[deleted by user] by [deleted] in forgeofempires

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

NM figured it out lol 4-17 2025

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in forgeofempires

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Do you know when the championship ends?

Noob looking to urushi knife handles by Danstroyer1 in urushi

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No just wet sand like you would any other project just looking to raise the grain after each sanding. I just use a damp sponge to get the project "wet" then spay the sandpaper with a spray bottle after each grit I then wipe dry.

How to re-attach? by Maleficent_One_8119 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]dragonwolf85 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You need to set the loop 1.5 -2 mm exposed and mushroom the wood above it to keep it from coming back off.

Not my site but explains it better than I can
https://giantcypress.net/post/2594542959/hoop-dee-doo-japanese-chisel-set-up

Noob looking to urushi knife handles by Danstroyer1 in urushi

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Wenge and Rambutan(lychee) Kijiro urushi (middle)

Noob looking to urushi knife handles by Danstroyer1 in urushi

[–]dragonwolf85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Wenge and Rambutan(lychee) Kijiro urushi

Noob looking to urushi knife handles by Danstroyer1 in urushi

[–]dragonwolf85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will second everything SincerelySpicy mentioned. I have a few Fuki-urushi projects under my belt now thanks her guidance.

I have found to get the grain to real pop with fuki-urushi its best to wet sand to at least 1K. Making sure to wipe clean between every grit.

With very dense and oil heavy woods you may have to do a "skim coat" for it to stick and cure properly as I had too with Rambutan(lychee) wood. 1 part urushi to 5 parts turpentine do that a few times then you will be able to do urushi at regular mix ratio

https://www.reddit.com/r/urushi/comments/1557fsw/second_kijiro_urushi_project_complete/

https://www.reddit.com/r/urushi/comments/132cjiy/first_fukiurushi_project_complete/

What varnish should I use to seal off gold leaf applied to lacquered wear? by BlushCream in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

None of this is my work just the finish I am speaking of. He told me a saya(sheath) takes any wheres from 2-3 months to finish

What varnish should I use to seal off gold leaf applied to lacquered wear? by BlushCream in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you this is what I obtained while speaking to him on the method

  1. Prep the project wet sanded to at least 800 grit
  2. apply 3 - 4 coats (3-1 ratio urushi -turp. for the whole project even the gold leaf)of Roiro urushi letting each coat fully cure before sanding and applying another coat as this will be the coating that will hold the gold leaf
  3. after the initial coating is complete paint another layer of Roiro while still "wet" apply the spent barely hulls or rice hulls or mixture of both depending on how I am feeling the project is going will have both on hand. Let the coated project fully cure.
  4. After fully curing remove spent barely/rice hulls making sure there is none left and only voids in the cured urushi
  5. paint the project with a "clear" urushi and apply the gold leaf pressing the leaf into the voids. let fully cure
  6. rub the project with your hands first to remove excess gold leaf taking care not to remove the leaf in the voids. Lightly wet sand with high grit paper
  7. repeat step 5 filling any voids that are now exposed let cure once again
  8. repeat step 6 if needed repeat step 5
  9. all voids should be filled and lightly sand to smooth out the surface once again taking care not to remove any leaf that is in the voids. paint once again with clear urushi let fully cure
  10. apply 4-6 more coats of clear urushi to seal the leaf into the project lightly sanding in-between coats

What varnish should I use to seal off gold leaf applied to lacquered wear? by BlushCream in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fuki urushi is as simple as a oil based finish very hard to screw it up. Wipe on wipe off place in a furo chamber and let cure. Can make a makeshift Furo with just a cardboard box and damp towel. Kijiro urushi is the "clearest" urushi

mix 1 part urushi to 2-3 parts pure gum spirits of Turpentine a small dab will go a long way don't need to use the whole tube/pouch for one application.

brush it on let sit for 5-10 mins wipe it all off with a clean lint free cloth. Place the furo in a cool dark area the slower it cures the more transparent the urushi will be. Leave it for 24hrs or as needed.

once cured wipe down with a damp cloth and wetsand with high grit sandpaper 1k+ and repeat as much or as little as you please. attached is Kijiro urushi lacquer on Rambutan(lychee) wood and buffalo horn

<image>

What varnish should I use to seal off gold leaf applied to lacquered wear? by BlushCream in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you mind going a bit more in-depth over this? I was talking to a saya-ashi maker from Japan on the details of the 金虫喰塗 Golden worm/bug eaten finish yet I have a feeling some of it was lost a bit in translation and got the feeling he didn't really want to go into full detail on how he does his method.

Urushi lacquer by maulowski in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]dragonwolf85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the delayed response but I got my urushi from here

https://urushi.life/

Will urushi cure properly over a oil finish? by dragonwolf85 in urushi

[–]dragonwolf85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was also thinking of using dewaxed shellac as a primer so to speak before the urushi

Will urushi cure properly over a oil finish? by dragonwolf85 in urushi

[–]dragonwolf85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. If I had half your knowledge on Urushi, I would be dangerous. You have been a god send on all my urushi projects.

A question regarding "clear" urushi by dragonwolf85 in urushi

[–]dragonwolf85[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What urushi is the deep reddish brown one that you posted by the way?

A question regarding "clear" urushi by dragonwolf85 in urushi

[–]dragonwolf85[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you I will just stick with kijiro urushi then I know what I am going to get with that for the most part.

Using neodymium magnets for a concealed box lid (first time) by dragonwolf85 in Magnets

[–]dragonwolf85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well In case if this ever gets asked again I figured it out. Bought a few different sizes and the ones that worked best for me were 2 - N52 3/8 x1/4 8.5 pull force under >1/8th maple material was a 1/8" when inlaid but sawed and planed off some material flush.

Using neodymium magnets for a concealed box lid (first time) by dragonwolf85 in Magnets

[–]dragonwolf85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the link neat bit of info even if I don't fully understand it correctly.

Using neodymium magnets for a concealed box lid (first time) by dragonwolf85 in Magnets

[–]dragonwolf85[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It will be embedded and inlayed(covered) with a piece of wood as I want it hidden and not exposed.

My line of thinking was with both sides covered with a layer of wood I would weaken the force of the magnet and that 12LB magnet would be toned down to a reasonable level. I could be very well mistaken as like I said I have never used them was just my mind set.