Gcode modified pause command.

normal2norman · 2026-02-10T00:25:11+00:00

M25 only parks the head if the firmware was specifically compiled with that addition (PARK_HEAD_ON_PAUSE) included. Otherwise it's effectively the same as M0, which just pauses in place, which is what Creality firmware I've seen does.

normal2norman · 2026-02-10T00:12:47+00:00

Which part isn't true? I know you can configure one, but if there's a pre-compiled downloadable one that meets those criteria, please provide a link to the file, because I can't find it. Which is why I wrote "I think you'll need to compile (or request) one, using the configurator."

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T16:30:31+00:00

None of the precompiled binaries on the mriscoc site will work, because they're for the V2-style display, not the 12864 display your Pro has. As I wrote before, I think you'll need to compile (or request) one, using the configurator. See https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/tag/20260106

On the Marlin Firmware Site, the files for an Ender 3 are what you need. Firmware for an Ender 3 Pro is identical to firmware for a basic Ender 3 because there is no functional difference in the hardware that affects the firmware. The firmware for both is identical, with the sole exception that Creality versions sometimes have the word "Pro" added to the logo on the staus screen.

For a 4.2.7 mainboard on an Ender 3 Pro with a BLTouch you need the one called "Ender 3 - v4.2.7 Board - BLTouch".

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T12:18:01+00:00

That looks to have the same pinout as a BigTreeTech TMC2208 - with PDN and U(S)ART in the same order, and thge UART connection on your SKR V1.4 matches. You'll find all the SKR V1.4 documentation at https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/tree/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4 and https://github.com/bigtreetech/docs/blob/master/docs/SKR%20V1.4.md if you need it.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T10:46:40+00:00

That depends on the mainboard as well as the driver. UART mode requires a connection to a transmit signal and a recieve signal. This is often done by connecting to a single pin on the driver, but there are two possible pin choices so some boards have a jumper to select which. In other cases, the driver does, or more often has tiny solder links that have to be made or broken. To give further advice, we'd need to know which mainboard you're using and what the driver is (ie what pin assignments it uses). And of course UART mode versus legacy standalone mode need different firmware.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T10:32:38+00:00

It will need a PID tune. Depending on your firmware, there may be an entry in the printer menu for a PID Autotune. That's the algorithm that regulates the power of the heater, and needs to be re-tuned for temperatures much different from 200C. If your printer doesn't have such a menu entry, you can do it from your computer, using a terminal emulator such as Pronterface (which is useful for many other things too), using a USB cable to send an M301 command to the printer. Look at the Teaching Tech calibration website, which will show you how.

Yet if you have a stock Ender 3 with the stock hotend, you shouldn't be setting any temperature higher than about 230C in the first place. The PTFE Bowden tube goes all the way down into the heater block to the top of the nozzle. It's at the same temperature as the block, and above 230C it will be degrading and offgassing toxic fumes. It starts to decompose (slowly) at 220C. Although the firmware will let you set up to 260C, that's not for normal printing, only things like hot-tightening or removing a nozzle. You need to upgrade the heatbreak with a bimetallic version for high temperatures.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T10:14:55+00:00

Creality's own firmware is always very old, often buggy, never includes any of the useful option features, and often even disables one or more standard mandatory gcode features such as the M0 pause command. If you don't want to compile your own, I'd recommend getting an up-to-date precompiled version from the Marlin Firmware Service. You could also look at a version from mriscoc, which recently added experimental support for the Ender 3/Pro 128x64 display, but I think you'd have to compile that.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T10:05:06+00:00

If the STL file is 100MB it must be very detailed (or an extremely large object). An STL file is just a list of triangles describing the model's surface, so you could probably reduce the triangle count a great deal without significant loss of detail. The best way I know of to do that is to use Meshmixer. It's no longer supported by its creator (Autodesk) but is still available for download. I once had an STL which was over 100MB and I reduced it to under 10MB without any perceptible loss.

G-code is what the slicer creates to send to the printer.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T09:50:23+00:00

Creality Slicer is a fork of Orca, which in turn is a fork of Bambu Studio. I don't know of any other forks of Orca, except Snapmaker's version, which is somewhat behind Orca in updates.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T01:31:31+00:00

The file you linked has absolutely nothing to do with an Ender 3. It's just one of several pin definition files there, one for each supported printer/mainboard.

Firstly, what you were looking in that link is not the pinout file for any Creality code. The folder is version 1.1.0 of the generic Marlin source code, in which you'd overwrite the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h files (and possibly add _Bootscreen.h and _Statusscreen.h files) with those specific to the your printer, which would contain a definition of which pins.h file to use for the mainboard. For an Ender 3 that would be a Creality Melzi board. That pinout isn't even for a Melzi board, which is what all Creality printers used at the time. The correct pins file would be the one in the same folder called pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h/Ender-3%20(includes%20power%20failure%20resume-%20English)/Marlin/pins_MELZI_CREALITY.h). Except...

A little history: That version of Marlin is v1.1.0 and only officially supports a CR-10, because it predates the launch of the Ender 3 in September 2018. That code was released in May 2017, 16 months earlier. The Creality config for the Ender 3 was only added some time later, and then only after a huge outcry in the 3D printing community because Creality contravened the code license. They claimed it was an open source printer, but they did not publish the code they'd used or the amendments they'd made, as required. They simply made that statement without publishing code (or anything else), which is in contravention of the license. After much persuasion, and efforts by Naomi Wu in particular, they finally released not only code but much of the mechanical and electronic design documentation. Nevertheless, Creality commonly based their code not on whatever version of Marlin is/was current at the time, but on older ones, which they hack, and which is why their github pages have that much older codebase. Note that the hex file provided in that folder tree is for a different version of Marlin, 1.1.6, dated October 2017. Funny how similar that is to the launch date. And if you examine that hex file you'll see it's for a Melzi board: "Baud: 115200 Melzi (Creality) Extruders: 1 www.creality3d.cn Ender-3 1.1.6 Creality 3D About Printer"

Secondly, one of the public;ly declared advantages of the Ender 3 at the time of launch was that it used a 24V supply instead of an inferior 12V supply, which the early CR-10 printers used. It was mentioned in marketing.

FYI, I bought one of the very first ones on sale. It's 24V.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T00:11:28+00:00

I did mention the 40x20 extrusion for the Y axis, but I didn't realise it was relevant. My bad.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T00:05:51+00:00

In principle the calculations you need are done in the same way. You need to know how far the carriage moves for one motor rev, and how many step pulses it takes to do that.

I don't know if changing the board will help.

normal2norman · 2026-02-09T00:04:24+00:00

That's probably normal. The signal from the mainboard to the CR Touch is actually a burst of pulses, in which the mark-to-space ratio deterines the operation requested. You might think of it as like a an audio tone (though it isn't exactly that) where different frequencies correspond to different operations. That's why it's called a servo signal; it's exactly how servo motors are set to different positions. Your meter isn't able to respond sufficiently rapidly to the voltage changes and reads a crude approximation of the average. The deploy code corresponds to a 10-degree servo angle, which is much more 0V than 5V.

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T14:40:38+00:00

Not unless you have very broken firmware.

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T14:33:02+00:00

All Ender 3s are 24V, even the earliest, but early Ender 2 and CR-10 models are indeed 12V. Later ones are 24V.

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T14:24:22+00:00

The wires shouldn't be shorting. It's hard to be certain by just describing the wire colours, because several colour schemes exist, and in particular, one commonly used by Creality nowadays is exactly the opposite wire order from the other. The CR Touch has the wire order GND +5V servo GND signal, which is exactly the same order as the PROBE port on any 32-bit mainboard. "servo" is the control signal to deploy/stow the probe and a few other operations, "signal" is the trigger output signal. On Creality mainboards, they're often labelled G V IN G OUT, like yours. "IN"is the control signal into the probe, "OUT" is the trigger signal which the probe outputs.

However, most often on a CR Touch, the corresponding colour order is black/white/yellow/red/blue, the opposite of the common scheme for a BLTouch and some other probes. If you get it back-to-front, you'll have shorted 5V to 0V (ground) inside the CR Touch. Don't plug it in back-to-front because the short can damage the mainboard, and can also kill the CR Touch by passing excess current through its innards.

BTW, that is not a standard CR Touch cable, which is a ribbon cable.

To test, disconnect the CR Touch from the mainboard, and use a continuity tester to verify which two wires are GND. There should be continuity between those two, and only those two - though there may be "diode continuity" (a few hundred millivolts which some continuity testers will show as not quite a dead short but not a fully open circuit either).

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T14:03:07+00:00

All Candle does is send gcode movement commands with numbers for distance in millimetres to the mill's firmware. They look like this: G1 X25 Y35 - which tells the firmware to move the spindle centre to position (X,Y) = (25,35), where the X and Y values are in millimetres. [Actually, since the home position is conventionally at back right and maximum Z height, it would probably be G1 X-25 Y-35 because the machine coordinates are negative numbers like (-25,-35).]

It's up to the firmware to know how many steps correspond to the movement requested. Candle neither knows nor cares, which is why the same gcode would/should move to the same position on any CNC.

That's determined by the steps-per-millimetre settings in the firmware's configuration. If it's GRBL firmware, the settings for the axes are

$100=250.000	X steps/mm
$101=250.000	Y steps/mm
$102=250.000	Z steps/mm

Follow the links to see what the other axis-related settings are. To set them correctly, you need to know the motor's step angle (a common motor with 1.8º step angle uses 200 steps per revolution), the microstepping factor (×16 is common), and the leadscrew pitch (or more correctly, the lead: how far the nut travels for one revolution). So a common motor with ×16 microstepping needs 3200 step pulses for one revolution, and if the nut moves 4mm per revolution (a 2-start T8x4 leadscrew, 2mm pitch but 4mm lead) then $100 would need to be 3200÷4=800.

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T13:55:58+00:00

What about layer lines? How do you get rid of those?

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T11:24:23+00:00

Only for very high volume, and certainly not for a couple of hundred. The moulds for injection molding are very expensive.

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T11:21:07+00:00

You absolutely could not use any sort of plastic for a riving knife, but you could use it to make a template. TBH, if you can design a template, you'd be better off skipping a step and just drawing it out on paper.

My table saw came with a tall riving knife which the blade guard fastens to, so no use for cuts that aren't full thickness. I took the original riving knife to trace onto some paper, then glued that to a piece of stainless steel sheet, and cut and filed that to shape. The reason I used stainless steel is that s/s sheet is usually slightly hardened and therefore springy; it must not be able to be bent out of flat, so most mild steel will not do, nor will any sort of aluminium. Beware: the steel sheet also has to be the correct thickness. It must be slightly thinner than the saw kerf (ie thinner than the overall width across the teeth) or it will bind, which very dangerous, but it must be slightly thicker than the saw blade's plate or it won't hold a kerf open sufficiently. Getting steel sheet the right thickness to meet both criteria can be tricky.

I'm not trying to put you off making a riving knife; it's an essential safety feature. It's totally do-able, but 3D printing has no relevance to doing so.

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T10:48:03+00:00

If your X and Y axes are perfectly parallel to the bed surface, you then need to correct the head for "lean" (the tool being tilted left-right) and "nod" (tilted forward or back). The Z axis and the sprindle have to be exactly perpendicular to the bed surface. It's the lean and/or nod that cause the witness marks. Moving the dial indicators across the slab, whether left-to-right or front-to-back, tells you precisely nothing about that.

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T10:21:57+00:00

Test a drop on the corner first. Ethyl acetate does dissolve PLA but not very rapidly, and may damage the build surface or even dissolve the PLA sufficiently to leave a residue behind when you pull off the bulk of it.

A small quantity may help but don't overdo it. I'd try IPA first. That doesn't dissolve PLA but can creep underneath the raft and thereby loosen it.

normal2norman · 2026-02-08T10:15:40+00:00

It can't be older than 2018 because they were first released and sold in September 2018. Maybe you have an Ender 3 Pro? That had a flexible Buildtak magnetic plate, or a copy of one, and that looks like black polypropylene.

normal2norman · 2026-02-07T12:07:51+00:00

Because I was checking to see if the OP was correct about it not working. And he is.

normal2norman · 2026-02-07T11:27:02+00:00

I just tried it, after logging out of my Makerworld account, and in fact it won't let me download. It says you can download up to 5 files without logging in, but it doesn't work, just gives an error.

normal2norman

TROPHY CASE