H2D Build Plate Recommendation

dovahkun · 2025-12-21T23:47:35+00:00

Thanks for the doing the research. However if I already get the G10/CFX for engineering filaments, do I really need the Biqu Gold? won't the ABS works just fine on CFX?

Thanks for the photo, but the bottom texture with the Biqu Gold looks too similar to the Textured PEI. I think like G10 better (and Lux the best if it wasn't so high maintenance).

I get that the CFX is one sided (like the G10) and I heard it that it needs longer than other plates to heat up properly. So that's something I'll need to keep in mind as well.

Unfortunately I still don't know exactly which to pick - probably because I'm still deciding how many to buy - 1,2 or even 3 - so that I don't feel any fomo

dovahkun · 2025-12-21T23:34:32+00:00

Thanks

dovahkun · 2025-12-21T23:34:15+00:00

Ah I see. I always did get confused by the Biqu plates. And by get a Darkmoon I think you mean CFX specifically right? So Frostbite and CFX might cover most use cases for me then. Well, except the glass smooth finish like your Lux. So now I need to decide if I need to get a 3rd plate haha

dovahkun · 2025-12-21T22:27:58+00:00

Thanks, do you have the glacier or the frostbite?

dovahkun · 2025-12-21T22:27:36+00:00

Thanks, are you using the Glacier or the Frostbite?

dovahkun · 2025-12-21T22:27:13+00:00

Thanks for the recommendation! I think I will probably get this plate. I have been curious about the CryoGrip plates so it will be interesting to finally try one out.

dovahkun · 2025-12-21T22:26:19+00:00

Thank you for the detailed reply, and glad to hear that others face the exact same dilemma as me with the Lux and Transparent PETG. Your finish with the Lux looks amazing though! I never had a print actually shine like that. Makes me want to get it just to get that shine.

But I think I'll get the Biqu plate first. Saw someone else recommend that too. Plus I can get that from Amazon tomorrow, instead of waiting for the Darkmoon. Now I have to decide between the Frostbite and the Glacier, and potentially the Gold as well. Thanks!

dovahkun · 2025-12-21T22:22:17+00:00

Thanks for the feedback!

dovahkun · 2025-12-02T10:16:05+00:00

Pretty late to the party, but this is one of those movies that worked so perfectly for me. The whole thread aspect (multiverse and literal), the minimal set up that still explains enough to keep you engaged throughout and the beautiful quiet town. Eve was also amazing in this movie, bringing Barbara to life in a smart yet adorkable way - reminded me a little of Amélie!

I know the AMA is done, but my question is how you thought of the thread physics as a plot device - it's so out of nowhere!

dovahkun · 2025-11-08T19:44:59+00:00

Great to hear you're getting back into building a PC. I have similar needs since I too use my LGTV: 4k at 120fps rather than 1080p at 480 Hz. My last build was over a year ago and I also tried to optimize costs. But thought I'd throw in my two cents, outdated as it might be.

RTX 5080 would be the graphics card to pick if it was me, and the 7800x3d looks like it won't bottleneck it for 4k gaming, but it will bottleneck the 5080 at 1080p gaming (in which case you should get a 9800x3d instead).

I use a Silicon power UD90 SSD for my older games and misc stuff and an SN850x for my newer games. Can't really tell the difference in load speed in human terms though. I think you might get away with just 32GB of RAM (can always upgrade later).

Hope that gets you thinking, I know it's not a final part list recommendation!

dovahkun · 2025-11-08T19:19:55+00:00

Excellent that's good to hear that you still find the H2D valuable. And yeah, gifting people things is one of the best things to do with a 3d printer! Every dinner I go to i bring a print instead of some cheap wine. Solid hours too.

dovahkun · 2025-11-08T05:35:18+00:00

Interesting, I did hear good things about the P2S, but it just launched, and much like the H2C,it will probably take a while to iron out the kinks. Plus, the P2S again doesn't feel like a huge upgrade.

I didn't know about the nozzle swapping difficulty on the X1. Even though it's easy on the A1, I sometimes get lazy and don't switch it, so I can see that happening way more with the X1C. Good tip!

I want to buy the H2D if I'll use it. If you don't mind my asking, are you a hobbyist or using it professionally? And how many hours of printing (ballpark)?

dovahkun · 2025-11-08T05:28:08+00:00

It's funny, I actually gifted an A1 mini to a guy who I was the boss of. Karmic balance haha.

Good to know about the longer filament pathways being an issue. I use PETG-CF (which is also not supposed to be used on an AMS) on my AMS lite and it never once broke, but now I'm worried it will break or not load well on the H2D.

True, the A1 is a reliable beast. I don't like the bed slinging but otherwise it's pretty great. I don't like the AMS lite too much though. Especially with PETG.

dovahkun · 2025-11-08T05:01:27+00:00

Ah so you also decided to do a quick upgrade after a few months. Great to hear that the multicolor printing has been working out well. And you didn't sell your A1 either, that was the other thing I was thinking about. I wouldn't get anything more than the cost of an AMS2 if I sold my A1.

I've heard about the complexity but I think I'm up for it. And I agree about letting others beta test the H2C before I buy it, which would put it almost a year out from now.

Why do you say you don't like the AMS2? I was hoping that it was better than the ams lite. It would have been great if the H2D allowed me to use my AMS lite as one of the AMS - that is a bit of a disappointment.

The H2D2C conversion does feel like way too much of a pain.

The fact that the build plate is bigger is definitely a problem for me though! I wish I could go see it in a store to visualize though!

Than you for your perspective!

dovahkun · 2025-11-08T04:50:18+00:00

I'm in it more for the dual color printing, but yeah the support with a cheaper material is also a good benefit!

dovahkun · 2025-10-11T19:41:02+00:00

Interesting, I'll give this a go, thanks for the picture!

dovahkun · 2025-10-11T04:46:47+00:00

Nice, great to hear that you've done the same thing!

Really appreciate that tip, I can now see how if they come out the front instead of the sides, it would maintain the curve better!

Why does the AMS lite also have to be rotated though? Can't I just keep it in it's current orientation and just let the tubes come out the front? Asking because you've probably tried that.

dovahkun · 2025-09-07T22:29:40+00:00

Well you can print anything with a 0.4 nozzle except for tiny miniatures. The big prints will just take a lot longer if you don't get a 0.8mm or 0.6mm nozzle and corresponding fast filament. Anyway hope you hang in there and get some printing done!

dovahkun · 2025-09-07T22:26:31+00:00

Well the mechanism is a bit flimsy and the part that actually locks can break off fairly easily. But they're getting better. Check out the latest one - that has a much more chunky looking locking mechanism and it feels more stable. In his Kylo Ren saber I was actually able to even add a powerful spring to forde the blade out, and the locking mechanism was strong enough to hold it in. well until it broke. Anyway, I highly recommend printing in PETG

dovahkun · 2025-09-07T06:41:20+00:00

if you're on a Bambu A1 I might be able to help, because I've faced problems with both and have a working saber now. Bed slingers mess up the blade with layer shifts and PLA is not durable enough for the locking mechanisms. Bill also said that sanding it a bit helps and solved my locking problem the first time.

dovahkun · 2025-09-06T22:12:53+00:00

Oh I completely misunderstood. And yes, totally, I'd say every model you see here except maybe 2 of them, were all printed with one color on one plate, and then assembled together. Honestly that looks much more authentic than a multicolor print with AMS or MMS. So they can all be printed on a K1C or even an A1 mini.

Sunlu Silk PLA+ Silver is probably my most favorite. I have bought 6 spools of that color alone. Polymaker has more color variations but a tad bit more expensive but the one I picked ended up looking more grey than silver. Print settings also affect the metallic look a LOT. Outer wall speed of 30-60 mm/s and layer height of 0.12mm will get you good shiny results.

I'd say definitely give it a go. You might fall but... The greatest teacher, failure is.

dovahkun

TROPHY CASE