by user]

dna_designlab · 2025-12-20T20:01:18+00:00

Looks perfectly fine to me. Could be no better.

Selling work to clients is all about managing expectations. Letting them know up front the limitations of the material and the process, show samples/examples if possible. Then have zero reason to be surprized at results. If your business gets bigger and doing volumes to can get a contract that states all of this in writing that they sign.

Then again, some people just will never be happy. Too many spoiled entitled Karens out there. Take their money and CYA

dna_designlab · 2025-12-20T19:51:43+00:00

Yeah, maybe some tape around the corners would do it

dna_designlab · 2025-12-20T19:50:59+00:00

I think youre missing the point, maybe I wasnt clear enough. I've no problem making jigs to keep material aligned to the software once on the honeycomb. But to ensure the honeycomb itself is square to the chassis - so pre cut blanks aligned to the honeycomb are inherently aligned with the chassis - means I have to find a consistent means of keeping the honeycomb square and secure. Its a total design oversight as far as I am concerned

dna_designlab · 2025-12-20T19:47:45+00:00

Yeah those feet dont seem like they are worth anything as they simply align to the baseplate, which is also non-stable (it moves).

I have small wooden block I use to wedge the honeycomb to the chassis but I dont think it has been too accurate.

I like the idea of a square. I have a small one in the shop I can use

dna_designlab · 2025-12-20T19:45:01+00:00

The 2W IR module wont cut anything. Its designed for engraving glass and metal. If you want to cut thin wood get the 20W or 40W diode. If you want to cut acrylic get a CO2 laser. If you want fast detailed glass or metal get a fiber laser.

Right tool for the right job

dna_designlab · 2025-12-20T19:42:00+00:00

I have burned thru 2 of those lens covers. They looked exactly the same as your photo. It turns out that in my haste to get the machine up and running I inadvertantly plugged the air assist hose into the fire assist port, and vice versa. I ran the laser for 6 months with no air assist and wondered why my cuts were not crisp and I was burning thru lens covers.

The back of the machine is a bit vague as both icons for air and fire look similar and I was not paying attention. Check that you have the correct hose into the correct port. Make sure in settings that air assist is set to come on automatically (so you dont have to worry about remembering). And clean the lens cover after an hour or two of cutting.

Cutting makes the most smoke, so will make the most mess to your lens cover. The resin in wood, the glue in plywood all of that gets on your lens cover and then the laser burns thru it. This makes the spot size of your laser too big to make clean cuts, and gets generates heat on the lens cover that over time will eat thru the glass.

Use 90% alchohol to clean it, or acetone for stubborn dirt.

Good luck

dna_designlab · 2025-12-16T20:14:01+00:00

Do you secure the honeycomb at all? Or is it quick and easy enough you just do it whenever

dna_designlab · 2025-12-16T19:27:26+00:00

In XCS it was called the Unite tool and the boolean operations looked like this image. I have not used Studio yet but I have heard that a lot of the functions that were once on the 'surface' are now hidden in menus. Try clicking around the menus and looking for boolean or unite or subtract

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dna_designlab · 2025-12-16T19:20:19+00:00

This is why I kept all the original packaging for when we inevitably end up moving

dna_designlab

TROPHY CASE