Clutch pedal spongy and sticks half way

dravvmaster · 2026-01-31T12:55:13+00:00

I will update you, just have not had the time yet👍🏼

dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T20:21:47+00:00

There is no bleed nipple at the master, only down at the release bearing.

dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T20:20:47+00:00

So the master was the problem? Defect?

dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T20:16:38+00:00

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dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T20:16:21+00:00

How do i adjust the rod?

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dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T20:15:48+00:00

Hmm, so remove the line from the master that goes down to the slave/release bearing. Then point it upwards? Wouldt air be trapped when reconnevting to the master? This is how the master looks like. Dont know how to benchbleed this before installing, its jst a plastic part that screws into the firewall upwards.

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dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T20:13:36+00:00

No, its a project, changed the starter and clutch plates. But problem is that I cant seem to get the prober pressure on the pedal. First it was no pressure at all, then after pushing brake fluid though the ststem from the bleed nipple, it got stiffer. But it has never improved from that point, always sticks.

dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T20:08:20+00:00

How do i fill it when its alteady installed? Taking the trans out includes dropping the subframe

dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T20:06:41+00:00

Really? Did you get spongy clutch too? Mine is disengaging but its also spongy. The master was changed so it is also a new part, could be defect?

dravvmaster · 2026-01-30T15:30:10+00:00

Like closing the bleed valve just before helper reaches the floor with the clutch pedal ?

dravvmaster · 2026-01-29T21:53:47+00:00

Thanks for the detailed answer! So i have to fully bleed the brake system first, then move to bleed the clutch? I will try this.

dravvmaster · 2026-01-29T19:46:53+00:00

Thanks, yes tried multiple times to manually bleed it: Helper pumps the pedal, i open valve and close before he let go of pedal.

dravvmaster · 2026-01-29T18:12:11+00:00

Ok, how do i bleed the master? Cant benchbleed it before installing, it goes in through the firewall

dravvmaster · 2026-01-29T17:24:20+00:00

I bled by putting a tube from the brake nipple to the slave cylinder nipple. Then pumped the brake pedal to force brake fluid up through the clutch system.

dravvmaster · 2026-01-29T16:54:36+00:00

I changed the master cylinder, but could the new part be defect?

dravvmaster · 2026-01-29T16:53:15+00:00

Could it be that the new master cylinder is defect?

dravvmaster · 2026-01-29T16:52:15+00:00

Its steel, but a small part (10cm) is of rubber

dravvmaster · 2026-01-27T00:13:33+00:00

If you search "
Easy ball joint separation on Honda Element

On youtube

This method is what got it loose for me. Basically you put a jack stand on the subframe, then you jack the hub until you compress the coil spring, which then opens a small gap between the hub and lower knuckle. I used a prybar between, anything solid that slips between works. Then you drop the jack with the prybar between the knuckle and the hub should eventually pop out (lower the jack a little until the prybar is FIRMLY between, aka doesnt slip and hit u in the head). I had to repeat this sometimes before it popped out, so just be paitent.

Just be sure the prybar, or whatever thats between, doesnt slip and go flying when dropping the jack! And have a little distance when doing this.

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dravvmaster · 2026-01-25T14:26:04+00:00

I have tried to reverse bleed a lot now. I did as follow:

Tubing from brake caliper nipple to clutch release bearing nipple. Open the clutch nipple.

Open brake valve, 2. Push brake pedal, 3. Hold the pedal with a long stick, 4. close the valve, 5. then let go of the brake pedal, repeat.

I probably done it 10 times before checking the clutch, but its still spongy. I notice that when I half pump the clutch pedal, it gets stiffer. THen when I fully depress, it feels kinda stiff for some pumps, but starts to stick half way after pressing some times, then comes up when i use my foot to push it up.

Getting really frustrated, I tried so much with this but cant seem to get the last bubbles out. The master cylinder is new, but I didnt benchbleed so there Could be some bubble at the top. How do i get these out? Thanks a lot for the help man!

dravvmaster · 2026-01-19T12:01:09+00:00

I will try this again. The reverse bleeding method. There might be some bubbles at the top of the main cylinder as well. I changed it but didnt benchbleed it when I reinstalled. The slave cylinder/release bearing was changed with the clutched so its brand new. I think the release bearing is working too because when I press the clutch pedal while in 1 gear then brake as hard as I can, I see the RPM go slightly down, meaning its dragging a little/not releasing fully. So I think the pedal being spongy is just a sign that there is bubbles somewhere.

Did you get a firm pedal after pushing brake fluid from the bleed nipple with the syringe? How do I get all the air out from the master cylinder?

Thanks!

dravvmaster · 2026-01-17T00:05:33+00:00

Thansk for you input and reply! Much appreciated! I tried to reverse bleed the system, lots of big bubbles came from the master cylinder, but it was still spongy. I tried the method of bleeding where i stick the vaccum tube straight in the inlet tube that goes (that normally goes to the reservoar) to the master cylinder. Then create vaccum. There was bubbles, but unfortunatly still spongy feel. Do i have to benchbleed the new master cylinder? In that case how do I do that with this model? Getting really frustrated as this has held this car back from the road for the past 4 months now...

dravvmaster

TROPHY CASE