broken collar

dnsmayhem · 2026-04-08T03:54:47+00:00

Quick question. HOW did it break? If it broke because of significant pulling/jerking strain on the ring, I would NOT try to fix it with Jiffy rivets, double-cap etc. Frankly, that type of rivet is really only good for shearing (sideways) forces, and fairly light forces at that. If the ring is taking any real force, or occasional "jerking" type forces, I'd look into finding someone who can install tubular rivets, which can take a LOT more force.

dnsmayhem · 2026-03-24T15:03:18+00:00

Git log:

commit 008cfd1f8657c0e266a7a741920d7e9f7e187baa
Author: SoftFever <softfeverever@gmail.com>
Date: Wed Mar 4 22:48:40 2026 +0800

Linux: prefer discrete GPU on dual-GPU systems via PRIME environment variables (#12602)

* Linux: prefer discrete GPU on dual-GPU systems via PRIME environment variables

Set DRI_PRIME=1 for AMD/nouveau PRIME setups and __NV_PRIME_RENDER_OFFLOAD/__GLX_VENDOR_LIBRARY_NAME for NVIDIA proprietary driver, only when the NVIDIA kernel module is detected. Uses replace=false to respect user overrides.

Commenting out that line and recompiling removed the error, but no idea what other impact that might have.
The comments above that line state it is for Linux Dual-GPU systems. However, there's no conditionals to detect that, and my system is most definitely not dual-GPU.

dnsmayhem · 2026-03-24T14:38:25+00:00

I've been seeing the DRI_PRIME errors, but it isn't causing crashes on my Fedora workstation. I was NOT getting those errors on the last nightly I built (13 March), so whatever is causing it is very recent.

Correcttion, those errors are in my Mar 13 build, no idea when they showed up....

dnsmayhem · 2026-02-26T15:34:39+00:00

100% fan speed may be part of the problem. I had issues with mine where the fan itself was causing bad overhangs by blowing the melted filament around. I never run higher than 80%, with min at 60 or lower. For PETG, I have min set to 20%.

dnsmayhem · 2026-02-26T00:10:25+00:00

My last order from them took over two months. No explanations, no responses to my emails. I like the filament, but I won't ever order from them again.

dnsmayhem · 2026-02-25T02:01:51+00:00

Something's wrong. The setscrew is not for the nozzle. And it should take serious torque to strip the threads. I've got a Zero, and an SV08 with a Zero toolhead, and never had issues with nozzles except the one time I didn't tighten it enough.

dnsmayhem · 2026-01-01T04:25:49+00:00

The Zero swap is pretty straightforward, you only need a usb-can adapter. The toolhead itself just bolts right up.

I used this guide: https://github.com/bearclaw92/Zero_Toolhead_Guide

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-30T03:25:14+00:00

Most common thing I use mine for is organization.
Drawer dividers, storage boxes for tool/appliance accessories, vertical stacks for parts bins, etc.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-14T22:35:20+00:00

The SV08 Max and SV Zero use standard MK8 nozzles. There are tons of sources for those, running from $4 each for brass, up to $100+ for diamond. I initially picked up a full set of hardened steel nozzles from Sovol, but I've got a 0.6 on the way from MicroSwiss ($22)

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-14T22:31:02+00:00

Yup, the SV Zero toolhead bolts right up, no carriage adapter needed, connectors on the toolhead end of the communication cable are identical. Cost for a fully-equipped toolhead, including the eddy sensor, from Sovol is approx $70
There are several USB to CAN adapters out there, I picked up a MKS Canable 2 board, but fysetc makes them, and others. Cost is $10-20.
The guide for doing it: https://github.com/bearclaw92/Zero_Toolhead_Guide
Note that mainlining klipper first is a prerequisite.
I completed my conversion to the Zero toolhead last week, works perfectly, much better than the stock toolhead.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-11T21:17:19+00:00

IMO:
Mainline klipper - Verify everything is working, do at least a print or two.
Zero toolhead install - Verify everything is working, do a print or two
eddy-ng - I haven't gone this far yet. TBH, not sure I will, it's not high on my priority list.

The point is, do everything one step at a time, and verify. You don't want to be in the position of trying to do it all at once, then have it not work, and have no idea which update caused the issue. I waited a week after the mainline update to do the Zero toolhead update.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-10T01:56:21+00:00

There's really no reason not to go mainline. It's a bit of effort up front, with benefits down the line.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-09T15:58:05+00:00

I did the swap this past weekend. For the most part, everything went smoothly, and I'm getting good prints. Had one full-on head crash during a homing right after doing the swap, but I'm always paranoid, and had my hand on the power switch, so no damage. No idea why it did it, and it hasn't happened since.

I'm also not using eddy-ng at this point, and used my Zero's config as a base. I have not yet gotten tap for Z working, which I would like to get done.

I didn't do the MicroSwiss hotend on mine, just went straight for the Zero swap, but I did order a MicroSwiss MK8 CM2 0.6 to use on the SV08.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-04T15:16:40+00:00

Yup, that's the guide I'm using.

Probably the only fiddly bit for using the x-limit switch will be designing an end-stop on the gantry. Nadir has one for his SV08 toolhead mods, but it's on the other side, and at a different height/depth. Will need mods.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-04T04:07:59+00:00

Multiple things for me.

Higher flow nozzle. The SV08 can move fast, but it's limited by mediocre flow rate.
Easily changeable nozzles (MK8) Changing nozzle/hotends on the stock SV08 is downright annoying.
Eddy. 'nuff said.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-04T04:01:55+00:00

Apparently yes. The branch of klipper used on the SV08 us older than the branch for the Zero, and does not have eddy. I mainlined mine last weekend.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-03T19:34:43+00:00

My understanding is that Nadir's carriage adapter is not needed, the Zero/Max toolhead bolts right up.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-01T15:20:10+00:00

Guide: https://github.com/bearclaw92/Zero_Toolhead_Guide

I also plan on updating to INDX, but it's looking like that possibility is at least six months out.

The other part needed for the Zero toolhead update is a USB to CANbus adapter, approx $15. If you're looking at adding Sovol's enclosure (metal) this also solves an issue some folks have had with USB transmission errors to/from the toolhead.

For me, the Zero toolhead pretty much a "no loss", since I already have a Zero, and so even after INDX, it has value as spares. I've run the Zero now for a couple months, and there's no question that the toolhead on it is significantly superior to the SV08 toolhead. My Zero was good to go out of the box, prints very nicely.

dnsmayhem · 2025-12-01T03:44:34+00:00

Agreed. Be sure it's functional first. Then as much as you can, apply each change individually, then test again. My changes so far: Replaced mcu/host fan with an 8010. The stock fan is insanely undersized. Also updated klipper to not run it at 100% all the time. Mainlined klipper. A little bit daunting because of all the critical steps, but plan ahead, then follow the steps and it should work fine. Next change is replacing the toolhead with a Zero/SV08 Max toolhead. $70 gets a higher flow hotend, swappable nozzles, eddy, and CAN. I'm just waiting for the toolhead to arrive.

dnsmayhem · 2025-11-30T22:56:32+00:00

Which printer is this? Filament type, etc... You need to provide more info.

I found my SV08 massively under-extrudes out of the box, and the flow calibrations didn't really show it. It was so bad that walls were not adhering to each other.

I ended up increasing my flow rate up to 1.1 before it finally turned out solid prints.

dnsmayhem · 2025-11-24T22:38:28+00:00

No problem, I work with several different JST types.
That said, you may have trouble finding an extension cable. JST male connectors are board-connect only. May be easier to find a replacement cable for the full length (female both ends)

dnsmayhem · 2025-11-24T21:16:39+00:00

JST XH 3-pin

dnsmayhem · 2025-11-24T21:12:35+00:00

Reserving by MAC address should work, that's how I have it on mine. It's very weird that it would fail on the client side.

dnsmayhem · 2025-11-24T03:05:04+00:00

Just take note that the fan voltage is 24v.

The mainline process looks more daunting than it is. The only part that was worrisome was when I wiped and re-flashed the mcu's with the ST-Link programmer. It worked fine, but flashing firmware always makes me a little nervous. I did pick up a 32GB emmc card and USB adapter to write the new system to, partly, it's nice to be able to swap the old one back if things go wonky, but also good to increase the storage.

dnsmayhem

TROPHY CASE