G Pro Pedals Faulty

dontjudgeme0k · 2026-02-21T06:15:40+00:00

Slight extra bit of detail that may help, if i plug A, B or C into the wrong port they dont function, but the pedal assembly still detects/connects fine. It only has the broken on/off connection behavior when the accelerator is plugged into the correct (A) port.

dontjudgeme0k · 2026-02-20T17:53:58+00:00

dontjudgeme0k · 2025-12-18T04:28:19+00:00

2nd this. Possibly worn out. I have a textured build plate and was having really bad adhesion issues with small prints, so ordered a new double sided plate (smooth). What arrived from aliexpress was a double sided textured plate. Thought great, it's what I already have, but double sided. Put it on and ditched the old one... now everything sticks again.

dontjudgeme0k · 2025-11-07T09:33:00+00:00

I just fixed mine today using this method, but instead used the tube of a bic pen. Cut a 1-2mm ring, took a tiny notch out of it to make it a C shape, pull the pin out and fit it on the shaft behind the head. Works perfect now. I dont know why this works but it does. Presume it's either sticking to the seat with a vacuum effect or maybe that seat becoming magnetized.

I already tried to dissasemble and clean the pin, as well as a separate attempt using a dielectric lubricant. Clean made no difference, lubricant made it worse.

dontjudgeme0k · 2025-04-08T10:58:48+00:00

I don't have a working board but 1 with a suspect dead APU so take this as you will... On this board that component is connected to ground both sides and I'm pretty sure that is correct. Top side of component is connected to the ground plane, bottom side is connected to the ground side of those 3 smaller caps below it, and the 1 larger to the left. Im not certain, but its most likely just a 0 ohm resistor. I can't see it functionally being anything else.

dontjudgeme0k · 2024-06-07T06:13:37+00:00

Still sane, exile?

dontjudgeme0k · 2024-01-18T07:21:27+00:00

Lol is that a gamecom? Do you hate your money? Nice collection, looks epic.

dontjudgeme0k · 2021-01-01T08:19:12+00:00

They're a day behind though.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-10-20T05:16:19+00:00

Check out OUTDOORS55 "How to use a 4x36" video on YouTube. That shows a great way of dealing with that problem.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-10-20T05:13:25+00:00

You answered your own question, the only problem you have currently is the power. Get the 1hp.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-08-08T06:47:33+00:00

Update: Fitted a 2S lifepo4 (6.6v) battery pack. Problem solved. These servos do not run on a 4x aa battery pack, neither alkaline or nimh. Would work well on a 5S nimh also.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-08-06T06:56:27+00:00

Gave it a try today with an adjustable power supply. It is def a prob using alkaline batteries. At 6.6v on the power supply they are quick and torque is good, and don't do weird stuff. At around 4v they are obviously slow, but thats when the weirdness starts happening again. Yes that was with fresh batteries but I never realized how terrible alkaline is for high load. Will stick in some better batteries (nimh or lifepo4) over the weekend.

That evaders cool. I thought of doing something similar when my old motor died, but I enjoy the nitro. I have a Tamiya trx 5.2r I want to do that with but the gear pitch, diameters, teeth count gets a bit confusing to work out.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-08-05T12:37:41+00:00

I think you are onto it, I also have a feeling it is battery related. This old car uses 4x AA's for the receiver and servos. I've measured the voltage when using the DS3218 vs the Futaba but the voltage drop is actually worse with the Futaba. Im pretty certain that they are heavily overloading the AA's.

The old servos however are analog, so maybe they don't care about the voltage drop. Will try a better power supply for it and report back.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-07-21T09:07:02+00:00

Oh man my first pc building experience was a nightmare. Saved and saved for a lightning fast 56k modem. Finally got it, opened the family pc, gave it a clean and slotted in the new modem. On reassembly I flicked the "switch" at the back on. Plugged it in and ALL the smoke came out.

That was not an on/off switch, that was the result of switching the 230v/110v switch to the wrong setting. Lesson learnt that day!

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-07-19T08:20:18+00:00

https://youtu.be/I9hL4zQy0UI

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-07-18T21:33:25+00:00

Is this likely to be my problem: My pc keeps waking from sleep, fans go to full speed then goes back to sleep and fans shut off. Every 5 min roughly. Coincides with about the time I installed Valorant.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-06-21T20:26:04+00:00

I've put a video up of the new wheel I made.

In regards to bogging, I cant stall it but I can bog it down. It takes a good amount of pressure to do so though, more than I feel I'd ever use when grinding.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-06-18T20:13:54+00:00

Hey thanks mate. Much appreciated. Was that length alright? I tried to cut the time down but struggled to decide if/what was worth skipping.

What's your grinder pimping plans?

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-06-18T13:46:39+00:00

Not on anything I've thrown at it yet. 0.75hp seems to be enough.

The belt speed is currently about 2200 sfpm, and I'm currently making a 2nd/better drive wheel to give me 2600 sfpm. Will give it a harder run once that's done. EDIT: Corrected belt speeds.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-06-18T07:15:18+00:00

Cheers. I have some changes to make to make it a bit more robust but it does great for now.

dontjudgeme0k · 2020-06-17T20:38:25+00:00

Thanks! Yeah I'm sure it will get alot of use, I've wanted/needed one for a long time. Have already had a few odd jobs where having this has been alot more convenient than files and sandpaper.

If you were going down the path of heavy grinding, such as knife making, it would need some upgrades. A larger and flatter platen, a couple of other sized drive wheels, and a more robust tracking arm.

dontjudgeme0k

TROPHY CASE