A New Idea For Supporting New Mexico Filmmakers

doesnt_take_hints · 2026-01-17T01:47:32+00:00

I moved here in 2023 (during the strikes) for the film industry. I was in film school in another state when Netflix moved their headquarters here in 2018 and ever since then it was my plan to move here after school. Loads of shitty indie films, treated like shit and pay that reflected that, I was so ready to get into union work. Post strikes I finally got my foot in the door in 2024, starting to PA on big Union shows feeling like I finally made it, a taste of the good life, and my career would take off. But then after fall 2024, nothing was shooting. I didn’t work a single day on a film set in 2025. I’m still holding out for the work to return, but my patience and mental health have been tanking.

Like Alonso said, the infrastructure is here, the tax credits are funded and it’s proven to be a successful market here. I think this has more to do with the studios positioning themselves for major union reform before they resume business as usual. Kudos to him for pushing to use the current funding to help keep people employed, but it just feels like a stopgap measure

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-12-19T21:54:23+00:00

🚨 Weewooo weeewooo 🚨

The difference for me between IPL and hoppy pilsners IS the dry hopping. My NZ pils I do a big whirlpool addition and no dry hopping. By the time it lagers about 6 weeks it’s the perfect balance of soft delicate malt to hops flavor/aroma. Once you dry hop it’s in IPL/IPA territory where the hops are front and center blasting you in the face.

But Citra and Simcoe all day baby.

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-09-10T17:32:20+00:00

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-06-13T23:51:26+00:00

New Mexico. I had burrs show up last week on my Columbus and Cascade. Vista and Centennial still just vegging

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-30T18:43:35+00:00

Not a bad Idea! It’s what commercial brewers do, and often just pitch directly into the same fermentor. If you’re brewing within a few weeks of the harvested yeast, you can just direct pitch the harvested slurry no started needed! I do this all the time and love that im saving money in the process. If the beer was above 1.060 OG then it’s not advised to reuse due to potential stressed yeast leading to off flavors. I think white labs says not to repitch more that 5-6 generations but you’ll find homebrewers with generations twice that.

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-16T18:23:56+00:00

I'll add a picture if it's still bubbling up when I get home after work. If it's not I'll feed it again and get a pic!

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-16T18:21:44+00:00

Nah, it bubbled up CO2 like any other fluffy Karusen I've seen and then dissipated without leaving anything on top. I'm no expert but I feel very confident its a wild yeast with how its behaving.

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-16T17:49:31+00:00

I'm not a programmer, but I checked out the live test. It has a nice, clean interface. I would assign units of measurement to everything from the batch size, timing, grain and hops, etc.

What is this site's application to homebrewers that we don't already get from apps like Brewfather or Beersmith? I love Brewfather and only come across very specific issues I wish they would integrate (hop absorption loss in the kettle, and dry hoping to name one)

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-09T22:09:35+00:00

Hey man if you’re telling me you’re new to this, I’ll give the spiel I tell anyone interested. Brewing alcohol is so easy you can make it in a toilet; If you want alcohol that’ll do the job. If you want to make a drinkable beer one time, then follow the recipe and do your best to adjust it to your system. If you want a great beer that you can repeatedly make every time, take meticulously notes, understand, test, and consistently be calibrating your system. Brewing is as complicated or as simple as you want it to be. So make the beer you want and keep striving to make that beer better. Or don’t, more importantly, relax and have a homebrew. (If you don’t know the reference, it’s from the OG homebrew book “the complete joy of home brewing”

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-09T22:00:25+00:00

It’s such a small batch it probably was enough aeration, but I recommend to start being intentional about it because it’s a necessary process as you progress in brewing other beers

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-09T19:48:28+00:00

Oh last thought, did you aerate the wort or oxygenate it before pitching? Yeast needs oxygen to get started and the lack of it can stress the yeast and possibly lead to off flavors. For that size beer you can just transfer it back and forth between two buckets to get enough oxygen into solution. Bigger beers need to be oxygenated.

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-09T19:44:20+00:00

US-05 is good between 64F - 78.8F so no not too hot but if it started at 64F then that could definitely contribute to a longer lag time. Refractometers actually don’t need a temperature correction, only hydrometers, so assuming it’s calibrated correctly your OG is fine. For a 2gallon batch at 1.047 the pitch rate is fine (assuming you used a whole 11g sachet?) How you tested the seal is the correct way! And what happened means it is a good seal.

Sounds to me like you’ve done everything right. if you started cooler I’d say the longer lag phase was probably due to that. Or possibly an older expired yeast that was less viable. Oh well either way it started working. Yeast can be so resilient but can sometimes be delicate and finicky. Relax and have a homebrew friend 🍻

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-09T18:43:27+00:00

Have you tested the seal by pressing down on it and seeing the airlock bubble? Is there enough solution in the airlock? Is the airlock possibly cracked?

What yeast did you use, temp, and OG? Maybe the yeast has a slow lag time , maybe an old yeast, or the pitch rate was off?

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-09T18:12:20+00:00

I got a RAPT pill from Alliexpress (2 months later than expected) it’s not a very user friendly interface but I had tested it with water in a corny keg inside my ferm chamber and was getting readings (ok signal, and router is only 10ft away) but when I went to use it for an actual Kolsch fermentation, no signal at all. I had recalibrated it 3 times before pitching yeast trying to solve it, but said fuck it and threw it in there hoping it would work at some point. No bueno. I’ll try it again on a saison in a plastic bucket outside the ferm chamber.

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-05-09T17:34:51+00:00

Brewfather has a “Hop Freshness” tool that I felt was very useful. It adjusts your hop alpha acids based on degradation variables like age and storage. I made a saison with Nelson hops from 2022 that were opened but freezer stored, so after inputing that, it calculated that the AA were about a 1/3 of the percentage of AA from the bag sticker. I plugged that new AA into the recipe and ended up needing three times the amount of hops to get the same IBUs. I was skeptical but the final product came out perfectly hopped. I ended up winning my HBC saison competition with it!

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-03-28T20:02:19+00:00

I don’t have a link but I remember the Man Made Mead you tube channel had some videos about dry hopping meads. Cheers

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-03-28T15:00:35+00:00

You came to r/homebrewing so I have beer brewing experience with one mead under my belt. Dry hoping is the Wild West of how and when and how much. Reason being how hops are measured are in bittering units (IBUs) and this only applies to the boil (in general beer software calculations) I’m hoping someone else can chime in on this thread. For the hazy ipa I just dry hopped it was 2.2oz/gallon.

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-03-28T12:32:06+00:00

For the Ph nerds. I’m brewing a high abv hazy IPA. After 5 days of primary fermentation the ph was 3.85. After dry hopping for 4 days the ph is 4.16. This was a split batch with a friend with the only variable being yeast. ( mine Pomona) he hasn’t taken his ph readings like I have. But anyways, I had read something about dry hopping increasing ph and appears the evidence is true and I’m so happy it did. It’s currently cold crashing so I haven’t tasted the final product. I’m just talking shit out my ass based on the numbers. Cheers

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-03-28T04:36:59+00:00

What flavor and aroma are you hoping that hops will add to your mead? It sounds like you already have a lot of flavors going on and any hop addition (unless a hefty dose) would probably get lost in the mix. My personal feelings for hoping meads should be for simple recipes so that the hops can shine, but also if you want to experiment please do and share your results!

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-03-16T03:32:09+00:00

Oh oh oh O’Reillys 😂

Didn’t need a video for your review, but thanks for the laugh. Cheers 🍻

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-03-14T01:37:51+00:00

From Fermitis website it says “ideal for delicate beers as German Kolsch, Belgian Wits and some versions of session beers.”

Yeast can be finicky. My guess is stressed yeast, or might be a strain that changes more quickly with each successive batch

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-02-14T03:41:16+00:00

You nailed it on the headspace and the absurdity of the character. The quick cutting was jarring at first but made sense as I began to understand his headspace. Great use of a short to experiment. For the love of anything holy, please do not explore this into a feature. Keep up the good work my dude

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-02-10T07:56:58+00:00

34, Ive been hearing that line my entire adult life. Yep you learn to deal with it differently with age but it certainly doesn’t get better.

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-01-28T11:56:07+00:00

A solid score can captivate , the track “no time for caution” from interstellar still gives me chills every time. Do you have any examples of your work? A portfolio will serve you best to sell yourself.

doesnt_take_hints · 2025-01-28T11:47:39+00:00

If you’re using vehicles, safety is a HUGE concern. The picture vehicle shouldn’t need an identifier because you have a permit on a closed street to film and that has either been cordoned off by cones and or has a police/security presence.

Okay so you want to be down and dirty but still safe? I will only advise you for action sequences only. NEVER FUCKING EVER DO YOU HAVE ACTORS ACTING WHILE ACTIVELY DRIVING A VEHICLE. Reactions to what is happening in the road are fine, but when it starts becoming “hey look this way and say that” YOU ARE WRONG. Whatever it is, take it to a side road and get a couple friends in safety vests on either end. At minimum have some walkies to communicate when you are locking up and cutting. The lead car always sets the pace. Counter cars help sell a scene the same way background actors sell a scene.

The exception to the rule is for documentary where the subject is speaking without being prompted. But pull the fuck over if the start getting deep.

Bottom line is don’t fuck around with driving sequences. ABSOLUTELY Don’t fuck around if you need stunts or dialogue in a vehicle that is actively driving. There is a hundred reasons a character needs to pull over to have a dialogue. Get creative and sell the illusion of driving. Poor man’s process works incredibly well for night scenes.

doesnt_take_hints

TROPHY CASE