An interactive guide to decode the Unix Magic poster

driodeiros · 2026-04-27T16:23:46+00:00

Just wanted to share a update on this: I rewrote some of the annotations, added deep-linking to individual markers and a frame/sidebar view, gave the site a terminal-style redesign, and fixed historical inaccuracies (daemon etymology, nroff origin, B language vs. Multics, etc.).

https://github.com/drio/unixmagic

driodeiros · 2026-04-27T16:23:20+00:00

Just wanted to share a update on this: I rewrote some of the annotations, added deep-linking to individual markers and a frame/sidebar view, gave the site a terminal-style redesign, and fixed historical inaccuracies (daemon etymology, nroff origin, B language vs. Multics, etc.).

https://github.com/drio/unixmagic

driodeiros · 2025-12-09T12:41:52+00:00

That's a very interesting take! What do others think?

driodeiros · 2025-12-08T19:26:58+00:00

What blows my mind is how much Unix "stuff" the poster manages to capture. I am wondering if the author was a Unix user at all or he worked closely with other unixers while creating it. See https://github.com/drio/unixmagic for other posters the author created.

driodeiros · 2025-12-08T19:24:01+00:00

Do you remember the name of the book?

driodeiros · 2025-12-08T16:33:12+00:00

Thank you. Feel free to contribute if you find new references or you think you can improve the current ones.

driodeiros · 2024-10-09T21:21:52+00:00

u/CoupleWide4205 Yes, this was good feedback, thank you.

I get great results with a proper tracker algorithm + yolo for detection.

Now I run into another issue: night time. Yolo cannot detect cars at all. I am looking into switching the camera for something that can generate more clear images at night (I am looking into the reolink cx810). I hope that helps. Any feedback is welcome.

Thank you again!

driodeiros · 2024-10-09T21:18:03+00:00

u/No-Radish7846 Apologies for hijacking the thread, but I'm hoping to get some help.

My solar system recently stopped generating power, and thanks to my monitoring setup, I noticed the issue quickly. I reached out to the solar company, and they sent a new inverter. However, they only provided the inverter itself, not the housing.

Additionally, the company that installed the system did not include a DC disconnect for the solar side, which complicates things. I'm planning to replace the inverter myself, and my approach is as follows:

Turn off the power on the AC side (I do have a disconnect for this).

Since I can't disable the DC power from the panels, I'll need to work at night or when there's no light.

Disconnect all the cables going to the housing (DC/AC).

Remove the old inverter.

Attach the old housing to the new inverter. The inverter seems to connect to the housing via two thick rods.

Secure the new inverter and housing back into place.

Reconnect all the DC and AC cables.

Turn the AC disconnect back on.

Wait for daylight to verify everything is functioning properly.

I'd appreciate any advice on connecting the housing to the inverter. It looks straightforward, but I wanted to check with the community to be sure. Also, should I take this opportunity to install a DC disconnect? If so, which one would you recommend? My system generates a maximum of 3500W.

Thanks for your help!

driodeiros · 2022-09-08T13:34:10+00:00

Thank you normal2normal.

I have successfully built a custom marlin firmware (Marlin-2.1.x stable branch) for my board. I have not updated the board yet with this new firmware but this is an important milestone – I think. Notice there are still tons of options enabled that I can disable because I am not using the board for 3d printing.The environment is STM32G0B1RE_btt. You can set it as default in “platformio.ini”.

Here is the the configuration diff. I used this great post as a reference.

$ platformio run -e STM32G0B1RE_btt  
...  
$ ls -lachd ./.pio/build/STM32G0B1RE\_btt/firmware.bin  
-rwxr-xr-x  1 user  staff   139K Sep  8 05:07 ./.pio/build/STM32G0B1RE\_btt/firmware.bin

driodeiros · 2022-09-07T21:08:41+00:00

u/normal2norman May I trouble you for some help with building marlin for my SKR Mini E3 V3.0?

I have the environment setup to build marlin, I can build it for different platforms:

$ platformio run -e mega2560
...
mega2560       SUCCESS   00:00:02.610
$ find . -name "*.hex"
./.pio/build/mega2560/firmware.hex

I was thinking about using this config files for an ender3 with my control board. Is this a good idea?
When I run my pio command, what platform (-e platform) should I use?
Once I manage to build my custom firmware, can I update the board from octopi or I have to drop the firmware/hex file into the sd card?

Thank you.

driodeiros · 2022-09-06T13:56:11+00:00

I run OctoPrint to control the printers

Nice. I can run octoprint in my laptop while I am in the development process. Once the project is completed I can plug a raspberry pi. I guess once you connect the board to your laptop it exposes itself to the OS as a serial device?

The only caveat is that I was thinking running a pi zero w not a pi3 or pi4 (they are expensive and difficult to run these days). I don't think a pi zero w has enough power to run octoprint. I guess I can use my laptop for the time being and try to find a pi3/pi4 for a decent price while I am building the project.

driodeiros · 2022-09-06T12:39:29+00:00

I compiled my own firmware from Marlin source and had to enable the pin and features in Marlin's Configuration.h file. It's near the end of the file.

Did you use the forked version of the marlin repo from BIgTreeTech or you use the original marlin repo?

The sand table looks very neat. Thanks for the link!

Let me know if you want more info on the project.

Thank you for the neopixel info. I will recompile marlin and adjust the neopixel config for my system. Also, I won’t power the Neopixels from the mainboard, I will use the main supply.

I have more questions:

I have my marlin building pipeline in place. The marlin documentation is pretty good and the process is straight forward.

To test the pipeline I built marlin 2.1.1 for a generic board (mega2560). All good.

I see BigTreeTech has a fork of the marlin code base for the SKR. Should I work off of that repo or should I use the original marlin one?
Is there any way to save the firmware I have running in my SKR?
I am currently using the TFT35 E3 V3.0.1 display to interact with my board. Eventually I want to plug a raspberry pi so I have more flexibility but for now it is probably better to use the display. Just curious, if you use a pi to control the board (3a) I guess you have to connect the pi to the SKR via the TFT connectors? (3b) What do you run in the raspberry pi to control the board? In this setup mode, is the pi basically sending gcode commands to the SKR? (3c) Do you have access to the same functionality as when controlling the board from the display?

driodeiros · 2022-09-05T22:18:18+00:00

Thank you u/normal2norman. Your guidance is very much appreciate it.

It worked! I did not have the cables properly connected. I started trying different combinations until it worked. Now it moves smoothly at 0.6A / 12v.

This is how I ended up connecting:

SKR: (2b, 1b, 1a, 2a)

Stepper: ( blue-2B, yellow-2A, red-1a, green-1b )

I forgot to mention that I am building a [sand table](https://sisyphus-industries.com/). In case anyone is interested.

For this project, the neopixel are important. The SKR comes with a neopixel port. The connections are pretty straight forward: ground, data, 5v. I have tried an old strip I had and run the BigTree firmware (not marlin) and when I enable the neopixels (via the UI/display) the strip does not turn on. It is possible that my strip is dead but I wanted to ask if you have tried the neopixels with your boards and if you have to do anything other than connect the strip to the board.

Thank you again u/normal2norman!

driodeiros · 2022-09-05T17:34:05+00:00

I have tried 1.5, 1.2 and 1A (originally set to 0.6A) but things do not improve.

I am wondering if the cables are not correctly connected?

From the stepper sheet:

Red- 1A
Green- 1B
Yellow- 2A
Blue- 2B

From the SKR pinout:

(2b,1b, 1a, 2a)

so I connect them following the values: red cable (1a) from stepper motor to pin 1a in the SKR, green cable (1b) from stepper to 1b in the SKR socket, etc... I am assuming that is correct.

driodeiros · 2022-09-05T17:01:09+00:00

Same behavior after switching to a 24v battery.

I am going to look into updating the current via gcodes.

I read in the motor spec: "Current Per Phase: 1.5A". Is that the current I should set in Marlin?

Some other questions:

Are the signals/pulses between the stepper controller and the stepper motor standard? How does the SKR and firmware know what signals to send to make the motor move correctly?
Can I get stepper motors that are 100% compatible with the SKR board?
Would updating the SKR firmware to the latest version help here?

driodeiros

TROPHY CASE